S54 oil pump chain

[snaponbob]

How does one determine if an oil pump chain need replacement?

I am tracking my M3. It's an 04 three owner car. Previous two used it as just a driver. Car has 155k miles on it. Oil pan is off just for inspection purposes after having heard some noises I didn't like. Seem it was starter related. But, while I was in there I started taking a good look at things. Found the first indication of the oil pump chain kissing the pump housing. Having already done "the big 3" when I bought the car 3 years ago, I don't want to pull the VANOS again but would have to in order to replace the chain -- unless I have to.

YouTube video of the chain .... https://youtu.be/RjS0p2BieU8

[jet_dogg]

I would change the tensioner at minimum #13

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BL93-USA-07-2003-E46-BMW-M3&diagId=11_1579

[snaponbob]

I would change the tensioner at minimum #13

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_1579

If I go in there for that, I'll shotgun it and replace everything. Chains, guides, tensions, etc. By the time I have the front cover off, the rest is a breeze.

[stash1]

Very common issue w/these engines...most of the ones I've seen apart w/miles on them exhibit this wear on the housing. I've actually seen some people 'pre-clearance' this area during a rebuild-lol.

[snaponbob]

Very common issue w/these engines...most of the ones I've seen apart w/miles on them exhibit this wear on the housing. I've actually seen some people 'pre-clearance' this area during a rebuild-lol.

Well, that sort of begs the question -- should it be replaced? This car will see more miles ON a trailer going to-from track events than on the streets. Later, it will go back to stock and sold. In the meanwhile, it will live its life from 4000-8000 rpm !!! Not scared of doing the work, but it would be a $400(ish) trip in there. And I need control arms, a round of 200tw tire, and some cooling system enhancements. Maybe I will convince myself that it's just "insurance".

[enjoy_m3]

Though I don't think failing oil pump, or chain is a common issue other than making a mark on the pickup neck. I can confirm, during my engine rebuild at 155k, that the chain stretched when I compared to the new oil pump chain. I replaced with a new tensioner and chain.

[snaponbob]

Though I don't think failing oil pump, or chain is a common issue other than making a mark on the pickup neck. I can confirm, during my engine rebuild at 155k, that the chain stretched when I compared to the new oil pump chain. I replaced with a new tensioner and chain.

I have almost ALWAYS operated on the premise "well, while I'm in there". I have done that with MY stuff, and over the past 14 years probably well over 150 other people's 30s, 36s, 46s, and a few 39s. Always meant a bit more money, but always resulted in better "product" when I was done.

[cobra]

I replaced mine while I was in there, but didn't see a need when comparing to the new chain. Really it's just your tensioner spring that has probably gotten weak. I found the new one to be much stiffer.

[snaponbob]

I replaced mine while I was in there, but didn't see a need when comparing to the new chain. Really it's just your tensioner spring that has probably gotten weak. I found the new one to be much stiffer.

The crappy aspect is that the oil chain is behind the cam chain. The tensioner appears to only need the front cover to be removed. Easier because my oil pan is off at the moment.

[cobra]

The crappy aspect is that the oil chain is behind the cam chain. The tensioner appears to only need the front cover to be removed. Easier because my oil pan is off at the moment.

I pulled the timing cover, vibration damper, then removed vanos to slacken the chain and removed the crank sprocket. Then was able to remove the oil pump chain easily. A bit of a pain.

[snaponbob]

I pulled the timing cover, vibration damper, then removed vanos to slacken the chain and removed the crank sprocket. Then was able to remove the oil pump chain easily. A bit of a pain.

Good to know. My hope is that there would be enough side slack to do that. PHEW. Not that I am scared to pull the sprockets and retime the cams, but it is one less PITA I would have to deal with.
"Less is more".

Have to wait 6(ish) more weeks to recover enough from rotator cuff surgery. Lots of stuff I can do with one hand, though.

[Obioban]

I'd do the tensioner, not the chain. The tensioner is more likely to be the worn out part, and IIRC you're not actually "In there" for the chain-- first you must remove the timing chain, when means the vanos and front cover has to come off... which means you're in for a MUCH larger project, for a part that's almost certainly not meaningfully stretched (hard to stretch a chain that starts out so short).

[snaponbob]

I'd do the tensioner, not the chain. The tensioner is more likely to be the worn out part, and IIRC you're not actually "In there" for the chain-- first you must remove the timing chain, when means the vanos and front cover has to come off... which means you're in for a MUCH larger project, for a part that's almost certainly not meaningfully stretched (hard to stretch a chain that starts out so short).

How can the tensioner be replaced without removing the front cover? And to remove the front cover, there are two screws that can't be accessed with the VANOS in place. At least, that is how it looks in realoem. Guess I need to go look at it again.

[Chanman1029]

I had these same marks on my oil pump when I took it apart for my rebuild, it had 119k ‘miles on it.

I replaced both chains, and bought new guides and tensioners and retaining clips for everything, including the oil pump chain tensioner. As OP states, I too also work on a “while I’m in there” basis. In my mind, the peace of mind is worth it. I didn’t do it, but looking back I should have filed down the burred edges where the pump and chain made contact

[snaponbob]

I had these same marks on my oil pump when I took it apart for my rebuild, it had 119k ‘miles on it.

I replaced both chains, and bought new guides and tensioners and retaining clips for everything, including the oil pump chain tensioner. As OP states, I too also work on a “while I’m in there” basis. In my mind, the peace of mind is worth it. I didn’t do it, but looking back I should have filed down the burred edges where the pump and chain made contact

Just crawled under it again. Tensioner feels right, and the chain is still snug on the sprocket. The mark is really quiet small, and not dug out at all. Even if there is chain whip, it won't jump teeth. The sprocket looks fine. I am starting to lean on "fahgetaboudit" (said with a New Joizey accent).