The carbon slicktop thread

[Nate047]

Nooooooo leave it

[Sid_E46]

Part of me wants to try having the roof painted in a sort of "fade" silver grey. From a distance it would seem to be paint matched to the car, but up-close, the weave shows through.

[0-60motorsports]

1x1 spread tow roof completed! 5.6lbs. Straight out of the mold, no clear coat. Weighed a slick top roof panel - 18.4 lbs.

It feels a little stiffer than the OE roof when trying to twist the roof diagonally.

That weave looks so sexy! Nice work brother.

[bigjae46]

1x1 spread tow roof completed! 5.6lbs. Straight out of the mold, no clear coat. Weighed a slick top roof panel - 18.4 lbs.

It feels a little stiffer than the OE roof when trying to twist the roof diagonally.

[SQ13]

Lol I did all of the above and still struggled with it. Def not a quick job for me 🙃 i followed the instructions but my technique was probably poor. Glad it’s over now

[heinzboehmer]

1) the bit walking off

Did you center punch the spot welds? I bet that helps a lot with the walking.

[Sid_E46]

Yeah I think it’s just for alignment purposes. With the Karb roof, I’m temporarily snapping in the original roof rails, as well as measuring the front and rear edges all the way across, to help make sure it stays square.



I did use the Blair bit with a Milwaukee drill and constantly struggled with 1) the bit walking off and 2) having to apply a ton of downward pressure to get it to cut. Maybe I wasn’t doing it right. Would like to hear how you did three sides in 30 mins lol.

Agreed. Belt sander with 3M 80 grit belt was very efficient for removing the protruding spot welds and cleaning up the surfaces, and I would highly recommend it. It would likely work well to grind down the spot welds if using the Blair spot weld drill bit isn’t desired…just need to be careful and not go too deep.

You need to use some cutting fluid and also use relatively light force initially so that the guide bit can have a divot to follow. One the divot is formed, you can press down harder so that the spot weld cutter can make contact with the metal.

[SQ13]

Yeah I think it’s just for alignment purposes. With the Karb roof, I’m temporarily snapping in the original roof rails, as well as measuring the front and rear edges all the way across, to help make sure it stays square.

I was using a Neiko spot weld cutter and went through 3 bits on one side on top of taking forever. Switched to the Blair spot weld cutter and went through the other 3 sides in like 30 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Blair-11096-Cutter-Set/dp/B002XML5HK?th=1

Also used a cheap Harbor Freight bandfile to clean up the surfaces. Made the process super easy.

https://www.harborfreight.com/53-amp...der-58155.html

I did use the Blair bit with a Milwaukee drill and constantly struggled with 1) the bit walking off and 2) having to apply a ton of downward pressure to get it to cut. Maybe I wasn’t doing it right. Would like to hear how you did three sides in 30 mins lol.

Agreed. Belt sander with 3M 80 grit belt was very efficient for removing the protruding spot welds and cleaning up the surfaces, and I would highly recommend it. It would likely work well to grind down the spot welds if using the Blair spot weld drill bit isn’t desired…just need to be careful and not go too deep.

[Sid_E46]

This shit sucks ass lol

I was using a Neiko spot weld cutter and went through 3 bits on one side on top of taking forever. Switched to the Blair spot weld cutter and went through the other 3 sides in like 30 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Blair-11096-Cutter-Set/dp/B002XML5HK?th=1

Also used a cheap Harbor Freight bandfile to clean up the surfaces. Made the process super easy.

https://www.harborfreight.com/53-amp-12-in-x-18-in-bandfile-belt-sander-58155.html

[Cronenberged]

I would assume the nubs were an alignment thing for the roof panels.

[Sid_E46]

FYI for those who are installing a Karb roof… The corners on Karb roof are not cut at an angle like the OE and other aftermarket roofs. The angled cut allows the roof to clear a welded nub on each corner, and I believe it avoids contact with a layer of sheet metal for the A and C pillars (will confirm this tomorrow since apparently none of the pics I took contain fully exposed corners). If the second point is true, that means the roof will sit more flush with the body/bows. Additionally, there is 6-7 mm of overhang on the front edge of the roof.

It’s kinda surprising that after looking thru this thread, other online posts, and in the vids I’ve seen for the Karb roof install, only one person mentioned the overhang and no one talked about the nubs. I think they ended up grinding down the nubs and leaving the overhang as is (except for the one forum member here), which I’m sure is fine. I’ve been tempted to do this as well to avoid the extra work of cutting carbon fiber lol.

Anyways, the point of this post is to let future Karb roof installers know that Karb recommends cutting both the angles on the corners and the overhang. And to clamp the front and rear edges every 10-15 cm, especially if the roof is slightly raised at one corner. BMW’s official install instructions calls for five clamps each on front and rear edge….as long as you’re not using two clamps like I’ve seen some people do, you’ll probably be fine. Just follow either Karb’s or BMW’s instructions. And wear proper PPE if you end up cutting the roof—you do not want to inhale the CF dust and have fibrosed lungs.

I did notice this as well and just ended up grinding down the nubs.

[SQ13]

FYI for those who are installing a Karb roof… The corners on Karb roof are not cut at an angle like the OE and other aftermarket roofs. The angled cut allows the roof to clear a welded nub on each corner, and I believe it avoids contact with a layer of sheet metal for the A and C pillars (will confirm this tomorrow since apparently none of the pics I took contain fully exposed corners). If the second point is true, that means the roof will sit more flush with the body/bows. Additionally, there is 6-7 mm of overhang on the front edge of the roof.

It’s kinda surprising that after looking thru this thread, other online posts, and in the vids I’ve seen for the Karb roof install, only one person mentioned the overhang and no one talked about the nubs. I think they ended up grinding down the nubs and leaving the overhang as is (except for the one forum member here), which I’m sure is fine. I’ve been tempted to do this as well to avoid the extra work of cutting carbon fiber lol.

Anyways, the point of this post is to let future Karb roof installers know that Karb recommends cutting both the angles on the corners and the overhang. And to clamp the front and rear edges every 10-15 cm, especially if the roof is slightly raised at one corner. BMW’s official install instructions calls for five clamps each on front and rear edge….as long as you’re not using two clamps like I’ve seen some people do, you’ll probably be fine. Just follow either Karb’s or BMW’s instructions. And wear proper PPE if you end up cutting the roof—you do not want to inhale the CF dust and have fibrosed lungs.

[Nate047]

When there’s a will there’s a way! Huge day for myself and my OEM LSB CSL tribute build. Thank you to the special person who made this all happen , you know who you are.

Would love to know the story here and how much it cost you lol.

[0-60motorsports]

That's awesome!

[bigjae46]

Almost there. Mold using a brand new OEM roof panel
is cured, sanded, and polished.

Just waiting for some more carbon cloth to arrive.