No cam tool cam removal

[Icecream]

Finally got around to disassembling my block today and I was attempting to remove the cams without the cam tool per the GAS method (on an M54). However, on the S54 one stud is longer than the other and it poses an issue. As soon as the nut on the short stud is removed, the longer stud looks like it will still be under tension since the valve spring will still be a little compressed and I am concerned it may bend the stud or worse since I have really no idea how much tension is on there. Has anyone done this successfully on the S54. About to just get the tool but the nuts are 95% there and I want to send the parts out next week for cleaning/prep.

[Obioban]

By the time you’re off the short stud, there’s no tension left on the valve spring. It’s fine.

[Icecream]

got it, sure feels like there will be haha.

[Cubieman]

So is this method considered OK? I plan on doing cams at some point and if I can save $800 on the tool that would be a big plus.

[Obioban]

If you don’t screw up, it’s fine.

The tool absolutely makes the process fool proof.

[Icecream]

So is this method considered OK? I plan on doing cams at some point and if I can save $800 on the tool that would be a big plus.

I'll know this evening. From what I have done so far, pretty straight forward, just really seemed like tension wouldn't come off fully before the last nut was removed and I wasn't comfortable with any undue stress on the valve train. I guess worst case you break a cam and have a great excuse to upgrade.

[Bogart79]

I rent the tool out if needed,,,,,,,it’s listed in the tool rental section.


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[stash1]

IDK what the M54 procedure is, but assuming it's similar to an S54, once the motor's been set to TDC...you can remove all of the cam caps on the Intake side, leaving cylinder # 3 in place. Just alternate between the nuts about 1/4 turn each time and you should be fine. On the exhaust side it's cylinder #2. I've done this a couple of times now, and knock on wood, it's worked every time. GL!

[Icecream]

IDK what the M54 procedure is, but assuming it's similar to an S54, once the motor's been set to TDC...you can remove all of the cam caps on the Intake side, leaving cylinder # 3 in place. Just alternate between the nuts about 1/4 turn each time and you should be fine. On the exhaust side it's cylinder #2. I've done this a couple of times now, and knock on wood, it's worked every time. GL!

Pretty much the same. The difference is both studs on the m54 are equal length, that about it. I also allowed two lobes to evenly press on the valves, they should be under a little less tension and maybe make it easier to keep the cam steady while the bolts come out.

[Icecream]

All is good. Tension comes off right at the last couple threads (the nuts are a little deceiving with how deep they are). Very simple procedure tbh.

[enjoy_m3]

Just to add - You slowly loosen each nut so the tension is even throughout the length of the cam, it'll come off. You can back off both nuts until each nut is almost off on both studs. Just as an FYI for others to see. There isn't much tension on the cam when the cap is loose. It won't fly off. Same process with install, slowly add tension on each nut so the tension is even throughout. Don't forget to torque accordingly