Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Why M3 LSD clunk?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Why M3 LSD clunk?

    We all have heard the infamous M3 clunk, but there are a few reasons why the rear end clunk: loose diff mounting bolts, excessive drive shaft plays, torn subframe mounting floor, or just the LSD itself.

    This topic is about the LSD clunk. This happened when the clutch stack suddenly slipped causing the spiders to hit the side-gears very hard when we start moving the car from zero.

    There are backlash between side-gears and spider gears, as all diff have and this is normal. In the open-diff, the spider gears drive the side-gears which turn the output flanges. As the tranny clutch is releasing, the drive shaft starts turning and pinion turns the ring gear, and the spiders turn the side-gears without a big clunk noise even though there is a fair amount of backlash between spiders and side-gears. Why? Because the backlash is taken up smoothly by the spiders free movement (no clutch stack) and not a sudden jerk.

    In the LSD diff, things happen differently. Ideally, the clutch stack should not have preload -- slipping freely at the beginning -- and it should be only loaded up whenever the two wheels are at different speed. But the fact is that all M3 LSD have the clutch stack preloaded (jack up the wheels and turning one wheel will turn the other one in the same direction which means clutch is preloaded). What is the negative effect of preloaded clutch? Clunk noise.

    So when the pinion started turning the ring and the carrier housing, which turning the clutch plates (by the outer diameter teeth). The clutch stack inner diameter teeth drive the left output flange splines. So when you started moving the car, the carrier turned the clutch stack which turned the left spline shaft and the left wheel (the right wheel has no power at this time), and the spiders/side-gears do nothing because there is more backlash between spiders and side-gears and so they are not meshed and loaded up. This all depends on how much the clutch stack is preloaded. If it was preloaded enough for the clutch stack to turn the left wheel, then the left wheel is turning by the clutch stack and not by the spiders/side-gear. But when you gave more gas, then the preloaded clutch disks slipped (as the oil pump did not press more on the clutch since no differential in wheel speed). When the clutch disks suddenly slipped, causing the carrier accelerating fast, causing the spiders to hit the side-gears very hard, and the famous clunk noise -- the Big Bang created.

    To fix this factory made clunk noise, the clutch stack has to be shimmed so it just has enough preload but not enough to move the car. When moving from zero, the correctly shimmed clutch stack should slip smoothly to allow the spiders mesh with the side-gears and drive them from the get-go.

    Edited: This discussion is only for most of the M3 with stock GKN version V1. Some 2006 cars have the V2 version LSD which is quite different than V1.
    Last edited by sapote; 08-25-2023, 10:28 PM.

    #2
    Here was the cause of my clunk

    Took it all apart and found this surprise




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Stack View Post
      Here was the cause of my clunk

      Took it all apart and found this surprise
      This amount of backlash between side-gear and spiders is normal for most diff, including BMW open diff, so why they don't have the M3 clunk? As I wrote, this backlash is normal, but the preloaded clutch stack causing the sudden slip and the gears hit hard.

      Comment


        #4
        This is important to understand the clunk: before clunked, the right wheel had no torque and just moving along with the car; after the clunk, both wheels had same torque.

        Comment


          #5
          I just read this analysis on the M3 clunk by Racing Diffs -- it's all BS.

          Here is what they say: "From our experience, the problem starts after 60k km from new.
          When clutch plates break in from new, they loose certain amount of thickness. So the preload drops and diff starts to slip a bit. Because of that, you have increased spinning of spider gears. In the ledge of right spider gear there is a shim on which spider gear rotates. This shim wears out quickly and spider gear gets excessive amount of free play.​"

          Shims with excessive wear in just 60km brand new cars?

          Below are the pics of the said shim and the bearing side of the corresponding side-gear from my old Diff to show the wear on the parts is minimal -- barely and not even uniformly over the entire surface of the shim or the side gear.

          The spiders and side-gears needs backlash or plays even new from factory, because the pump pushes the piston out to press on the clutch pack but also on the side-gear to spiders. This is why taking out all the plays will lead to damaging the gears when the piston is pushed out with one wheel spinning.

          For me, the root cause of the M clunk is the clutch stack teeth design is too tight with the carrier housing splines and don't have enough backlash to match the spinders/side-gears backlash. GKN engineers made the mistake of designing the clutches with too little backlash to the center splines and the outer carrier splines. They should have the same or more backlash as compared to the side-gears and spiders, and this would cause the carrier torque to always transfer to the side-gears before to the clutch stack.

          The clunk: when we start moving from stop, the carrier torque is transferred to the clutch stack via the outer teeth to the output flange (left for v1 and right for v2), and the spiders/side-gears are floating not carry any torque. When the clutches break loose then the 100Nm or more torque suddenly goes to the spiders, like snapping fingers, causes the clunk. Even for new cars you're lucky if the clunk didn't happen as there is no way to say it should not happen.

          To prevent this, the carrier should transfer the torque to the spiders/side-gears before to the clutch stack, which means the clutch teeth should have more plays.

          I don't have the older ZF Diff to compare, but I think the 4-ear clutches have more backlash than the E46.

          Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0107.jpg Views:	0 Size:	118.4 KB ID:	222565 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0108.jpg Views:	0 Size:	118.4 KB ID:	222566





          https://racingdiffs.com/blogs/news/i...0clunk,starts% 20to%20slip%20a%20bit.


          "Differential clunk, so called M clunk, has become 'something normal' since E46 M3 showed up. To be clear, this is not normal and in this text you will see why. But how did that happen? BMW was always well know for solid drivetrain parts. And in early 2000s they are releasing the highest spec model (E46 M3) with 'factory problem'?

          The thing is, they stopped installing ZF Limited slip differentials and signed the contract with GKN. Before E46 showed up, Limited slip differential (LSD) could be found in other models but M3, M5, etc. For instance, the most E36 and E34 tds models had it as a winter package. But since 2000, you can only find it in M models. Plus it is much worse than previous solutions as almost every LSD has the problem with clunking when engaging into 1st gear, aggressive shifting, slow turns and such.

          How to recognize if your diff has M clunk a.k.a. Free play?

          Lift your car on the jack. Try to move right output flange (for 2006, E92 M3, E60 M5... Left flange). If it has more free play compared to other one, than you have, or will have, M clunk problem. From our experience, the problem starts after 60k km from new. Which means that 99.9% of E46 M3s have this problem nowadays.

          What causes the M clunk?

          When clutch plates break in from new, they loose certain amount of thickness. So the preload drops and diff starts to slip a bit. Because of that, you have increased spinning of spider gears. In the ledge of right spider gear there is a shim on which spider gear rotates. This shim wears out quickly and spider gear gets excessive amount of free play. He is literally floating in the ledge. So when you tense it, he creates clunking noise. Output flange which goes gets large amount of radial free play and in the most cases causes oil leaks on that side of diff."
          Last edited by sapote; 06-20-2023, 04:33 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            If you took out all of the plays on the spiders/side-gear, then the lock up pump cannot push the piston out to lock the clutches up.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by sapote View Post
              If you took out all of the plays on the spiders/side-gear, then the lock up pump cannot push the piston out to lock the clutches up.
              Have you implemented changes to get rid of your clunk? Were they the changes you describe above?

              maw

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by maw1124 View Post

                Have you implemented changes to get rid of your clunk? Were they the changes you describe above?

                maw
                There is no way for me to increase more backlash between the clutch stack and the carrier/output flange splines. So I will add shims between the pump piston and the clutch spline-core to reduce the spiders/side gear backlash but still leave enough for the piston to move and lock the clutches.

                Btw, today my '67 Porsche 912 (first owner bought it on Christmas Eve 1966) with 56 yrs old original nice paint got hit by a F150. We're in a bad traffic jam and finally stopped with the CHP clearing the accident 200' in front, then she changed into my lane and hit it, claimed that her truck is too tall and didn't see my little car.
                Any know a good body/paint shop in Los Angeles area please let me know. I have it for 20 yrs and it hurts.

                Click image for larger version  Name:	rear-view.jpg Views:	0 Size:	137.8 KB ID:	222753 Click image for larger version  Name:	on-fwy.jpg Views:	0 Size:	165.4 KB ID:	222754
                Last edited by sapote; 06-21-2023, 06:30 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Dang bro, what a s**tty situation. She may be telling the truth, but dang. Sorry, just feeling your pain here, I have no suggestion for a shop. Hope you get it sorted properly!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by sapote View Post
                    Btw, today my '67 Porsche 912 (first owner bought it on Christmas Eve 1966) with 56 yrs old original nice paint got hit by a F150. We're in a bad traffic jam and finally stopped with the CHP clearing the accident 200' in front, then she changed into my lane and hit it, claimed that her truck is too tall and didn't see my little car.
                    Any know a good body/paint shop in Los Angeles area please let me know. I have it for 20 yrs and it hurts.
                    Bro, that’s completely fuqqqkkkd up. I was just complaining yesterday about people driving F150s as if they were M3s…

                    maw

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by sapote View Post

                      Btw, today my '67 Porsche 912 (first owner bought it on Christmas Eve 1966) with 56 yrs old original nice paint got hit by a F150. We're in a bad traffic jam and finally stopped with the CHP clearing the accident 200' in front, then she changed into my lane and hit it, claimed that her truck is too tall and didn't see my little car.
                      Any know a good body/paint shop in Los Angeles area please let me know. I have it for 20 yrs and it hurts.

                      Click image for larger version Name:	rear-view.jpg Views:	0 Size:	137.8 KB ID:	222753
                      Sorry this happened man - hate to see it.

                      Kings Auto Body and ABS are great options. Ayed, the owner of Kings, is a fellow M owner / enthusiast and they do great work

                      Last edited by AWE46M3; 06-21-2023, 11:52 PM.
                      '02 ///M3 Alpine White / Cinnamon 6MT

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The only problem with this is how does one match 56 year old paint without it being super obvious? Man....
                        3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

                        Comment


                          #13
                          These enormous trucks and SUVs really are a scourge. I get worried people do not see me when driving smaller, older cars. This just goes to show. It is scary to think how many morons are out driving them.

                          And we pay the gas guzzler tax on sports cars, but trucks and SUVs are exempt.

                          ​​​Glad it wasn't worse.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by oceansize View Post
                            The only problem with this is how does one match 56 year old paint without it being super obvious? Man....
                            And parts... and expertise... I have a friend in Costa Mesa who has one of those old 60's sport Beetles (in white actually, and I think a '67) which IIRC he recently restored. I'll reach out to him and see who he used. I know it's an hour away, but... I would suspect metro LA to have a few knowledgeable shops with all the industry folks who love old sport Beetles.

                            maw

                            EDIT... Robert Kasdan; Strasse Automotive on Ohms Way in Costa Mesa.
                            Last edited by maw1124; 06-22-2023, 04:57 PM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by sapote View Post

                              There is no way for me to increase more backlash between the clutch stack and the carrier/output flange splines. So I will add shims between the pump piston and the clutch spline-core to reduce the spiders/side gear backlash but still leave enough for the piston to move and lock the clutches.

                              Btw, today my '67 Porsche 912 (first owner bought it on Christmas Eve 1966) with 56 yrs old original nice paint got hit by a F150. We're in a bad traffic jam and finally stopped with the CHP clearing the accident 200' in front, then she changed into my lane and hit it, claimed that her truck is too tall and didn't see my little car.
                              Any know a good body/paint shop in Los Angeles area please let me know. I have it for 20 yrs and it hurts.

                              Check out DTM Autobody in El Monte

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X