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Cam Bolts Broken After Replacement

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    #31
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

    I have a spare set of those parts so I had mine hot tanked. That is overkill but you can pull those parts off and properly clean them


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    You think I can remove those bolts with the red loctite w/o breaking them? That would be preferable..
    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
    Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
    Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

    OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
    RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

    2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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      #32
      Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

      You think I can remove those bolts with the red loctite w/o breaking them? That would be preferable..
      You can try applying some heat which breaks down the loctite. Its been awhile...might have to be careful with the plastic.

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        #33
        Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

        You can try applying some heat which breaks down the loctite. Its been awhile...might have to be careful with the plastic.
        For bolts this small soldering iron should make quick work of heating up the bolt enough. Depending on wattage 30-60 seconds should be enough with a large chisel tip. Just make sure you clean up the area free of oil, flashpoint of the oil is like 400F. I think loctite recommends 500F to loosen the adhesive.

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          #34
          OMG! one guy did not lock it right, the other soldered it!!! People stop shooting themselves in the foot!!! LOL. Kidding!!

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            #35
            Originally posted by maupineda View Post
            OMG! one guy did not lock it right, the other soldered it!!! People stop shooting themselves in the foot!!! LOL. Kidding!!
            Hey now!! I bought the Lang kit, which comes with the Red stuff so how could I possibly have made an error.

            It's funny how much I over thought the Vanos job, I put the Lang bolts in 3 times, with fresh new ~$40 bolts each time! Once with non-oil resistant blue at 9 ft. Lb., then with oil resistant blue torqued to 9 ft. lbs., than finally Red oil resistant loctite torqued to 12.9 ft lbs.
            That also leaves out all the other bullshit items I over-thought while I had it all apart which some of you I'm sure remember.

            That particular job did teach me to just take it easy on future jobs, do it right, but don't over complicate what is a relatively easy job.
            2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
            Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
            Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

            OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
            RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

            2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
            Instagram

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              #36
              Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

              Hey now!! I bought the Lang kit, which comes with the Red stuff so how could I possibly have made an error.

              It's funny how much I over thought the Vanos job, I put the Lang bolts in 3 times, with fresh new ~$40 bolts each time! Once with non-oil resistant blue at 9 ft. Lb., then with oil resistant blue torqued to 9 ft. lbs., than finally Red oil resistant loctite torqued to 12.9 ft lbs.
              That also leaves out all the other bullshit items I over-thought while I had it all apart which some of you I'm sure remember.

              That particular job did teach me to just take it easy on future jobs, do it right, but don't over complicate what is a relatively easy job.
              248 loctite here with the bmw bolts. Loctite TDS datasheet says 90% strength in presence of motor oil.

              Fuel is usually the major issue for loctite.

              As long as you clean the threads when installing should be fine.

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                #37
                Originally posted by eacmen View Post

                For bolts this small soldering iron should make quick work of heating up the bolt enough. Depending on wattage 30-60 seconds should be enough with a large chisel tip.
                I don't think the soldering iron tip can transfer the heat to the bolt effectively. When soldering, the molten lead acted as a prefect heat transfer media between the iron tip and the object, but without the molten solder, I say less than 30% of heat transferred. A torch or heat gun or hair drier is better.

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