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    Need advice - 1st startup after a year…

    Looking for a little advice, the car has been sitting for just over a year doing a bunch of maintenance, then delays in getting it finished due to life happening. Do I need to prime to oil pump before the first start up? Any concerns with the old gas in the tank? Any advice is appreciated!
    2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

    #2
    Check oil and coolant levels before starting. Just start it and take your foot off the gas as soon at it starts. Don't rev it cold. Let it warm a bit and then follow the warm-up lights. I would drive down the tank to near empty before refilling - but thats me.

    Look for mouse nests in the engine compartment. Do the usual check of belts, hoses upon startup. Consider a Blackstone oil test.

    Comment


      #3
      Pull your fuel pump fuse for sure before you crank, That way it won't start and you can build some oil pressure.
      If you want to be really sweaty you can pop the spark plugs out really quick and pour some oil into the cylinders and do the same thing. Pull fuel pump fuse, crank 5-10 times. Put it back in and fire it up.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Estoril View Post
        Check oil and coolant levels before starting. Just start it and take your foot off the gas as soon at it starts. Don't rev it cold. Let it warm a bit and then follow the warm-up lights. I would drive down the tank to near empty before refilling - but thats me.

        Look for mouse nests in the engine compartment. Do the usual check of belts, hoses upon startup. Consider a Blackstone oil test.
        Thanks for the input. Just did an oil change so I know that’s good. The tank is about 1/4 full. I was planning to just add 10 gallons of fresh fuel to dilute the old stuff down and call it good.
        2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Rekpoint View Post
          Pull your fuel pump fuse for sure before you crank, That way it won't start and you can build some oil pressure.
          If you want to be really sweaty you can pop the spark plugs out really quick and pour some oil into the cylinders and do the same thing. Pull fuel pump fuse, crank 5-10 times. Put it back in and fire it up.
          This is the approach I was leaning towards. Thanks!
          2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by duracellttu View Post

            This is the approach I was leaning towards. Thanks!
            Pulling spark plugs and spraying fogging oil is a good alternative to pouring oil into the cylinders.

            And if you want to be super paranoid, you can coat the cylinders and then turn the engine over by hand (32mm socket on the crank pulley, turn CW).

            Sidenote: If you want to see someone reviving BMW engines that have been sitting for decades, check out M539 restorations on youtube.
            Last edited by heinzboehmer; 12-30-2021, 09:17 PM.
            2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

            2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

              Pulling spark plugs and spraying fogging oil is a good alternative to pouring oil into the cylinders.

              Sidenote: If you want to see someone reviving BMW engines that have been sitting for decades, check out M539 restorations on youtube.
              Wasn’t planning to pull the plugs or put oil in the cylinders, just pulling the fuel pump relay and cranking a few times to build oil pressure.
              2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by duracellttu View Post

                Wasn’t planning to pull the plugs or put oil in the cylinders, just pulling the fuel pump relay and cranking a few times to build oil pressure.
                With no plugs, there is zero load on the pistons/rings and the synthe oil is good enough, and I'm with you on this.

                Comment


                  #9
                  No need to get fancy here, just dump a few gal of fresh fuel in it, remove fuel pump fuse & prime for a few seconds. It’s only been a year…it should fire right up man! Mine just sat for almost that long unfortunately & fired right up.👌
                  Last edited by stash1; 12-31-2021, 07:01 AM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Subscribed and learning. Mine sits all the time for months at a time and I’ve done nothing other than drive all the old fuel out once I start it and let it idle to warm, follow the warmup lights, etc. These are hearty little beasts.

                    The fuel prime thing is over my head. I will let it sit in ACC mode for some seconds while I remove and store the cover, check for rodent evidence, etc., before cranking the engine. I guess I was under the mistaken impression that would prime the fuel (and oil) pumps (if there are any — I’m not as sophisticated as you guys). Am I wrong there? Does nothing prime in ACC mode?

                    maw

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by maw1124 View Post
                      .The fuel prime thing is over my head. I will let it sit in ACC mode for some seconds while I remove and store the cover, check for rodent evidence, etc., before cranking the engine. I guess I was under the mistaken impression that would prime the fuel (and oil) pumps (if there are any — I’m not as sophisticated as you guys). Am I wrong there? Does nothing prime in ACC mode?

                      maw
                      Fuel pump primes with the key in second position.

                      Oil pump is mechanically driven, so no pressure is built up until the engine starts turning.
                      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                      Comment


                        #12
                        heinzboehmer yes... "key in second position" is better terminology (than "ACC mode"). Thanks.

                        Cheers,

                        maw

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks for all the advice everybody. I ended up hand turning the crank about 10 times first, then removed the fuel pump relay and cranked a few times. After that I added 5 gallons of fresh fuel before starting the engine. Once the fuel lines primed it turned right over! Cleared the codes and nothing came back up. It’s good to go now!
                          2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Sounds about right!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Some good suggestions in here…ill be starting my E60 M5 for the first time in over a year soon. Was planning to do an oil change and pull the fuel pump too..

                              Comment

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