OE Strut Brace Install Question

[02_lsb]

I recently swapped out my ACS Strut bar for an OEM one. I lifted the car because I had to do some other things, loosened the three top strut nuts and slowly lowered the struts one-by-one on each side. On each side I have: the camber / caster kit, I don’t know what this next piece is called but it looks like a 3/4 circle (shaped like a letter c) and a strut tower reinforcement plate. I re-assembled everything, hand tightened the strut nuts then lowered the car to assemble the OEM Strut Tower while the car is on the ground.

suspension is: TCK DA.

Observation: The strut bolts do not appear to be protruding enough to thread the nut entirely. I have never had an OEM strut bar on car, for those of you whose cars come with th OEM brace. What did I mess up? Should those nuts go through the strut cutout?

[02_lsb]

Without wrenching down too hard I seem to not be catching a whole lot of threads.

[heinzboehmer]

Here's a picture of my car with stock top mounts. Came from the factory with the brace.

[02_lsb]

Thank you

[Tbonem3]

1. A friend and member here has tck plates/susp and, like you, found the studs to be too short.

2. That said, the conventional wisdom is that you want engagement with an amount of thread at least equal to the diameter of the shank. The OE nuts are twice as long as needed (for thread engagement), so "only" capturing like 60%-75% of the nut's length isn't an issue IMO.

3. However, the nuts are lock nuts, where engagement past the top of the nut is nec. for locking. I don't, and have never had an issue, but you could add some red loctite if you were worried.

[pawelgawel]

based on what you described, you've taken out a lot of the room with the camber plates and strut reinforcement plates... not sure how thick the camber plates are on this, most likely you won't need the reinforcement plates anymore. that should give a thread or 2.

[Tbonem3]

My friend with TCK plates also used the term "reinforcement plate", but he was referring to part of the tck assembly. OP, do you actually have extra reinforcement plates as well? They'd be black I think and about 1/8", and I agree, if you had them, I'd remove them. Aftermarket camber plates from reputable companies provide enough foot print on the under side imo. The poor footprint is above, with the stock strut bat with its 3 little feet which is where a bar from RE, mason or DMG comes into play.

[02_lsb]

Yes. I have these.

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension-Steering/Reinforcements/Front-Strut-Tower-Reinforcement-Plate-E46.html

[Tbonem3]

Ok, then ya, removing them would give you another 1/8" of thread and "free" 1/8" of lowering.

usdmej said that he still uses them with camber plates because he still experienced strut tower cracking. I'd wager that's the strut bar's fault, not the underside where you've got 360 degree contact.

That said, $50 reinforcement is cheaper than a $350 strut bar with better footprint.

I'm not sold that those plates, despite them having a nice big footprint, however. How are they helpful when your camber plates (or even stock top hats) already have a large foot print themselves? Again, I believe the topside is the issue in this case (oe bar's 3 post feet).

[Flat-Six]

I have TCK with his camber plates. My nuts have a long shaft that allows for additional thread engagement underneath.

[jet_dogg]

[02_lsb]

There’s so much “that’s what she said” in this thread it’s NSFW.

[lemoose]

I have TCK with his camber plates. My nuts have a long shaft that allows for additional thread engagement underneath.

Beautiful