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The carbon slicktop thread
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IIRC, I just plugged the holes and called it a day. The drains are [obviously] useless on a slicktop.
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Godspeed. Keep us posted fellow LSBer.Originally posted by bavarian3 View PostHad a professional come today. Very happy with the service. No power tools, hacking, or banging up interior parts.
Both glass pieces came off cleanly. Will be replacing the front anyways.
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Had a professional come today. Very happy with the service. No power tools, hacking, or banging up interior parts.
Both glass pieces came off cleanly. Will be replacing the front anyways.
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It's not that hard with the right tools, even with the wrong tools it can be done . I replaced the windshield on my e36 myself, granted it was already shattered, so I didn't have to worry about cracking it, but it was no worse once I got it out. Install was fairly straight forward, clean all the old adhesive out, clean, prep, and lay an even bead of adhesive, install the reveal around the glass and lay it in there. There were little rubber nubs on the frame to ensure it's spaced correctly, then throw a couple pieces of painter's tape on the top edge to keep it from sliding down till cured. No issues in the last 3-4 years since I did it.
On the e46, it was at the bodyshop for paint, so I had them install the carbon roof, they had a glass guy. I seriously considered DIYing that too.
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Appreciate the input. I'm starting this project in a couple weeks.
Any particular guidance you all would recommend to provide the glass installer to ensure they don't screw it up on removal or install. Mainly concerned with some of the power tools i've seen to remove glass, alignment, and sealing on install
bigjae46 Tonggi oceansize Casa de Mesa
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I've done the roll cage, built the diff, replace the engine, 5 speed conversion, literally I've performed all of the labor and built most of my own parts - the only thing I have farmed out is body work and windshield R&R.Originally posted by bavarian3 View PostAnother couple question.
1. Why do body shops contract out the glass(front and rear windshield) work? What's the limiting factor that makes it need a specialist.
2. Has anyone tried saving some dough by DIY'ing the windshield removal? It seems like a mild pain, but pretty easy. My front glass will need replacement anyways (rear is in good shape).
Windshields are a black art. You can screw it up easily and you have to do 5-10 windshields to make up for 1 botched one. Kind of entertaining matching the big box places like safelite do the job. I wonder how those techs make money. The key is to find an independent guy that's been doing it for awhile, we will take 10 min and do it perfectly like Tonggi mentioned.
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I found a local guy who travels and does insurance glass work. I paid him to just remove my glass and reinstall. $85 a pop. He did it in like 10 mins. dude was a beast.Originally posted by bavarian3 View PostAnother couple question.
1. Why do body shops contract out the glass(front and rear windshield) work? What's the limiting factor that makes it need a specialist.
2. Has anyone tried saving some dough by DIY'ing the windshield removal? It seems like a mild pain, but pretty easy. My front glass will need replacement anyways (rear is in good shape).
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Worked in a body shop. Hassle isn’t wanted and glass sitting around is getting broken. Dem boys ain’t gentle.
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Removing glass is significantly harder than you'd imagine, especially on older adhesive. My bet is body shops don't want the hassle.Originally posted by bavarian3 View PostAnother couple question.
1. Why do body shops contract out the glass(front and rear windshield) work? What's the limiting factor that makes it need a specialist.
2. Has anyone tried saving some dough by DIY'ing the windshield removal? It seems like a mild pain, but pretty easy. My front glass will need replacement anyways (rear is in good shape).
When I had my front glass removed to spray the car, the glass installer (not the body shop) installed the incorrect weather strip that frames the windshield. But I didn't realize it until the rolling chassis was back at my house. So I had a mobile vendor come to pull the glass and install the correct BMW trim / weatherstrip. The vendor that came was 1) very detail oriented 2) NOT from Safelite 3) an independent glass guy with fantastic tools and 25 years in the biz. He warned me that there was a 50/50 chance that the brand new fancy IR windshield that was just installed a week earlier would crack upon removal, as the original windshield did that was removed from the car to do the paintwork.
It didn't crack, but even with his pro-quality tools, there is no way I'd want to try that job. You just can't fake experience with some jobs.
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Another couple question.
1. Why do body shops contract out the glass(front and rear windshield) work? What's the limiting factor that makes it need a specialist.
2. Has anyone tried saving some dough by DIY'ing the windshield removal? It seems like a mild pain, but pretty easy. My front glass will need replacement anyways (rear is in good shape).
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Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post
dynamat makes a few different products including a roofliner. that being said, went with the oe stuff. makes a big difference even just tapping on the roof. would definitely not run it without something to dampen the noise
Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post
OEM is what I went with. If I were going to skip it due to price or availability, I'd go with an adhesive backed melamine foam made for cars. I'd rather absorb the sound than dampen it from above, simply because of the weight.
Noted. Went ahead and ordered it while it's still around.
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OEM is what I went with. If I were going to skip it due to price or availability, I'd go with an adhesive backed melamine foam made for cars. I'd rather absorb the sound than dampen it from above, simply because of the weight.Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
Yeah though dynamat is quite heavy. Just curious if those without it noticed increased road noise. Hard to imagine it does much with how light and airy it is.
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dynamat makes a few different products including a roofliner. that being said, went with the oe stuff. makes a big difference even just tapping on the roof. would definitely not run it without something to dampen the noiseOriginally posted by bavarian3 View Post
Yeah though dynamat is quite heavy. Just curious if those without it noticed increased road noise. Hard to imagine it does much with how light and airy it is.
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Yeah though dynamat is quite heavy. Just curious if those without it noticed increased road noise. Hard to imagine it does much with how light and airy it is.Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post
Used the OE foam. But im sure you can use dynamat for example.....
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