Rod Bearings - while I’m in there...

[Jersey_M3]

Hello. I am getting a list together of parts needed to preform my rod bearing service. I have an early 2002 model car, and will be using all genuine BMW parts for the replacement of the bearings and bolts. FCP euro sells a kit for my car for 560 or so. Figured I would just get that

So while I’m in there
Replace the power steering lines - might get the chase bays kit
Fcab - looking at tuner but is it really worth the upgrade?
looks like there is an upgraded oil line for the pan, gotta source this part number. My hope is it isn’t a rubber part like the one I currently see on my pan
I might have good access to the cpv o-ring replacement since the subframe will be dropped
I just finished my subframe reinforcement DIY from CMP. and it looks like there is a front subframe reinforcement kit. Does anyone know if this is an actual failure point?

Anything I’m missing or any advice from the DIY lords would be appreciated

[Andrew 06M3Cab]

You should probably also consider the engine mounts.

[COVID-19]

Inner/outer tie rods w/ boots, control arms? Belts/spark plugs/cabin filter/steering coupler.

[ethan]

The newer oil return line is a really nice piece and a good safety upgrade. I've done it to both my 2001 and 2002.

BMW switched from rubber line on a barb to braided stainless and AN. The new line is 11157832781. The barb is threaded into the pan, so you can just replace it with a metric to AN adapter from Pegasus or wherever (I forget the sizes.) Don't forget a crush washer.

Edit:
I really like my Turner FCABs on my HPDE rig. Extremely direct, and I overmaintain that car, so I don't mind greasing them. On my street car, I use Rogue's street poly offering. Both are a lot better than stock, and FWIW I don't use poly anywhere else in my cars.

Great work on your subframe reinforcement!

[Fresh1179]

Wanted to throw out a little bit about the Chase Bays Kit. Make certain that you purchase a set on AN wrenches, particularly the lowest profile AN wrenches you can get to access the lines on the steering rack. Also, be prepared to catch a lot of fluid from the OE cooling loop. I would leave it in place because its a pain to remove. I would tighten the AN fittings on the reservoir prior to placing the reservoir in the vehicle and DOUBLE CHECK that they remain tight after the completion of your install. There is a lot of contortion of the lines to get everything situated. The HP hose is an easy install. Make sure to bleed the car properly (you can find out info online, its just turns of the wheels.) I will say that I notice a lot more noise from my power steering pump and the rack after install. They do not provide installation instructions but it is pretty straightforward. They do have online instructions that talk extensively through troubleshooting, but I still wonder if the kit has damaged my rack or pump, or just exposed damage and wear that already existed...

[Jersey_M3]

Wanted to throw out a little bit about the Chase Bays Kit. Make certain that you purchase a set on AN wrenches, particularly the lowest profile AN wrenches you can get to access the lines on the steering rack. Also, be prepared to catch a lot of fluid from the OE cooling loop. I would leave it in place because its a pain to remove. I would tighten the AN fittings on the reservoir prior to placing the reservoir in the vehicle and DOUBLE CHECK that they remain tight after the completion of your install. There is a lot of contortion of the lines to get everything situated. The HP hose is an easy install. Make sure to bleed the car properly (you can find out info online, its just turns of the wheels.) I will say that I notice a lot more noise from my power steering pump and the rack after install. They do not provide installation instructions but it is pretty straightforward. They do have online instructions that talk extensively through troubleshooting, but I still wonder if the kit has damaged my rack or pump, or just exposed damage and wear that already existed...

This is very interesting. I’ve been reading almost nothing but good things about the e36 version. Figured the E46 version would be along the same build quality. Thanks for the tips.

[mrgizmo04]

You are going to be removing a lot of parts, all of which can be replaced/upgraded. Belts/tensioners, mech fan/clutch, you can replace the PS reservoir, steering rack (upgrade to z3, 330zhp, etc), steering coupler. I did not remove the entire front suspension and subframe, I lowered the subframe enough to give me room to work and supported with a jack. You can replace control arms, fcabs, tie rods, upgrade brakes/lines, swaybar/bushings, coilovers, top mounts, etc. There are some orings on the suction pipe once you remove the oil pan. The nut in oil pump sprocket is reverse threaded, put some loctite on when reinstalling.

From what I remember, you will not gain better access to the cpv, that is mainly hidden by the bellhousing and headers.

Be careful with the support bar - i would not trust it while I'm under the engine with nothing else supporting it. It rotates about the contact points that sit on the fenders and the hooks that are provided didn't really inspire confidence, neither did the chain. I put jack/wood under the engine mount arms from underneath.

I might remember something else later.

[Dash1]

Depending on the year of your car you may already have the updated oil line. You can replace the near whole front end because of all the components you have to remove for rod bearings. If time isn't of essence, get the essentials for a rod bearing job and inspect your parts as you remove them. You'll be able to tell what is and isn't worn. Hopefully. But like gizmo said, just knock out the obvious stuff at least

[JamesSJ1]

Have a 2006 vert at 92k. Wasn't thrilled with my latest Blackstone analysis at 90k so planning to make the bearings a "maintenance" item as I get closer to 95-96k, maybe sooner. Addiotionally planning on doing the steering coupler and motor mounts, and the necessary replacement parts for the bearings (bolts, gaskets, o-rings, etc). Belts and pulleys are almost all newer, newer FCABs, already did new oring on CPV.

Anything else that I really should be doing that is due by 100-110k miles, that is significantly easier with the subframe dropped? E.g. dropping big bucks on cooling parts replacements (or can that wait). Are there front subframe bushings I should replace? Just thinking about 15 year old rubber that can benefit from replacement now.

Gizmo. ...will be in touch when the time comes, or soon. Might inquire about a couple specialty tools I won't need otherwise. Another month of work-from-home here means she only gets driven maybe once a week, so a great time to have at it for a week while I don't need to drive it anyway.

[COVID-19]

Have a 2006 vert at 92k. Wasn't thrilled with my latest Blackstone analysis at 90k so planning to make the bearings a "maintenance" item as I get closer to 95-96k, maybe sooner. Addiotionally planning on doing the steering coupler and motor mounts, and the necessary replacement parts for the bearings (bolts, gaskets, o-rings, etc). Belts and pulleys are almost all newer, newer FCABs, already did new oring on CPV.

Anything else that I really should be doing that is due by 100-110k miles, that is significantly easier with the subframe dropped? E.g. dropping big bucks on cooling parts replacements (or can that wait). Are there front subframe bushings I should replace? Just thinking about 15 year old rubber that can benefit from replacement now.

Gizmo. ...will be in touch when the time comes, or soon. Might inquire about a couple specialty tools I won't need otherwise. Another month of work-from-home here means she only gets driven maybe once a week, so a great time to have at it for a week while I don't need to drive it anyway.

Control arms/tie rods/FCAB/sway bar links and bushings

[jbfrancis3]

Are there front subframe bushings I should replace?

No bushings; the front subframe bolts directly to the unibody.

[Speed Monkey]

No bushings; the front subframe bolts directly to the unibody.

You should have said:

”Yes, replace the front subframe bushings along with the muffler bearings!”

[jbfrancis3]

You should have said:

”Yes, replace the front subframe bushings along with the muffler bearings!”

Ah sh*t. What can I say, when you're right you're right!

[mrgizmo04]

Gizmo. ...will be in touch when the time comes, or soon. Might inquire about a couple specialty tools I won't need otherwise. Another month of work-from-home here means she only gets driven maybe once a week, so a great time to have at it for a week while I don't need to drive it anyway.

That the one we did VANOS on?

[JamesSJ1]

That the one we did VANOS on?

That's the one (thanks again for your help with that!). I picked up the Beisan anti rattle kit recently, so a rebuild with paper-perfect exhaust hub alignment will be a before or after rod bearings change too.