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  • speedster
    replied
    Liqui Moly 10W-60 along with the Mann filter here

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  • Arith2
    replied
    Originally posted by digger View Post

    i saw a LM video where they did an oil change where they added LM oil then added ceratec. If ceratec is so good why isnt it already the damn oil. thats why i dont use LM anything its BS

    About the only time an additive makes sense is an unusal operating codition like running in. But you'd just buy a dedicated running in oil.
    It's just a money making scheme.

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  • digger
    replied
    Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
    If ceratec worked as advertised, which I doubt it does, wouldn't it fill up the crosshatch on the cyclinder walls causing a bit of oil starvation and burning of more oil?

    I don't believe it works. Seems like a snake oil to me. Change my mind.
    i saw a LM video where they did an oil change where they added LM oil then added ceratec. If ceratec is so good why isnt it already the damn oil. thats why i dont use LM anything its BS

    About the only time an additive makes sense is an unusal operating codition like running in. But you'd just buy a dedicated running in oil.
    Last edited by digger; 05-09-2020, 04:41 PM.

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  • Nate047
    replied
    Liqui Moly or Redline 10w60

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  • Norocehcap
    replied
    Liqui Moly 10W-60 with a Mann filter

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  • Arith2
    replied
    If ceratec worked as advertised, which I doubt it does, wouldn't it fill up the crosshatch on the cyclinder walls causing a bit of oil starvation and burning of more oil?

    I don't believe it works. Seems like a snake oil to me. Change my mind.

    Leave a comment:


  • Altaran
    replied
    Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
    Interesting. What Motul did you use in the trans? And I'm assuming Gear Competition 75W-140 in the diff, yeah?
    Sorry for the late response. Yeah, gear comp was for the diff. I used Multi DCTF for the trans.

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  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Originally posted by rbg View Post
    Also I know this is a new forum, but on m3f we agreed on no using any additives, if I remember correctly :-)
    Ya, no snake oil

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  • Arith2
    replied
    Originally posted by Icecream View Post

    When it first started to tick I didn't think it was a bearing (or anything that serious) so I still hit redline a few times and the engine didn't grenade itself, impressive if you ask me.

    oh and hello everyone
    Very impressive indeed. My piston disappeared when a bearing welded itself to the crank.

    And welcome back!

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  • rbg
    replied
    Also I know this is a new forum, but on m3f we agreed on no using any additives, if I remember correctly :-)

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  • r4dr
    replied
    Originally posted by rbg View Post

    Ceratec is not free ;-)
    Cheaper on Amazon too.

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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by Icecream View Post

    This is true, they did spin after the first change with the twin power stuff. However, given how fubarred the bearing was, how little the crank was damaged and how hard I drove it with the damaged bearing, I think the oil did extremely well. It was coincidental it went out with that oil. When it first started to tick I didn't think it was a bearing (or anything that serious) so I still hit redline a few times and the engine didn't grenade itself, impressive if you ask me.

    oh and hello everyone
    Ah I guess I was remembering things wrong. For some reason I thought you had traced it back to the oil.

    ​​​​

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  • rbg
    replied
    Originally posted by sbay View Post
    Running BMW 10W-60 + Ceratec. Nothing like free from FCP.
    Ceratec is not free ;-)

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  • sbay
    replied
    Running BMW 10W-60 + Ceratec. Nothing like free from FCP.

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  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Originally posted by Albino09 View Post
    LM 10W-60, FCP. If shipping the old oil back is "a little annoying" you might be "a little lazy".
    ..

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