I cleaned, brushed and ran a bead of RTV around and up the sides. Was dry after that. Used painter tape to make it nice and even.
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Transmission leaking oil at case joints
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Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post
On mine I'm also wondering if it's leaking from the input shaft seal. I'm not sure if a leak from the input shaft seal would show itself as a leak between the casing.
In my case I already purchased a brand new input shaft seal and all the parts associated with the clutch job like the guide tube etc and all those parts.
Also I now have the same leak where the tranny halves bolt up. It doesn't drip but does weep. For now just watching it until I get the knowledge to pull it apart.
Mike02 M3 Titanium Silver/Black
11 Tundra SuperWhite/Black
16 X5
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Originally posted by CrookedCommie View PostI cleaned, brushed and ran a bead of RTV around and up the sides. Was dry after that. Used painter tape to make it nice and even.
Mike02 M3 Titanium Silver/Black
11 Tundra SuperWhite/Black
16 X5
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Originally posted by CrookedCommie View PostRan it for about a year on the track car. The better you clean up the better the rtv will adhere. Like has been mentioned you don't lose enough to affect the level but it helps keep things dry.
Mike02 M3 Titanium Silver/Black
11 Tundra SuperWhite/Black
16 X5
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Originally posted by nextelbuddy View PostSo while it's out, I planned on separating the bell housing to reseal it or something like Honda Bond or the like.
I use it to seal up diff covers...its much easier and faster than RTV.
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Originally posted by nextelbuddy View PostOP, any updates on this? I'm about to pull my transmission for a twin disc clutch job. So while it's out, I planned on separating the bell housing to reseal it or something like Honda Bond or the like.
On mine I'm also wondering if it's leaking from the input shaft seal. I'm not sure if a leak from the input shaft seal would show itself as a leak between the casing.
In my case I already purchased a brand new input shaft seal and all the parts associated with the clutch job like the guide tube etc and all those parts.
-Then I cleaned it very carefully and used MotoSeal on the joint (low viscosity, chemical resistant sealant). It bubbled underneath and worked its way out.
-Then I used Permatex 'spray sealant leak repair' which is supposed to wick in and seal up leaks. It still leaks.
I think the only way to do it properly is split the cases, clean it as good as possible, apply a sealant, and torque it back. I have not removed my transmission to try it. My leak is not bad enough to warrant pulling it just for that.
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View PostAnaerobic gasket maker is what you want. Toyota uses it. BMW uses it on the B series engines as well.
I use it to seal up diff covers...its much easier and faster than RTV.
Feff
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Originally posted by SaraG View PostMy 2006 M3 was just diagnosed with this leak…. I cannot fix it myself. Any recommendations in west Houston area for someone who thinks like y’all? Thanks!
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Originally posted by SaraG View PostMy 2006 M3 was just diagnosed with this leak…. I cannot fix it myself. Any recommendations in west Houston area for someone who thinks like y’all? Thanks!
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Originally posted by tlow98 View PostThe first joint at the bellhousing isn’t too bad. It’s the same for every smg to manual swap, just don’t pull it all the way. Like Gizmo said, 1/4” is fine. The pieces that fall out won’t fall out until the bell housing is about 2” out.
the other joint… no idea. Not much info out there on that one!
To remove the rear cover, one needs to understand how the interlock mechanism work with those small rods and springs and how do they interact with the internal shift rods
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Originally posted by sapote View Post
How bad is the leak and at the rear cover or the bell housing joint? I would not open the case to fix it if only a little sweat as removing the rear cover is not simple.2 Photos
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