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  • SQ13
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    Thin layer of adhesive should be enough to weather proof any exposed metal.

    Also, good luck getting the BMW adhesive. I tried multiple places and was told by all of them that it's no longer available. Ordered SikaForce 7888 L10 (which is the same thing as the BMW stuff) from a Belgian vendor (only place I found that would ship to the US), but have yet to receive it. They supposedly are getting shipment in on the 5th of July and then they'll send it over.

    I don't see why the epoxy/rivet method wouldn't work for the roof bow. I actually have a cf slon one in the garage for whenever I get around to doing this project and plan to epoxy it in. I was told by someone I trust with these sorts of things (Bry5on) that if the adhesive is good for CF-Steel, it's also good for Steel-Steel, so you should be good to use the same stuff for the roof and the roof bow. Here's the datasheet if you want to read through it: https://deu.sika.com/dms/getdocument...zc_GTjvGWhOTGY
    And here's a cool paper I found earlier exploring the mechanical properties of the adhesive: https://www.researchgate.net/publica...ckness_on_the_

    Oh and keep in mind that the shelf life of the adhesive is only six months.

    Edit: One last thing. The TIS instructions for replacing the roof on a CSL have a ton of useful info for this job: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...1-roof/4K9opCv
    Awesome, thanks for the info! I went ahead and ordered the SikaForce adhesive. I bet the BMW branded adhesive will be back in stock at around the same time as the SikaForce adhesive. Planning to do the install in August.

    Good to know that epoxy + rivets should be fine for the bow. I’ll just do that instead of bringing in a mobile welder.

    That TIS link isn’t working for me. Would you happen to have a PDF file of it or know where I can access it without having to pay a dumb amount of money? I’m curious how the CSL roof instructions compare to the F87 CF roof instructions.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nate047
    replied
    I know right, it's basically like a nice set of wheels but they never have to be replaced (theoretically)

    TBH the wait time is the killer for me right now. I don't know if I want to wait another couple months. Does anyone make a high quality panel that's more readily available?

    Leave a comment:


  • EthanolTurbo
    replied
    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

    Gotcha thanks

    TBH I am on the fence about whether I do this, or just do the CF sunroof plug I have. Mainly do I want to add several thousand bucks and a few months if wait time to an already drawn out build…
    Sunroof plug is pretty good. Do you want to spend $3500-4000 for a carbon roof? That's about what it's gonna cost.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nate047
    replied
    Originally posted by Epsilon View Post

    He mentioned above that he used a Karb roof. The $1500 is for labor alone.
    Gotcha thanks

    TBH I am on the fence about whether I do this, or just do the CF sunroof plug I have. Mainly do I want to add several thousand bucks and a few months if wait time to an already drawn out build…

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by SQ13 View Post
    Some questions for those who DIY’d the install.

    What solvent can I safely use on the carbon panel and the exposed chassis metal after sanding/grinding?
    Edit: The official BMW F87 CF roof install instructions call for the use of R1 cleaner for the metal (83192211217) and R2 cleaner for the carbon panel (83190417324​)..should I just get these?
    Edit 2: Per MSDS, R2 is just 70% isopropyl alcohol lol.

    What tool(s) did y’all use to grind down the welds, as well as expose the metal prior to bonding?

    How did y’all go about protecting the exposed metal from rust? Would a thin layer of the adhesive on all exposed metal be sufficient, or do I need to apply some kind of protectant on the exposed metal before I apply the adhesive? Fwiw, I’ll be using the OE adhesive. 83190417144​

    If I’m using a thin layer of OE adhesive to cover up the exposed metal using a brush (rather than using a separate sealant/protectant), should I still apply a bead of adhesive in a zigzag pattern afterwards to ensure the roof panel makes a good bond around the entire perimeter?

    Any reason to avoid epoxying and riveting the roof bow on? I don’t have a welder.
    Thin layer of adhesive should be enough to weather proof any exposed metal.

    Also, good luck getting the BMW adhesive. I tried multiple places and was told by all of them that it's no longer available. Ordered SikaForce 7888 L10 (which is the same thing as the BMW stuff) from a Belgian vendor (only place I found that would ship to the US), but have yet to receive it. They supposedly are getting shipment in on the 5th of July and then they'll send it over.

    I don't see why the epoxy/rivet method wouldn't work for the roof bow. I actually have a cf slon one in the garage for whenever I get around to doing this project and plan to epoxy it in. I was told by someone I trust with these sorts of things (Bry5on) that if the adhesive is good for CF-Steel, it's also good for Steel-Steel, so you should be good to use the same stuff for the roof and the roof bow. Here's the datasheet if you want to read through it: https://deu.sika.com/dms/getdocument...zc_GTjvGWhOTGY
    And here's a cool paper I found earlier exploring the mechanical properties of the adhesive: https://www.researchgate.net/publica...ckness_on_the_

    Oh and keep in mind that the shelf life of the adhesive is only six months.

    Edit: One last thing. The TIS instructions for replacing the roof on a CSL have a ton of useful info for this job: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...1-roof/4K9opCv
    Last edited by heinzboehmer; 06-09-2023, 06:49 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • SQ13
    replied
    Some questions for those who DIY’d the install.

    What solvent can I safely use on the carbon panel and the exposed chassis metal after sanding/grinding?
    Edit: The official BMW F87 CF roof install instructions call for the use of R1 cleaner for the metal (83192211217) and R2 cleaner for the carbon panel (83190417324​)..should I just get these?
    Edit 2: Per MSDS, R2 is just 70% isopropyl alcohol lol.

    What tool(s) did y’all use to grind down the welds, as well as expose the metal prior to bonding?

    How did y’all go about protecting the exposed metal from rust? Would a thin layer of the adhesive on all exposed metal be sufficient, or do I need to apply some kind of protectant on the exposed metal before I apply the adhesive? Fwiw, I’ll be using the OE adhesive. 83190417144​

    If I’m using a thin layer of OE adhesive to cover up the exposed metal using a brush (rather than using a separate sealant/protectant), should I still apply a bead of adhesive in a zigzag pattern afterwards to ensure the roof panel makes a good bond around the entire perimeter?

    Any reason to avoid epoxying and riveting the roof bow on? I don’t have a welder.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by SQ13; 06-09-2023, 05:50 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Epsilon
    replied
    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

    Nice, is the roof one of their own panels? Or if not, which panel is it?
    He mentioned above that he used a Karb roof. The $1500 is for labor alone.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nate047
    replied
    Originally posted by AWE46M3 View Post

    $1500 for the roof + a couple hundred to install new ABC trim panels and the slicktop headliner. They charge 1500 to do the roof only and usually put the CF roofs in race cars so the interior work is a little extra.
    Nice, is the roof one of their own panels? Or if not, which panel is it?

    Leave a comment:


  • SQ13
    replied
    Originally posted by SQ13 View Post

    Yeah this is definitely one of those “do it right the first time/don’t fuck it up” kinda jobs bc I do not want to have to go back and replace the CF roof. So either a very experienced shop will touch the car, or I will DIY and take my time.

    The project doesn’t seem too bad. I have a windshield guy who is open to making two trips for $540 + windshield + moulding. Will also need to find a mobile welder to weld in the roof bow and get the rails painted. I think I can do the rest of the work.
    Talked to some folks but ultimately decided to DIY. If I can’t trust someone with a simple job like replacing the clutch (currently dealing with trans issues due to this), then I’ll never be at ease with a major job like CF roof install unless I shipped the car to a highly reputable shop. At least I can take my time and ensure I’m doing everything right, and if I fuck up, it’ll be my own fault.

    Most likely going with a Karb roof. I may also order their CSL trunk.

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    It’s been a long time, Berli’s Auto Body in Pflugerville/Austin. It’s gonna cost you but their work was impeccable. It’s been 10 years…not sure if it’s gone downhill. Haven’t heard anything bad since.

    Soul Speed in Austin
    Texas Track Works, Greg Smith Racing, or Clownshoe in DFW.

    The only shop in Houston I’d trust to ever touch my car is Jim Berg at MSR Houston in the Houston area. I’d probably go there if I were you.
    Last edited by bigjae46; 06-05-2023, 06:53 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • SQ13
    replied
    Originally posted by Slideways View Post

    For a major job like this, only go with a shop you can prove has done many installs. If possible, find an example to inspect in person. The last thing you want is for them to experiment on your car and skip something in the installation instructions. There is a video of a Karb CSL roof that had to be removed due to a defect and the fact that the shop installed it slightly crooked to the point where the roof rail fitment was off.

    George Hill might know a place in TX
    Yeah this is definitely one of those “do it right the first time/don’t fuck it up” kinda jobs bc I do not want to have to go back and replace the CF roof. So either a very experienced shop will touch the car, or I will DIY and take my time.

    The project doesn’t seem too bad. I have a windshield guy who is open to making two trips for $540 + windshield + moulding. Will also need to find a mobile welder to weld in the roof bow and get the rails painted. I think I can do the rest of the work.

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by SQ13 View Post
    Any recs for a shop in Texas that has done CF roof installs on the E46? The car lives in Houston, but for a job like this I don’t mind traveling for quality work.

    Either that or I just suck it up and DIY the install, and hope that I don’t screw it up.
    For a major job like this, only go with a shop you can prove has done many installs. If possible, find an example to inspect in person. The last thing you want is for them to experiment on your car and skip something in the installation instructions. There is a video of a Karb CSL roof that had to be removed due to a defect and the fact that the shop installed it slightly crooked to the point where the roof rail fitment was off.

    George Hill might know a place in TX

    Leave a comment:


  • SQ13
    replied
    Any recs for a shop in Texas that has done CF roof installs on the E46? The car lives in Houston, but for a job like this I don’t mind traveling for quality work.

    Either that or I just suck it up and DIY the install, and hope that I don’t screw it up.

    Leave a comment:


  • AWE46M3
    replied
    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

    How much was the installation in total? I found their rate-to-quality ratio to be very reasonable on some paint work they did for me.
    $1500 for the roof + a couple hundred to install new ABC trim panels and the slicktop headliner. They charge 1500 to do the roof only and usually put the CF roofs in race cars so the interior work is a little extra.


    Originally posted by gohdunlam View Post

    wow that looks clean
    Thank you 🤝

    Leave a comment:


  • gohdunlam
    replied
    Originally posted by AWE46M3 View Post
    Finally got my Karb roof installed thanks to Kings Auto Body in Huntington Beach. The weave on the roof is exceptional. No QC issues to note for the clear coat or finish. The roof is getting Suntek PPF done this week. I had a chance to look at Xpel and Suntek on CF roofs and prefer Suntek due to the smoothness of the film whereas Xpel is more heavy-duty and comes with a noticeable orange peel.

    Huge shout out to Tbonem3 for the glam shots. The iPhone 14 Pro would not have done this justice.


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    Click image for larger version Name:	nick+sge46 (8).jpg Views:	0 Size:	29.9 KB ID:	219933
    wow that looks clean

    Leave a comment:

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