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Rear Upper/Lower Ball Joint Replacement

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  • George Hill
    replied
    Is this cheating? lol https://youtube.com/shorts/1gKEkC7Qv...fvMNuMdNSkZ0Qs

    IMO its more work up front, but easier work once you get there. Pull the parking brake shoes and unbolt the dust shield, gives you a ton more access to the area around the ball joints.

    You CAN get the UCA bolts out with the diff in but you have to unbolt it. At that point its not a "ton" more work to get the diff out. If you go back together with bushings then those need to be tightened at ride height. So I'll measure the ride height before I disassemble replace the arms and then jack that corner up until I simulate ride height and then tighten the inner control arm bolts, super easy with the diff out of the car.

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  • fattycharged
    replied
    What Eacman posted is almost identical to what I used. ECS sells them too, so when you break them…
    I ordered an extra set of these as well



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by LSB__M3 View Post

    Link?
    This is what I used:

    Leave a comment:


  • LSB__M3
    replied
    Originally posted by fattycharged View Post
    Did this with them on the vehicle, using N rtab removal tool from Amazon…took no time


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Link?

    Leave a comment:


  • fattycharged
    replied
    Did this with them on the vehicle, using N rtab removal tool from Amazon…took no time


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • CrookedCommie
    replied
    Back on topic, I'm not sure orientation of removal matters, but there is a beveled edge on the back side of the trailing arm towards the brakes that will assist in installation, I would pull the new ball joints back in from there.
    Attached Files

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

    I thought the inners (upper and lower) were bushings.

    BMW calls the outers a ball joint so you used the correct term.
    You're right the stock lower control arm inner busing is rubber. I've never worked on a car that still had the stock lower control arm.

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post

    Maybe I used the wrong term, there are spherical bearings on the outer trailing arm in the rear and also on the lower inner rear control arm.
    I thought the inners (upper and lower) were bushings.

    BMW calls the outers a ball joint so you used the correct term.

    Leave a comment:


  • fattycharged
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post

    Maybe I used the wrong term, there are spherical bearings on the outer trailing arm in the rear and also on the lower inner rear control arm.
    I'd have called them the same, because they're ball joints


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  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by sapote View Post
    For a moment I was a bit confused. There are no ball joints on the rear suspension, but they are bushings.
    Maybe I used the wrong term, there are spherical bearings on the outer trailing arm in the rear and also on the lower inner rear control arm.

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  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post
    Quick question. Has anyone done replacement of the upper and lower outer ball joints on the rear trailing arm? Do they only come out one way?
    For a moment I was a bit confused. There are no ball joints on the rear suspension, but they are bushings.

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  • CrookedCommie
    replied
    Just did this with the advanced auto rental tool and a $5 copper pipe cap from Menards, pushed them out pretty easy with the impact.

    Attached Files

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by oceansize View Post

    Then if like me you install the CMP sub-frame bushings and have another WTF moment when you go to torque check the front diff bolt lol
    Damn...I'd invent at least 3 new cuss words if that happened to me.

    Leave a comment:


  • oceansize
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

    lol...And I always think I can get it out without dropping the diff until I get under the car and try. Its literally 1/4" too long but you can't shorten the bolt because it will be a 1/16" too short and makes getting the nut back on a total nightmare. I've tried. I believe BMW said "fuck those DIY'ers, watch this" when they designed that.
    Then if like me you install the CMP sub-frame bushings and have another WTF moment when you go to torque check the front diff bolt lol

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by oceansize View Post
    bigjae is correct, you drop the diff. For every e46 m3 owner it truly is a WTF moment.
    lol...And I always think I can get it out without dropping the diff until I get under the car and try. Its literally 1/4" too long but you can't shorten the bolt because it will be a 1/16" too short and makes getting the nut back on a total nightmare. I've tried. I believe BMW said "fuck those DIY'ers, watch this" when they designed that.

    Leave a comment:

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