The carbon slicktop thread

[lemoose]

It’s been a long time, Berli’s Auto Body in Pflugerville/Austin. It’s gonna cost you but their work was impeccable. It’s been 10 years…not sure if it’s gone downhill. Haven’t heard anything bad since.

i got my m5 repaired there from a curb incident and it was a borderline hack job…… abs sensor not torqued, wrong paint on the strut tower, oh, and they didnt seam seal some welds. I took it back to have them correct it and instead of taking the car apart again they simply repainted as much as they could on the strut tower and slapped on whatever seam sealer they could without disassembling.

ive been meaning to take it back but its pulling teeth with them to get them to do anything right on their dime (see above) and when they do agree to fix the work, its like the car goes into an black hole where things are wndlessly delayed because some VIPs bentley keeps on hopping you on the priority list.

[SQ13]

Yea I keep going back and forth on it. Of course I want to do it, and I know I wouldn't regret doing it. But the practical side of me sees other areas to spend the $$$ first.

That’s fair. What else do you need to do to your car?

Installing the roof during windshield replacement and while the interior has been taken apart for Vincebar and alcantara headliner conversion made sense to me. Knocking everything out at once. I’ve reached the point where the only major things I’ll want for the car in three months are CSL trunk, red interior, and Euro bumper (currently NLA).

[jet_dogg]

Yea I keep going back and forth on it. Of course I want to do it, and I know I wouldn't regret doing it. But the practical side of me sees other areas to spend the $$$ first.

Practical 😂

[Nate047]

Yea I keep going back and forth on it. Of course I want to do it, and I know I wouldn't regret doing it. But the practical side of me sees other areas to spend the $$$ first.

[SQ13]

I know right, it's basically like a nice set of wheels but they never have to be replaced (theoretically)

TBH the wait time is the killer for me right now. I don't know if I want to wait another couple months. Does anyone make a high quality panel that's more readily available?

When I called IND earlier this week, they said they have an RKP roof that just needs to be clear coated. Would be ready to ship in 1-2 weeks. Karb told me 8 weeks.

IMO, do it right the first time and skip the sunroof delete panel. My delete panel creaks all the time.

[SQ13]

Thin layer of adhesive should be enough to weather proof any exposed metal.

Also, good luck getting the BMW adhesive. I tried multiple places and was told by all of them that it's no longer available. Ordered SikaForce 7888 L10 (which is the same thing as the BMW stuff) from a Belgian vendor (only place I found that would ship to the US), but have yet to receive it. They supposedly are getting shipment in on the 5th of July and then they'll send it over.

I don't see why the epoxy/rivet method wouldn't work for the roof bow. I actually have a cf slon one in the garage for whenever I get around to doing this project and plan to epoxy it in. I was told by someone I trust with these sorts of things (Bry5on) that if the adhesive is good for CF-Steel, it's also good for Steel-Steel, so you should be good to use the same stuff for the roof and the roof bow. Here's the datasheet if you want to read through it: https://deu.sika.com/dms/getdocument...zc_GTjvGWhOTGY
And here's a cool paper I found earlier exploring the mechanical properties of the adhesive: https://www.researchgate.net/publica...ckness_on_the_

Oh and keep in mind that the shelf life of the adhesive is only six months.

Edit: One last thing. The TIS instructions for replacing the roof on a CSL have a ton of useful info for this job: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...1-roof/4K9opCv

Awesome, thanks for the info! I went ahead and ordered the SikaForce adhesive. I bet the BMW branded adhesive will be back in stock at around the same time as the SikaForce adhesive. Planning to do the install in August.

Good to know that epoxy + rivets should be fine for the bow. I’ll just do that instead of bringing in a mobile welder.

That TIS link isn’t working for me. Would you happen to have a PDF file of it or know where I can access it without having to pay a dumb amount of money? I’m curious how the CSL roof instructions compare to the F87 CF roof instructions.

[Nate047]

I know right, it's basically like a nice set of wheels but they never have to be replaced (theoretically)

TBH the wait time is the killer for me right now. I don't know if I want to wait another couple months. Does anyone make a high quality panel that's more readily available?

[EthanolTurbo]

Gotcha thanks

TBH I am on the fence about whether I do this, or just do the CF sunroof plug I have. Mainly do I want to add several thousand bucks and a few months if wait time to an already drawn out build…

Sunroof plug is pretty good. Do you want to spend $3500-4000 for a carbon roof? That's about what it's gonna cost.

[Nate047]

He mentioned above that he used a Karb roof. The $1500 is for labor alone.

Gotcha thanks

TBH I am on the fence about whether I do this, or just do the CF sunroof plug I have. Mainly do I want to add several thousand bucks and a few months if wait time to an already drawn out build…

[heinzboehmer]

Some questions for those who DIY’d the install.

What solvent can I safely use on the carbon panel and the exposed chassis metal after sanding/grinding?
Edit: The official BMW F87 CF roof install instructions call for the use of R1 cleaner for the metal (83192211217) and R2 cleaner for the carbon panel (83190417324)..should I just get these?
Edit 2: Per MSDS, R2 is just 70% isopropyl alcohol lol.

What tool(s) did y’all use to grind down the welds, as well as expose the metal prior to bonding?

How did y’all go about protecting the exposed metal from rust? Would a thin layer of the adhesive on all exposed metal be sufficient, or do I need to apply some kind of protectant on the exposed metal before I apply the adhesive? Fwiw, I’ll be using the OE adhesive. 83190417144

If I’m using a thin layer of OE adhesive to cover up the exposed metal using a brush (rather than using a separate sealant/protectant), should I still apply a bead of adhesive in a zigzag pattern afterwards to ensure the roof panel makes a good bond around the entire perimeter?

Any reason to avoid epoxying and riveting the roof bow on? I don’t have a welder.

Thin layer of adhesive should be enough to weather proof any exposed metal.

Also, good luck getting the BMW adhesive. I tried multiple places and was told by all of them that it's no longer available. Ordered SikaForce 7888 L10 (which is the same thing as the BMW stuff) from a Belgian vendor (only place I found that would ship to the US), but have yet to receive it. They supposedly are getting shipment in on the 5th of July and then they'll send it over.

I don't see why the epoxy/rivet method wouldn't work for the roof bow. I actually have a cf slon one in the garage for whenever I get around to doing this project and plan to epoxy it in. I was told by someone I trust with these sorts of things (Bry5on) that if the adhesive is good for CF-Steel, it's also good for Steel-Steel, so you should be good to use the same stuff for the roof and the roof bow. Here's the datasheet if you want to read through it: https://deu.sika.com/dms/getdocument...zc_GTjvGWhOTGY
And here's a cool paper I found earlier exploring the mechanical properties of the adhesive: https://www.researchgate.net/publica...ckness_on_the_

Oh and keep in mind that the shelf life of the adhesive is only six months.

Edit: One last thing. The TIS instructions for replacing the roof on a CSL have a ton of useful info for this job: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...1-roof/4K9opCv

[SQ13]

Some questions for those who DIY’d the install.

What solvent can I safely use on the carbon panel and the exposed chassis metal after sanding/grinding?
Edit: The official BMW F87 CF roof install instructions call for the use of R1 cleaner for the metal (83192211217) and R2 cleaner for the carbon panel (83190417324)..should I just get these?
Edit 2: Per MSDS, R2 is just 70% isopropyl alcohol lol.

What tool(s) did y’all use to grind down the welds, as well as expose the metal prior to bonding?

How did y’all go about protecting the exposed metal from rust? Would a thin layer of the adhesive on all exposed metal be sufficient, or do I need to apply some kind of protectant on the exposed metal before I apply the adhesive? Fwiw, I’ll be using the OE adhesive. 83190417144

If I’m using a thin layer of OE adhesive to cover up the exposed metal using a brush (rather than using a separate sealant/protectant), should I still apply a bead of adhesive in a zigzag pattern afterwards to ensure the roof panel makes a good bond around the entire perimeter?

Any reason to avoid epoxying and riveting the roof bow on? I don’t have a welder.

[Epsilon]

Nice, is the roof one of their own panels? Or if not, which panel is it?

He mentioned above that he used a Karb roof. The $1500 is for labor alone.

[Nate047]

$1500 for the roof + a couple hundred to install new ABC trim panels and the slicktop headliner. They charge 1500 to do the roof only and usually put the CF roofs in race cars so the interior work is a little extra.

Nice, is the roof one of their own panels? Or if not, which panel is it?

[SQ13]

Yeah this is definitely one of those “do it right the first time/don’t fuck it up” kinda jobs bc I do not want to have to go back and replace the CF roof. So either a very experienced shop will touch the car, or I will DIY and take my time.

The project doesn’t seem too bad. I have a windshield guy who is open to making two trips for $540 + windshield + moulding. Will also need to find a mobile welder to weld in the roof bow and get the rails painted. I think I can do the rest of the work.

Talked to some folks but ultimately decided to DIY. If I can’t trust someone with a simple job like replacing the clutch (currently dealing with trans issues due to this), then I’ll never be at ease with a major job like CF roof install unless I shipped the car to a highly reputable shop. At least I can take my time and ensure I’m doing everything right, and if I fuck up, it’ll be my own fault.

Most likely going with a Karb roof. I may also order their CSL trunk.

[bigjae46]

It’s been a long time, Berli’s Auto Body in Pflugerville/Austin. It’s gonna cost you but their work was impeccable. It’s been 10 years…not sure if it’s gone downhill. Haven’t heard anything bad since.

Soul Speed in Austin
Texas Track Works, Greg Smith Racing, or Clownshoe in DFW.

The only shop in Houston I’d trust to ever touch my car is Jim Berg at MSR Houston in the Houston area. I’d probably go there if I were you.