Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Removal of 1 header tips?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Removal of 1 header tips?

    Hi all... so apparently I didn't tighten down my cylinder 1 header pipe. All 3 nuts loosened and fell off on a recent drive. I need to remove just the 1 header closer to the front of the engine enough to change out the gaskets. Can this be done? Please dont tell me I need to remove both of them. I have aftermarket status gruppe headers for reference.

    #2
    No, you can't remove just one header flange. But why would you? Just put new nuts on.
    DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
    /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
    More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

    Comment


      #3
      It may be possible to pull it away enough to slip a gasket on with the other attached. But possibly not as well. It will be tight.
      2003.5 Titanium Silver / Black 6M/T (Gone)
      2003.5 Carbon Black / Laguna Seca Blue SMG (Dusted)
      2004 Carbon Black / Black SMG converted to 6M/T(Current)

      Comment


        #4
        I did this too … just cranked them down a little more and didn’t replace the gaskets. All has been well for years now

        Comment


          #5
          Not a tip for header removal, more of a general working on cars tip to prevent this sort of thing in the future. Get a paint pen and get into the habit of using it to mark every nut/bolt that you torque down. It makes it so much harder to forget to torque something, as you've got a visual aid to tell you what you have and haven't torqued.
          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for responses. I am not removing just 1 header flanger flange but the whole header. Wondering if possible to pull the header far away enough from the car without removing the second header. Also... I tried putting new nuts on and calling it a day but I think the gasket is completely blown out. still sounds like crap. Im not sure how they got loose... I triple checked every single nut when assembling this engine... now im nervous lol

            Comment


              #7
              You meant bank 1 not cyl 1? In that case, I *think* you'll be able to do what you want. They may touch, you may even need to persuade it, but I think it should. You may even need to loosen the joint at sect 2.
              DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
              /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
              More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

              Comment


                #8
                Yup! Bank1. Will I need to use my hoist? Hoping I can access everything from the top but I don’t think that’s happening

                Comment


                  #9
                  IIRC on bank one, you can get to all nuts from above.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Header is de -attached. That was easy af. Just need to get your forearms dirty.

                    All can be reached with a ratchet, 3 inch extension, swivel, and 11mm wrench.

                    Be sure to also disconnect both the headers from the sec 1 as you will not be able to swivel them out of the way without doing so.

                    Took about an hour to disconnect them. Changed the gaskets. Now bolting it all back up. Much easier than I expected.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Comes down to toolset. The greater variety of tools, the better chance of getting to all 24 from up top, though I still like to go under for several of them.

                      I use:

                      mainly 3/8" drive w & w/o swivel
                      1/4" drive w & w/o swivel for the tightest spots
                      11mm open end wrench (one side fixed, one side ratcheting)
                      11mm offset box wrench - this one is great for the first few cyl and the one with the hardline in the way (in between 4 & 5 iirc)
                      DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                      /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                      More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                      Comment


                        #12


                        Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
                        getting to all 24
                        T, you recently do a valve adjustment? 😜

                        Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                        Youtube DIYs and more

                        All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                        PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yes
                          DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                          /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                          More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X