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Hi t3ddftw Ted. Other callers say I sound "tinny," not that they hear themselves at setting 0. Just asking for a good default number suggestion. Mic is original OEM. Thanks.Last edited by BlueBimmers; 04-12-2023, 12:30 PM.
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0dB is the lowest on the HW 2.x BlueBus. I assume the other party is hearing themselves? If so, what mic gain is it set to now, and what are the last three digits of the microphone in use?
-Ted
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t3ddftw - quick question. The GitHub Wiki page says a good default setting for Mic Gain is -23. My Bluebus won't set that number any lower than 0. Can you advise? Thanks.
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Originally posted by heinzboehmer View PostJust added the ground loop isolator to my car like Ted suggested. What a difference! Very happy with how it turned out. Thanks Ted!
Here's details on how I did it in case anyone wants to replicate: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ge8#post210857
-Ted
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Just added the ground loop isolator to my car like Ted suggested. What a difference! Very happy with how it turned out. Thanks Ted!
Here's details on how I did it in case anyone wants to replicate: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ge8#post210857
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Originally posted by JeroenS View PostHi Ted,
I have the bluebus since day one and really loving it! Never thought the audio quality could be so good with my low-end (basic) stock radio!
I also have a pretty noticable alternator whine sound coming through the speakers, related to the rpm. When the radio is turned off, the sound is gone.
Can a ground loop isolator help reduces this issue? If so, can you share a wire diagram where to place the isolator? I have a MID radio, non DSP (unfortunately) and non amp.
Also, I missed the recall action for the early v1 batch, related to the handsfree calling? How serious is the issue, do I risk the bluebus will stop working?
Kind regards,
Jeroen
I don't have a diagram for how it incorporates, but it's pretty simple -- the goal is to wire this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171PQLB8/ inline with the 6-pin audio output connector from the BlueBus to the car. I sell adapters for this which convert the 6-pin to 3.5mm and back, making it plug and play.
Yeah, your BlueBus could just stop working one day. You should really send it in, but you'll have to send it to the U.S. at this point. Shoot me an email, please!
Thanks!
-Ted
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Hi Ted,
I have the bluebus since day one and really loving it! Never thought the audio quality could be so good with my low-end (basic) stock radio!
I also have a pretty noticable alternator whine sound coming through the speakers, related to the rpm. When the radio is turned off, the sound is gone.
Can a ground loop isolator help reduces this issue? If so, can you share a wire diagram where to place the isolator? I have a MID radio, non DSP (unfortunately) and non amp.
Also, I missed the recall action for the early v1 batch, related to the handsfree calling? How serious is the issue, do I risk the bluebus will stop working?
Kind regards,
Jeroen
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Originally posted by WestBankM4 View Post
What a difference this makes, thank you my good man! Beautiful crimps by the way.
Originally posted by audipwr1 View PostAre the new kits corrected for the issues above? This sounds like an amazing product - exactly what i am looking for to use my iphone with all original OEM stuff.
Thanks!
-Ted
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Are the new kits corrected for the issues above? This sounds like an amazing product - exactly what i am looking for to use my iphone with all original OEM stuff.
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Originally posted by t3ddftw View Post
Remove the cable that came with your isolator and toss it. Connect the 3.5mm ends from the two cables I sent to the isolator, then connect it inline with the 6-pin BlueBus audio connector.
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Originally posted by WestBankM4 View PostHi Ted, I received the wire adapters and I've got my Ground Loop Isolator in tote.
Can you ELI5 what to do with these two wire adapters provided? My Isolator has a single 3.5mm jack coming off of it and a female 3.5mm jack input.
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Hi Ted, I received the wire adapters and I've got my Ground Loop Isolator in tote.
Can you ELI5 what to do with these two wire adapters provided? My Isolator has a single 3.5mm jack coming off of it and a female 3.5mm jack input.
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It's just a simple wire adapter.
I buy these: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1700
Then I crimp on these terminals from TE connectivity:
1355719-1
1355717-1
Finally, I assemble the connector ends with these parts (also from TE):
1379118-1 (Vehicle end of the connector, which needs to have both ground pins populated)
185311-1 (Inner Terminals Housing)
953382-1 (Outer Housing)
953381-1 (Inner Housing locking cover)
Thanks!
-Ted
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Originally posted by t3ddftw View Post
I definitely wouldn't activate the low beams in any case, haha.
For "Follow Me Home", lots of folks want the high beams on so they can illuminate their walkway. For Welcome Home, perhaps high beams don't make as much sense because you may not be aware of what's in the path of your light beam.
Originally posted by t3ddftw View PostYeah, that's true. My first M3 had them wired to the interior lamps, so they turned on when you unlocked the car, which was neat.
-Ted
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