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  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by ac427 View Post

    Manual. It starts fine but the rattle is there for a few seconds at startup.
    put a pressure gauge on the vanos oil pipe to see the delay from engine running to full operating pressure.

    Leave a comment:


  • ac427
    replied
    Originally posted by sapote View Post

    SMG or manual? SMG tends to take longer to fire up due to the pre-charge SMG pressure condition.
    Manual. It starts fine but the rattle is there for a few seconds at startup.

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  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by ac427 View Post
    Andratch i now have the the 2-3 seconds symptom on start from cold.
    SMG or manual? SMG tends to take longer to fire up due to the pre-charge SMG pressure condition.

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  • ac427
    replied
    Andratch I'm glad to know that your problem is resolved. Sadly, i now have the the 2-3 seconds symptom on start from cold.

    I am wondering why the bearings would have fixed this. Perhaps low initial oil pressure from excessive bearing to crank clearance? I can understand them being the cause of the 2,000RPM sound your heard though.


    I guess the first step is an oil analysis.

    For what it is worth my bearings have done 88k miles since the engine was rebuilt. I believe all OEM parts were used at the time.


    Leave a comment:


  • fattycharged
    replied
    Originally posted by Nikolaid89 View Post
    The shop said they can try to clean the crank and throw in new rod bearings and plastiguage them but there is a risk. What do you guys think?
    I've done this before, it worked until it didn't.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by Nikolaid89 View Post
    The shop said they can try to clean the crank and throw in new rod bearings and plastiguage them but there is a risk. What do you guys think?
    you can't fix the crank with it on the car. jourals needs to be polished mic'd and balanced.

    the crank needs to come out and the mains replaced as well.

    With the damage to the bearings all the oil lines, oil cooler, and oil filter housing replaced to get rid of any metal shavings.

    if they're going to do it right might as well let them? But if they are trying to shortcut it without doing it right i would push back

    Leave a comment:


  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by Nikolaid89 View Post
    The shop said they can try to clean the crank and throw in new rod bearings and plastiguage them but there is a risk. What do you guys think?
    Don't know what clean mean, but the journals must be smooth and polished shiny like a mirror to avoid future damages.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nikolaid89
    replied
    The shop said they can try to clean the crank and throw in new rod bearings and plastiguage them but there is a risk. What do you guys think?

    Leave a comment:


  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by Nikolaid89 View Post
    Just wanted to update this with my issues. I finally got around to getting the oil pan pulled and inspecting the rod bearings and they are completely damaged with damage to the crank as well. The shop said they can try to clean up the crank and put new bearings in but it is a risk that the tolerance will be off. This is my BE Bearings with only 1300 miles on them, completely damaged. The shop said it's some of the worst rod bearing damage they've seen.
    How many miles on these bad new bearings? You have 4 bearings down to copper while Andratch caught it early with only one bearing down to copper. Yours clearance much be wider than his bad clearance, so there was so low oil pressure in those bearings, leading to damaged crank too.

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  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by Andratch View Post
    Even after the car sat for 2 weeks, no noise on startup. So, I still 100% attribute the fix to the bearings/bolts/torques.
    We know chain slack caused rattling noise until the pressurized tensioner push hard on the chain, but I was wondering why the bad BE bearings also caused the similar rattling noise in the first few seconds?
    In your case, the bad new bearings shed their soft layers so fast, and after only 1000 miles or so it was down to the copper layer, and the bearing clearance changed from 0.0015" when new to 0.006", for example. With zero oil pressure at start up the wide clearing of that single bearing caused the rattle until a decent oil pressure built up.

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  • ac427
    replied
    Well hopefully only an engine out

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  • M3LSB.Gab
    replied
    time for a part out !

    Leave a comment:


  • Nikolaid89
    replied
    Just wanted to update this with my issues. I finally got around to getting the oil pan pulled and inspecting the rod bearings and they are completely damaged with damage to the crank as well. The shop said they can try to clean up the crank and put new bearings in but it is a risk that the tolerance will be off. This is my BE Bearings with only 1300 miles on them, completely damaged. The shop said it's some of the worst rod bearing damage they've seen.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • chris719
    replied
    Originally posted by Nikolaid89 View Post
    Update, just got Blackstone Analysis back. Iron is 22, Copper is 42, and Lead is 83. This is 1,300 miles after getting my rod bearings done with BE bearings in December 2024.
    Click image for larger version

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    Very suspicious. I'd probably pull the pan to inspect, sadly.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ramage
    replied
    Originally posted by Nikolaid89 View Post
    Update, just got Blackstone Analysis back. Iron is 22, Copper is 42, and Lead is 83. This is 1,300 miles after getting my rod bearings done with BE bearings in December 2024.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Oil Analysis.png Views:	23 Size:	60.1 KB ID:	313124
    I hate to say it but it is time to get back in there, something is wrong.

    Example:
    I KNOW for sure (I have the evidence) I had a spun bearing on cylinder #5 (caught it after I had already replaced my bearings and put it all back together. Stupid me...) and my car is still doing fine, no particles in my Oil Filter and sacrificial metals are trending down in my Oil Analysis.

    June 20th - 1000 Miles (1600KM) after swapping in new OEM bearings Oil Analysis showed 10 Iron, 19 Lead, and 12 Copper.
    July 11 - 1200 Miles (2000KM I have been driving ALOT) Oil Report is is showing 7 Iron, 5 Lead, and 6 Copper.

    Click image for larger version

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    Leave a comment:

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