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Advice on adjusting Koni rear shocks

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    DIY: Advice on adjusting Koni rear shocks

    I recently installed Koni shocks/struts with Eibach springs and would like to fart around with the shock settings. The struts are simple, but it appears the shocks require removing. I installed RE shock mounts. With this being said, does anyone have any suggestions how to adjust the shock settings or am I looking at removing them from the car then compressing them with my body weight while trying to rotate them? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks...

    #2
    You have to keep pretty solid force on them while feeling for a very subtle detent. I couldn't imagine doing them while on the car.

    Once they give the -slightest- indication they are at max firm or max soft, STOP. The mechanism that twists the internal valve can't apply much torque to it, so if you overtorque it it's stuck there forever (ask me how I know)

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      #3
      Thanks...

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        #4
        Pull them, stick one on the floor with a screwdriver through the bottom eye.
        Remove the rsm and use a 5mm allen.
        compress and seek the detent.
        turn ccw back to full soft, for your reference, the turn cw to stiffen.

        I'm at 3/4 or 270 deg and I find them nice riding, but a little "slow" when really pushing.
        I don't track any more, so I like them.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Nuclear Rabbit View Post
          Once they give the -slightest- indication they are at max firm or max soft, STOP. The mechanism that twists the internal valve can't apply much torque to it, so if you overtorque it it's stuck there forever (ask me how I know)
          Drives me nuts when things aren't engineered to solve for stuff like this. Like... when shocks have clicks that aren't meant to be used - e.g., overlap or dead zones with high and low speeds compression and rebound. And then stuff like this: twist it too far and it sticks there forever. 😒

          Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue​

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            #6
            This adjustment procedure is definitely more cumbersome than it needs to be. Heck, just removing the freaking shocks mount means I need to go buy new lock nuts for crying out loud. Not that they're expensive, it's more of the nuance of having to do so. I think I'll try half a turn (180 deg) front and rear and see how it goes. I really appreciate all the feedback. Thanks...

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              #7
              They are horrid to adjust. I hate them for that. The way I did it was clamp the threaded portion of the shaft in the vise with soft jaws and then compress the shock with my body weight leaning into it.

              And then I replaced them with something externally adjustable... which takes 5 seconds to adjust vs X amount of minutes (depending on if you put your trunk liner back and how quickly you can jack up the car)

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