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Rear Upper/Lower Ball Joint Replacement

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  • oceansize
    replied
    bigjae is correct, you drop the diff. For every e46 m3 owner it truly is a WTF moment.

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by Altaran View Post
    If I remember correctly for the inner bushing you have to loosen/drop the subframe just enough so the bolts will slide out.

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    Have to drop the diff. It is one of the few WTFs was BMW thinking. Not complaining…Ford, GM and CDJR have hundreds of those on each car.

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  • Altaran
    replied
    Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
    Can anyone point to a helpful DIY for the upper arm outer ball joint/inner bushing? I had a shop install adjustable LCAs and at that time they did the outer ball joints; should have just had them do the upper but must not have been thinking. If replacing only uppers--either just the outer ball joint or in addition, the inner bushing, is alignment necessary?
    If I remember correctly for the inner bushing you have to loosen/drop the subframe just enough so the bolts will slide out.

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  • Altaran
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
    I had a seized ball joint when I bought the car...it happens.
    It does. I remember when I did those, the eccentric bolt was seized to the inner part of the joint. Had to cut it out...

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  • PSUEng
    replied
    Can anyone point to a helpful DIY for the upper arm outer ball joint/inner bushing? I had a shop install adjustable LCAs and at that time they did the outer ball joints; should have just had them do the upper but must not have been thinking. If replacing only uppers--either just the outer ball joint or in addition, the inner bushing, is alignment necessary?

    Leave a comment:


  • Arith2
    replied
    I changed mine with my rear end refresh. I just used a generic kit from harbor freight and I would actually consider these the easiest part of everything. They popped right out and the new ones went right in.

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    I had a seized ball joint when I bought the car...it happens.

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  • Tonggi
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post

    I tried doing this:

    I had a lot of trouble finding good documentation on what people used to remove and install their rear trailing arm bushings and ball joints. So I am posting what I have found so far. I haven't done the job yet, but I'm going to put this to the test this weekend. There's no reason that these...


    the 46mm works well to receive the ball joint. However all the sockets i tried would damage the rubber boot. Between the threaded rod and sockets you end up spending almost the same.
    perfect, exactly what I did back in the day.

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by Tonggi View Post

    You can also make your own from old sockets and a threaded rod. the old M3F I remember making a DIY for one. It wasn't too diffcult (im sure everyone has old sockets laying around)
    I tried doing this:

    I had a lot of trouble finding good documentation on what people used to remove and install their rear trailing arm bushings and ball joints. So I am posting what I have found so far. I haven't done the job yet, but I'm going to put this to the test this weekend. There's no reason that these...


    the 46mm works well to receive the ball joint. However all the sockets i tried would damage the rubber boot. Between the threaded rod and sockets you end up spending almost the same.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tonggi
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post
    Nevermind. Just tried pushing the ball joint out from front to rear and it came out. In case anyone ever needs to do this I highly recommend the PMD tool. Now just need to wait for the new ones to get nice and cold in the freezer!

    You can also make your own from old sockets and a threaded rod. the old M3F I remember making a DIY for one. It wasn't too diffcult (im sure everyone has old sockets laying around)

    Leave a comment:


  • oceansize
    replied
    I replaced all ball joints, bushings (and I do mean all), mounts, FCA, and inner/outer tie rods shortly after I bought my car. Transformative to say the least and being a southern car everything was super easy.

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Yeah i’m surprised people don’t talk about replacing these more often. Only reason i’m doing it is I had to pull the GC lower control arm to replace the inner bearing and found that the outer ball joints were very loose. The rubber looked intact but they just did not seem as tight as they should be.

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  • FBloggs
    replied
    It is a decent kit.
    I used it for the same job, plus I used other cups in it to R nR the rtabs on my E30 M3.

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  • Casa de Mesa
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post
    Nevermind. Just tried pushing the ball joint out from front to rear and it came out. In case anyone ever needs to do this I highly recommend the PMD tool. Now just need to wait for the new ones to get nice and cold in the freezer!

    +1 I used the same exact tool on mine, except it was branded as the Bavarian Autosports "Trailing Arm Bushing Tool - Master Set #B8800100". Worked like a champ. Bav Auto's "special" tools are often just white labeled, as far as I can tell.

    Also for those interested, here is the orientation I used to pull the ball joints.

    Click image for larger version

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Nevermind. Just tried pushing the ball joint out from front to rear and it came out. In case anyone ever needs to do this I highly recommend the PMD tool. Now just need to wait for the new ones to get nice and cold in the freezer!


    Leave a comment:

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