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Rear-end, what hardware is 1 time use?

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    #16
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    I did buy the Epoxy kit w/tools and gusset cups. I sure as shit hate to hack up my car, I don't like the idea or lowering it's resale value, however I don't intend on selling it either.

    You're really getting some experience on your M3 as of late! I haven't done anything in a while and need a project so it's time.
    I had a shop do this job for me though, like you, you only get one shot at cutting. I didn't trust myself and they did an awesome job I must say, you only need one tube of Epoxy for both the cups and Vincebar. Should have enough left over to smooth things out so they're aesthetically pleasing when dried and painted.

    I'll get some pics from what you can see now with the epoxy smoothed out. Attached is when work was in progress. I replaced every piece of rubber back to OEM but upgraded subframe bushings to CMP solid, suspension, front sway, and the rear camber arms. Everything else, factory.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

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      #17
      I’m also in the middle of installing a VinceBar! I’m taking my time with it right now since I have to wait for some Skinz to address some light cracking.

      My car didn’t come with much of a service history but I can tell all the bushings on the rear end were done recently. Still replacing the subframe bushings, though. I’m struggling with what to do for my diff…the bushings look old and this is a good time to do them, but I don’t know if I want to replace the cover (to get new factory bushings) or pop in some 80A poly bushings.

      The fasteners I’ve looked up in the TIS so far are all reusable, but I’m replacing some rusty ones and a ton of plastic clips.

      I also ran into a problem with the weighted plastic sound barrier stuff under the back seat basically disintegrating. I’m considering replacing it with a sheet of Second Skin mass loaded vinyl since I don’t want to compromise cabin noise with my car.
      Create a mass loaded vinyl barrier layer to keep out unwanted airborne noise with Second Skin Luxury Liner MLV.


      This job is adding up!
      Last edited by nahvkolaj; 01-05-2022, 08:17 AM.

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        #18
        Originally posted by nahvkolaj View Post
        I’m also in the middle of installing a VinceBar! I’m taking my time with it right now since I have to wait for some Skinz to address some light cracking.

        My car didn’t come with much of a service history but I can tell all the bushings on the rear end were done recently. Still replacing the subframe bushings, though. I’m struggling with what to do for my diff…the bushings look old and this is a good time to do them, but I don’t know if I want to replace the cover (to get new factory bushings) or pop in some 80A poly bushings.

        The fasteners I’ve looked up in the TIS so far are all reusable, but I’m replacing some rusty ones and a ton of plastic clips.

        I also ran into a problem with the weighted plastic sound barrier stuff under the back seat basically disintegrating. I’m considering replacing it with a sheet of Second Skin mass loaded vinyl since I don’t want to compromise cabin noise with my car.

        This job is adding up!
        Good luck, I'm excited to get moving on this as I need a vehicle project (more than the car needs a Vincebar), I would suggest using OE differential bushings, that is more or less concensus around here.
        Solid subframe and/or monoball RTABS don't seem to create any significant NVH but even the softest poly diff bushings can get you noticeable NVH changes and/or diff while.


        I also have the sound matting under the rear seat comming apart as I'm sure many do, I have to look into a suitable replacement as well.

        Also, check if your rear diff bolts are threaded all way to the head of the bolt, if they are I would go with these updated style and a dab of blue loctite as well.


        2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
        Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
        Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

        OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
        RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

        2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
        Instagram

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          #19
          Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
          I would reuse everything. Unless you don't have the updated diff bolts yet.
          I’ll be doing my subframe reinforcement this winter as well. I’m pretty sure my sub frame has never been dropped. I have an 01 M3 when did these updated diff bolts come into play.


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            #20
            Originally posted by jpiazzam3 View Post

            I’ll be doing my subframe reinforcement this winter as well. I’m pretty sure my sub frame has never been dropped. I have an 01 M3 when did these updated diff bolts come into play.


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            I *think* the updated diff. bolts came into being after E46 M3 production had ended, but I could be wrong. My 6/2004 did not have them fwiw.
            2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
            Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
            Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

            OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
            RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

            2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
            Instagram

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              #21
              I am at the re-assembly stage of this job (epoxy vincebar and skinz). I replaced almost every piece of hardware in the back of the car - I have a weird disorder when it comes to fasteners. I know a guy at one of the local dealers and he took pretty good care of me on this stuff. The crazy expensive axle bolts were painful, but when I thought about how much I had already spent I figured in for a penny - in for a pound. One thing I discovered when shopping all the parts is that FCP does not offer much of a deal on hardware, so it may pay to shop around.

              If you have a complete shopping list with part numbers call your local dealer and ask for wholesale parts. Let them know you have a list of part numbers that you would like to email them for a quote. Let them know you are restoring the car and there will be more in the future, so you would like a wholesale price. Offer to pay in advance, and assure them that you will not return anything. You may have to try more than one, but one of your local dealers will likely offer you something as good or better than ECS. I manage a dealership parts dept (not BMW), and we get calls like this once in a while. We are happy to give 20% off on a good sized order, especially if we don't have to look up any of it or deliver it. All that said, if you are in a small market with only one dealer then they will likely do nothing for you. I am in Atlanta and there are five dealers here. Three of them are very active in the wholesale business and there is plenty of wheeling and dealing.

              Jesse
              Old, not obsolete.

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                #22
                May I also suggest the following two websites for OEM parts. I've have very good fortune ordering from both places when needing Genuine BMW parts.

                Your Source for Genuine OEM BMW Parts and Accessories at Discount Prices with Free Shipping! We Ship Anywhere in the USA with Customer Support 5 Days a Week.


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                  #23
                  Makes me wonder at what point will it be better to go to McMaster and order similarly spec’d high grade fasteners. For now I’d rather just get the OEM stuff, but they’re getting expensive.

                  FCP had the best prices and selection I could find for plastic clips, body nuts, that sort of thing. eEuro is also good.

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