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The carbon slicktop thread

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  • eXpensiveGears
    replied
    answered.

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by ac427 View Post
    I think the CSL roof only saved a couple of kilogrammes.
    Is the weight of this carbon roof unknown?
    It will vary depending on how the roof is made. My roof is 5.4 lbs so I'm saving 22lbs. I think most roofs are between 7-9lbs. Again, varies based on who is making the roof and what their layup schedule is.

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  • ac427
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

    The OE panel is 18.4lbs minus whatever the carbon part weighs.
    I think the CSL roof only saved a couple of kilogrammes.
    Is the weight of this carbon roof unknown?

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by ac427 View Post
    What is the weight saving on a non-sunroof car?
    The OE panel is 18.4lbs minus whatever the carbon part weighs.

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  • ac427
    replied
    What is the weight saving on a non-sunroof car?

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    OEM slick top 18.4lbs
    OEM roof w/sunroof & shark fin - 24.5lbs
    Sunroof opening plug - 3lbs

    all carefully measured on my calibrated bathroom scale 🤣

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Wear a respirator if you cut/grind or even drill carbon. The dust is as bad as asbestos.

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  • SQ13
    replied
    Originally posted by CrisSilberGrau View Post

    Forgive the denseness but I'm still a bit confused. You're basically saying because of the lack of angle cut on the front of the karb roof, the panel does not sit as flush as it would if there was an angle cut like on the OEM panel, and thus might have adherence/gluing issues? Also the roof is an extra 7mm forwards because of it?
    Yes, installing as is would cause the roof to sit on top of the nub, which would cause a large gap between the roof and flat portion of the body. This would most likely cause issues with windshield install.

    You must do one of the following to prevent this:
    1. Grind down the nubs
    2. Cut roof corners at an angle like OE to clear the nubs

    No, the overhang is not due to the above..it’s a separate thing I noticed. The front lip just happens to be larger on the Karb roof. You can either leave it or cut the excess lip off. Only one person has documented cutting off the excess; after watching some vids and talking to some people who have installed the Karb roof, I’m pretty sure most people just leave it.

    The fitment of the roof is perfectly fine. The alignment of the exposed/raised portion of the roof lines up perfectly with the roof rails and pillars.

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  • CrisSilberGrau
    replied
    Originally posted by SQ13 View Post
    FYI for those who are installing a Karb roof… The corners on Karb roof are not cut at an angle like the OE and other aftermarket roofs. The angled cut allows the roof to clear a welded nub on each corner, and I believe it avoids contact with a layer of sheet metal for the A and C pillars (will confirm this tomorrow since apparently none of the pics I took contain fully exposed corners). If the second point is true, that means the roof will sit more flush with the body/bows. Additionally, there is 6-7 mm of overhang on the front edge of the roof.

    It’s kinda surprising that after looking thru this thread, other online posts, and in the vids I’ve seen for the Karb roof install, only one person mentioned the overhang and no one talked about the nubs. I think they ended up grinding down the nubs and leaving the overhang as is (except for the one forum member here), which I’m sure is fine. I’ve been tempted to do this as well to avoid the extra work of cutting carbon fiber lol.

    Anyways, the point of this post is to let future Karb roof installers know that Karb recommends cutting both the angles on the corners and the overhang. And to clamp the front and rear edges every 10-15 cm, especially if the roof is slightly raised at one corner. BMW’s official install instructions calls for five clamps each on front and rear edge….as long as you’re not using two clamps like I’ve seen some people do, you’ll probably be fine. Just follow either Karb’s or BMW’s instructions. And wear proper PPE if you end up cutting the roof—you do not want to inhale the CF dust and have fibrosed lungs.
    Forgive the denseness but I'm still a bit confused. You're basically saying because of the lack of angle cut on the front of the karb roof, the panel does not sit as flush as it would if there was an angle cut like on the OEM panel, and thus might have adherence/gluing issues? Also the roof is an extra 7mm forwards because of it?

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  • CrisSilberGrau
    replied
    Originally posted by Sid_E46 View Post
    Part of me wants to try having the roof painted in a sort of "fade" silver grey. From a distance it would seem to be paint matched to the car, but up-close, the weave shows through.

    Click image for larger version

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    How dare you...

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  • Cronenberged
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

    Not sure I understand?
    If any of the details from the OEM panel are imprinted in the CF panel. It looks like it, but the limited quality on the forum doesn’t show it. Mostly looking at the edges that will be in contact with the frame when adhering it.

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by Cronenberged View Post
    bigjae46 can you show depiction of how similar your CF roof is to the OEM panel.
    Not sure I understand?

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  • Cronenberged
    replied
    bigjae46 can you show depiction of how similar your CF roof is to the OEM panel.

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  • Sid_E46
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
    For those that used 3M Panel Bond...how many 200ml cartridges did you need?
    1 was more than enough.

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    For those that used 3M Panel Bond...how many 200ml cartridges did you need?

    Leave a comment:

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