Rear Lower Control (Camber) Arm Removal

[eacmen]

Taking a poll here on what is the best method to remove the rear lower control arm. I have heard some say to remove the axle from the diff to let the bolt clear. I have heard some say you need unbolt and lift the diff. Curious what people have found to be the best method.

If lifting the diff do you really need to unbolt the front diff mount or can you just unbolt the two rear E14s and then allow the diff to pivot on the front diff mount?

Thanks in advance.

[Tbonem3]

Yes, unbolt front AND rears, move diff back and to the side away from where you're working. You Don't need to remove diff, but you DO need to move it. DON'T need to disconnect axle or prop shafts.

Just did this a few weeks ago, a bit of a pita. 2 people is best, done it both ways though.

[eacmen]

Yes, unbolt front AND rears, move diff back and to the side away from where you're working. You Don't need to remove diff, but you DO need to move it. DON'T need to disconnect axle or prop shafts.

Just did this a few weeks ago, a bit of a pita. 2 people is best, done it both ways though.

Thanks! Not looking forward to breaking that front bolt loose though!

[Tbonem3]

fucking blows. I need to find the right 1/2" extension. The space is so tight, only my 3/8 fits, but that's a lot of torque for a 3/8. I end up breaking it with a 7/8 oxygen sensor deepwell socket, using the end of the socket's 6 points with a big end wrench. Then I loosen with regular 3/8 drive.

[01SG]

Definitely worth finding the 1/2" to get it off. I forget which size extension is long enough to clear the tunnel, but short enough not to interfere with the other part of the sub-frame. I was definitely able to torque it with my 1/2" Snap-on though. You'll have to switch to something smaller taking it out too, after breaking it loose. It quickly gets too tight for the big ratchet head.

Very easy to strip that bolt as well. I accidentally took the rear bolts out first, and worse my jack wasn't fully supporting the weight, so as I undid the front it shifted slightly and marred the threads. I always see people talk about doing it the conventional way too..Then you get to take the diff out.

[eacmen]

I didn’t even get that far. Struggling with the outer bolt on the lower control arm. Didn’t think it would put up this much of a fight. I suspect loctite since I can get the bolt to rotate with the nut. I put my Dewalt cordless impact on it for around 10 seconds and nothing. Worried about breaking the bolt. Afraid to bring the torch out as there is that bearing right there.


Any suggestions?

[heinzboehmer]

Well, if you break it then it will no longer be holding the arm in

Other than that, maybe some penetrating fluid? Although it won't do anything if that bolt has loctite on it.

[eacmen]

Well, if you break it then it will no longer be holding in the arm

Other than that, maybe some penetrating fluid? Although it won't do anything if that bolt has loctite on it.

Yeah i should have said I already put penetrant on it last night.

I suppose i’m more concerned with rounding the head than snapping it!

[heinzboehmer]

If it's truly putting up a fight and won't come out without getting mangled, you can use a dremel to cut a slit in the nut. Then zip it off with an impact.

If it still won't come out, spreading the cut with a cold chisel should do the trick.

But yeah, heat in that area sounds like a bad idea because of the bearing.

[eacmen]

If it's truly putting up a fight and won't come out without getting mangled, you can use a dremel to cut a slit in the nut. Then zip it off with an impact.

If it still won't come out, spreading the cut with a cold chisel should do the trick.

But yeah, heat in that area sounds like a bad idea because of the bearing.

Thanks man! Neighbor came over with an air impact and it came off like a hot knife through butter.

Until now I have never saw a need for the air impact. My Dewalt 20V impact has taken off anything I ever threw at it.

I have the air compressor so now I guess I’m buying some air tools!

[jet_dogg]

Which dewalt?

[eacmen]

Which dewalt?

DEWALT DCF899HB 20V MAX XR... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA

[repoman89]

Supposedly the Milwaukee electric impacts have a lot more torque available than the equivalent dewalts. I did a lot of reading when I got mine and went with their mid torque despite having dewalt tools and batteries otherwise. Kind of moot since you have a compressor available though

[eacmen]

Supposedly the Milwaukee electric impacts have a lot more torque available than the equivalent dewalts. I did a lot of reading when I got mine and went with their mid torque despite having dewalt tools and batteries otherwise. Kind of moot since you have a compressor available though

Yeah the milwaukee has a clear advantage in most tests. However i’ve never encountered a bolt the dewalt wouldn’t zip out until now.

I also got the new dewalt atomic impact recently and its so light and small perfect for the tool bag. Takes off lugs with ease.

Same neighbor had a high torque snap on cordless impact and it also did not budge.

Now shopping for an air impact and air ratchet.

[jet_dogg]

DEWALT DCF899HB 20V MAX XR... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA

I'm shocked this didn't take it off. The battery impacts have as much if not more than air impacts these days.

The higher amp batteries give the tool more power, especially the flexvolts despite what armchair experts say. If going air get the IR 2235timax.