Bleeding new slave cyl.

[Cubieman]

Any tips/suggestions on installing/bleeding a new clutch line/slave cylinder?

Should I be worried about the slave cylinder's rod position or just install and power bleed?

[SteelGreyM]

Like doing a caliper. Easy as pie

[Cubieman]

Got the new clutch line/slave cylinder installed and used my vacuum hand pump to pull fluid through the system but the pedal still goes to the floor way too easily.

Is there an advantage to the 2 person method vs. power bleed in terms of getting my clutch pedal firm and totally bled?

[jbfrancis3]

Unbolt it and hold tilted upward so bleeder nipple is up. Give a few taps on the case. Since that’ll occupy both hands do the 2 person method, making sure the assistant doesn’t push the clutch when bleeder is closed.

[Cubieman]

Unbolt it and hold tilted upward so bleeder nipple is up. Give a few taps on the case. Since that’ll occupy both hands do the 2 person method, making sure the assistant doesn’t push the clutch when bleeder is closed.

Have you found that method (removal) to simply be a better way to make sure it's fully bled, or is this kind of a normal deal?

[FBloggs]

In the past , on an e36, I left the bleeder slightly open for a couple of hours and let it gravity bleed.
Other time, I have pushed fluid through it, used a reverse injector, brake fluid pushed through an oil can.
I have walked away from one and left it overnight and it worked fine in the am after the air lock travelled back into the reservoir.
Whatever works.

Don't rule out the clutch master having an issue.

[dukeofchen]

Have you found that method (removal) to simply be a better way to make sure it's fully bled, or is this kind of a normal deal?

If you've already power bled then you could probably firm it up with the method in this video, similar to what jbfrancis suggested but doesn't require a second person to work the pedal.

[jbfrancis3]

Have you found that method (removal) to simply be a better way to make sure it's fully bled, or is this kind of a normal deal?

It was the only way I could clear all the air out and get a proper pedal. Being a small displacement cylinder, its harder to get the trapped air out, similar to a motorcycle caliper.

[Tbonem3]

For install

[Slideways]

Motive Power Bleeder

[Mr.wReckless]

If you've already power bled then you could probably firm it up with the method in this video, similar to what jbfrancis suggested but doesn't require a second person to work the pedal.

This is what I had to do when I did my manual conversion. I couldn't get a proper clutch pedal with a normal install and 2 person bleed procedure with the slave fitted. I'm guessing there's residual air in there that won't naturally find it's way out.

Pushing the rod in with an open bleeder screw was what did the trick for me.

Regards

[Tbonem3]

The clutch is self bleeding. Might get a dead leg from pumping it tho, which is why I posted a pic of something to do to not let so much air in.

[bigjae46]

You need to open the clutch master cylinder while bleeding it by depressing the clutch pedal.

1. Hook up pressure bleeder to brake fluid reservoir and build pressure
2. Depress and hold rod on slave cylinder
3. Open bleeder valve
4. Step on clutch pedal

Clutch bled in about 1 minute.

[Cubieman]

Sorry about the late post, I know you already bought your paint, but this is what I used:

Aotomotive Lighting

Your steps are correct, although, you can save a step by not removing the chrome. If you scuff all the chrome good enough, you won't have any adhesion problems. You also don't have to wet sand, you can dry sand it just fine. You don't have to sand in between coats unless there are defects or something gets in the paint.

Wrong thread, just making sure your response goes to the right place

Thanks for the help guys, per usual it seems there are multiple ways to accomplish the same thing.

- I used a vacuum hand pump to draw fluid through the system after replacement of parts, I did this until most of the bubbles were gone.
Didn't keep going as I wasn't making any more progress with the bubbles after a while and just wasting fluid/time.

- Left res. open and topped off

- Had helper pump pedal 6x and hold on last press

- Bleeder opened as pedal was held down, this was repeated 7x.

Clutch pedal still feels a bit spongy and not quite as firm as before, it has resistance, then looses some resistance midway through stroke and then resistance comes back towards very end of stroke.

Sure feels like there are bubbles in there. I have the power bleeder and will go to hardware store and make the tool Tbonem3 depicted.

I didnt replace the nuts that hold the cylinder (OCD that way) to the trans and the dealership will have them in a day so I will likely take the cylinder off again and try again.


Tbonem3
If I use the tool to hold the rod in the cylinder do I want to have it pushed in as far as it will go as to not leave room for air?

[bigjae46]

Don’t pump the pedal. Press and hold. You want to fully retract the piston on the slave.

There is a hose between the reservoir to the clutch master. The master is what compresses the fluid into the slave which pushes the piston and rod into the pivot arm. At rest the master is closed. You need to open the line between the brake fluid reservoir to the bleeder on the clutch slave.

Pumping the clutch pedal is wrong. You are opening and closing the line when you need to just open the line and draw fluid through the system.

It’s not as hard as everyone makes it out to be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk