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Engine ticking - what's normal and what's not?

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    Engine ticking - what's normal and what's not?

    I picked up an engine tick somewhat recently very similar to the link I posted, mine sounds nearly identical. It is most pronounced when heard from the passenger wheel well.

    I recently did a full beisan overhaul (execpt the S65 diaphragms) and a valve adjustment as well.

    It may have nothing to do with the recent service or maybe I didn't adjust a valve correctly. I found two valves that were too tight on intake side, cylinders 1 & 6, so two shims were replaced.

    I hate to post about engine tick as it so often discussed everywhere but it has definitely gotten more pronounced after my last service, might have to re-check my valve job.

    Sounds like this, not my car.

    Last edited by Cubieman; 05-20-2021, 07:51 PM. Reason: Found a better video
    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
    Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
    Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

    OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
    RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

    2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
    Instagram

    #2
    Could be some valves are out of spec? It's purely speculation. I've always had a quiet valvetrain. I only hear the injectors ticking away. However, since taking ownership (6+ years), the motor has always had (and still has after a full rebuild) a loud tick / knock from the bottom only for the first ~60 seconds whilst the motor is bone cold. NFI what it is. Goes away when at operating temp.

    Comment


      #3
      In the video the tick noise rate is too fast for one or 2 valves with too much lash. One valve noise should be much slower, half slower.
      How tight were #1 and 6? Zero or less than 0.005"?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by sapote View Post
        How tight were #1 and 6? Zero or less than 0.005"?
        I used .007" as a GO gauge and .009" as NO GO on intake side.

        Both cyl. 1 &6 I could not get a .007" to fit, a .006" fit just barely so the gap was not less than .005".
        2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
        Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
        Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

        OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
        RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

        2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
        Instagram

        Comment


          #5
          I had the same “issue”. After adjusting my valves I got a tick, but it is slow and not at a constant rate, some of my exhaust valves were set at 0.008, and it was quite before. I will check again when I replace the VANOS disc.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by maupineda View Post
            some of my exhaust valves were set at 0.008, and it was quite before. I will check again when I replace the VANOS disc.
            0.008 is tight and should not tick, as the Min is 0.011 for EX.

            Comment


              #7
              Could the Vanos cup springs/plates cause this sort of a noise? I know that installing the S62 springs/plates is part of the Beisan "anti-rattle" procedure as well the splined shafts internals. The S62 springs are definitely thicker as compared to S54.

              I originally put in the S62 plates, then after my vanos issue I took them out, so currently I have the stock S54 cup springs/plates back in place so that is likely not the cause as I don't seem to remember this "tick" noise before my vanos job/valve adjustment.

              I may open it up and re-check valves and maybe install the S62 springs, I want to improve my timing as (-.4°IN /3.8° EX of adaptation) if possible but REALLY don't want to do that again so soon.
              I can't believe it is so far of on the EX cam when the timing bridge was dead nuts flat on the head.
              My previous timing job had the bridge with a ~.7mm gap on IN side when timing the EX cam and that ended up better with 2.4° adaptation compared to dead nuts flat bridge with 3.8° now. Timing eludes me I guess.

              2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
              Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
              Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

              OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
              RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

              2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
              Instagram

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                Could the Vanos cup springs/plates cause this sort of a noise? I know that installing the S62 springs/plates is part of the Beisan "anti-rattle" procedure as well the splined shafts internals. The S62 springs are definitely thicker as compared to S54.

                I originally put in the S62 plates, then after my vanos issue I took them out, so currently I have the stock S54 cup springs/plates back in place so that is likely not the cause as I don't seem to remember this "tick" noise before my vanos job/valve adjustment.

                I may open it up and re-check valves and maybe install the S62 springs, I want to improve my timing as (-.4°IN /3.8° EX of adaptation) if possible but REALLY don't want to do that again so soon.
                I can't believe it is so far of on the EX cam when the timing bridge was dead nuts flat on the head.
                My previous timing job had the bridge with a ~.7mm gap on IN side when timing the EX cam and that ended up better with 2.4° adaptation compared to dead nuts flat bridge with 3.8° now. Timing eludes me I guess.
                Can you take a video of the tick noise on your S54? You are going to drive yourself nuts or burn yourself out disassembling things over and over again. If anything, one valve lash is slightly loose, but not the end of the world. If it is a mild tick noise, probably could leave it till the next valve adjustment.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                  I may open it up and re-check valves and maybe install the S62 springs, I want to improve my timing as (-.4°IN /3.8° EX of adaptation) if possible
                  3.8* off is OK and I wouldn't waste the time for perfect it.
                  The S62 spring or not is not the cause of the ticking noise. especially happened at idle. The stock is weaker but it does its job of anti-rattle. This ticking is not vanos rattling. You could disable the vanos and see if the noise change: disconnect the solenoid cable then start the engine.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                    Can you take a video of the tick noise on your S54? You are going to drive yourself nuts or burn yourself out disassembling things over and over again. If anything, one valve lash is slightly loose, but not the end of the world. If it is a mild tick noise, probably could leave it till the next valve adjustment.


                    I don't have the best memory but I want to say this developed after my vanos/valve job in which I loosened up 2 valves. It's just annoying more than anything.
                    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                    Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                    Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                    OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                    RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                    2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                    Instagram

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Cubieman View Post



                      I don't have the best memory but I want to say this developed after my vanos/valve job in which I loosened up 2 valves. It's just annoying more than anything.
                      Sounds very normal.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Yea S54s are noisy. Sounds totally fine
                        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                        Comment


                          #13
                          That video doesn't really illustrate the ticking as well I thought. I'm just not going to worry about it, the engine used to run without whatever this ticking is but I understand these engines are never very quite.
                          2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                          Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                          Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                          OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                          RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                          2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                          Instagram

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Cubieman View Post



                            I don't have the best memory but I want to say this developed after my vanos/valve job in which I loosened up 2 valves. It's just annoying more than anything.
                            Concur, normal.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Cubieman View Post



                              I don't have the best memory but I want to say this developed after my vanos/valve job in which I loosened up 2 valves. It's just annoying more than anything.
                              What did you get it done? I have similar issue on my Z4M

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