Two versions of Diff?

[sapote]

The Torsen (helical gears) LSD has low locking capacity compared to clutch type.

[And1m3]

The Torsen (helical gears) LSD has low locking capacity compared to clutch type.

I think you guys are back in 90s when quaife had 3.4:1 torsen.....they had torsen diffs today that is 14:1 for drift...anyway stay with the gkn then is better for road

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[sapote]

I think you guys are back in 90s when quaife had 3.4:1 torsen.....they had torsen diffs today that is 14:1 for drift...anyway stay with the gkn then is better for road

Any Torsen that don't include a preload clutch will spin like an open Diff when the inner wheel is off the road on a fast corner, because:

The outer wheel receives a net torque = traction of inner wheel x torque Bias Ratio = zero x 14:1 = zero

[sapote]

As mentioned before, to adjust the output flanges backlash for V2, shims should be added to both side-gears (driving the output flanges) because the spider rods are not floating as in a V1 diff. I can understand why Racing Diff added only one Belleville shim to the short output flange's side-gear, but I don't think it is correct for V2 as Racing Diff did this in their video. The Belleville shim on the left side side-gear cannot reduce the backlash on the right side side-gear with the fixed spider rods in between.

[Cubieman]

It appears I received a V2 diff. as "402" is on the left and that OPF has a but more play, time to start reading up!

[bigjae46]

It appears I received a V2 diff. as "402" is on the left and that OPF has a but more play, time to start reading up!

LMK if you need help opening the V2 unit.

[Cubieman]

LMK if you need help opening the V2 unit.

Is this the (or one of) required tool for a V2?

[sapote]

Yeah, 402 made by LEVIS
"Is this the (or one of) required tool for a V2?"
Yes. When I make my own tool I will use the Allen screw heads to turn the ring, not the turned down shaft of the screws. I'm asking myself why not as the smooth screw head is stronger than the protruding shank, and no need to machine the threads off the shank.

[Cubieman]

This is when I wish I had metal fabrication equipment so I could make simple tools like the opener and breakaway torque measurement tool.

My step dad has a welder/plasma cutter/drill press etc., may try to fabricate my own stuff instead of paying hundreds of dollars.

Trying to think of any stuff I could buy locally and make the opening tool with just basic tools..

[bigjae46]

Is this the (or one of) required tool for a V2?

Yes. I tried a large vise but that didn't work so great. The end cap is a left-hand thread, that's a minor detail to be aware of...lol...don't ask. I have a setup so that the diff is bolted down and makes removal and installation easier. I don't see how you can hold it in a vise and do the break in rotation on the axle stubs.

Keep in mind that it could take a couple of times to get the static preload torque on it correct.

[sapote]

This is when I wish I had metal fabrication equipment so I could make simple tools like the opener and breakaway torque measurement tool.

My step dad has a welder/plasma cutter/drill press etc., may try to fabricate my own stuff instead of paying hundreds of dollars.

Trying to think of any stuff I could buy locally and make the opening tool with just basic tools..

I think you could make the tools for V2 LSD using standard home tools:
1. For the breakaway torque measurement: Get a Unistrut bar with slotted holes from HD (I used it to lock flywheel also) then bolted the bar to the #401 output flange, insert the splined end into the clutch stack then crank it away. How do you read the torque on the Unistrut? Get a hook scale with 15Kg/30lbs max range ((ask the neighbor pig famer as he sure has one to weight his hogs), hook the scale to the end of the 1meter long Unistrut bar (measure from splined shaft center to the hooked point), then you just pull at 90* to the bar either direction, and the clutch should breakaway at 10Kg or 100Newtons, then you have the desired 100Nm.
2. To hold the carrier from moving, bolt it down on your shiny Mahogany hardwood floor through 2 or 3 holes of the ring gear mounting holes.
3. To make the lock-ring tool: get a 5mm thick steel plate, draw a big circle with diameter of the lock-ring ID, then divide the circle into 6 perfectly equal arcs. Drill and tap threads for the 6 Allen screws. You can attach a handle to the plate or cut the plate for a handle. You somehow need to cut the center hole to clear the bearing (drill some big holes then hacksaw it out). For the Allen screws, measure the lock ring half moon diameter then get some screws that the head just snugly fit.

For the dowel-pin ball, don't drill but use the stone wheel from Dremel to clean up the edge and it should come out.

Trick: to easily loosen the locking ring, use a cylinder liner or a used canon shell (ask Ukrainian solders) that fit in the gap between the bearing OD and the lock ring ID, then press the steel disk down to unload the ring then the ring should be easily turn CW to loosen. So I think instead of messing up your Mahogany floor, I would set the carrier on the floor press (cheap from HF), bolt it down or using 2 big rods to lock it from turning, then press down the clutch disk enough to unload the ring, then it should turn easy. (Also doing this way when torqueing up the ring to get 100Nm breakaway as if the clutch stack is loading the ring, it is very hard to turn it.)
But when measuring the 100Nm breakaway torque, you probably need to bolt the carrier down on your Mahogany floor.

[L0okitzRaj]

Can we steal the lsd pack from an e90 and swap it into our v1 case? ...with the appropriate shimming/backlash/etc

[sapote]

Can we steal the lsd pack from an e90 and swap it into our v1 case? ...with the appropriate shimming/backlash/etc

If the stack gear tooth fit in, then I think you can, with proper shim to set the breakaway torque.

[sapote]

When I remove the Diff to rebuilt, I would just remove the rear cover and leave the front bush bolt attached for support, then remove the output flanges and then the output bearing covers, then carefully roll/lift the LSD carrier straight out, taking care not to let the taper roller bearing hitting the sharp edge of the bearing holes, as this can make a dent and damage the bearing. This way I don't have to deal removing the whole diff which is about 50 to 60LBS I think.

Before this, I check the pinion/ring gear mesh, by brushing on the convex side of 6 ring teeth with white hand lotion, then turn the pinion to turn the output flanges forward one turn, then check the contact pattern, just to make sure if the carrier need to be shimmed more to the left or right.

[bigjae46]

50-60lbs? Its more like 75lbs. Its awkward because the back half is so heavy.

You don't need to check the gear pattern since you're not changing anything unless you think there is an issue which would be indicated by inspecting the ring gear teeth first.