If the engine does shut down, from what I'm seeing, it would be after 30 seconds of being on. The DME ties oil level and the amount of loss every 100ms. It measures this with engine speed and pressure. It's a fact some manufacturers shut engines down with low oil pressure. I believe a certain set of parameters have to be met and the actual fault codes must be present for oil loss, low oil pressure and a deviation in rpms. Vanos will not activate until the measurement process has begun, so at least 30 seconds after a start. It doesn't mention a difference between cold and warm starts so maybe both. There is nothing stating specifically that the engine will shut down due to oil pressure however. I just think the engine has a hard time running without it.
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This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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Makes sense.Originally posted by Arith2 View PostIf the engine does shut down, from what I'm seeing, it would be after 30 seconds of being on. The DME ties oil level and the amount of loss every 100ms. It measures this with engine speed and pressure. It's a fact some manufacturers shut engines down with low oil pressure. I believe a certain set of parameters have to be met and the actual fault codes must be present for oil loss, low oil pressure and a deviation in rpms. Vanos will not activate until the measurement process has begun, so at least 30 seconds after a start. It doesn't mention a difference between cold and warm starts so maybe both. There is nothing stating specifically that the engine will shut down due to oil pressure however. I just think the engine has a hard time running without it.
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In your situation, I think downshifting shut your car off which potentially saved the motor.Originally posted by GreyM340i View Post
Makes sense.This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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There’s no engine shut off feature for low oil.
Red oil light means low oil pressure— means the level got low enough that the oil pump was sucking air.
there was never a yellow oil light? That indicates a low oil level, which should have happened first.
sub optimal.
2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
2012 LMB/Black 128i
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No never noticed a yellow light. Just saw the red oil light and then the car shut off.Originally posted by Obioban View PostThere’s no engine shut off feature for low oil.
Red oil light means low oil pressure— means the level got low enough that the oil pump was sucking air.
there was never a yellow oil light? That indicates a low oil level, which should have happened first.
sub optimal.
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Maybe the drain bolt just fell off — too quick for the yellow light to be seen and the red light took over.Originally posted by GreyM340i View Post
No never noticed a yellow light. Just saw the red oil light and then the car shut off.
Too bad we don’t know if for sure the drain bolt missing or not.
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They said it was there when they got it back however not tightened correctly. Who knows if they’re telling the truth.Originally posted by sapote View Post
Maybe the drain bolt just fell off — too quick for the yellow light to be seen and the red light took over.
Too bad we don’t know if for sure the drain bolt missing or not.
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It looked like a loose drain plug in the pictures.Originally posted by GreyM340i View Post
They said it was there when they got it back however not tightened correctly. Who knows if they’re telling the truth.This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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A loose drain WILL drip that much especially when it starts backing out I doubt you ran dry, just low enough to pop the light. I would absolutely get those rod bearings changed as a safety measure because no one knows the damage, not even a pointless oil analysis lab, without actually looking. I've never seen vacuum hold oil in. The vacuum is only at idle anyways.Originally posted by GreyM340i View Post
Didn’t see a drain bolt. The dealer is 12 miles from my house.This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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I’m still going to do the Blackstone test and see what they say just incase the dealer will be at fault for excessive metal in the oil. If its normal then in the spring/summer I will be getting the rod bearings done along with the subframe.Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
A loose drain WILL drip that much especially when it starts backing out I doubt you ran dry, just low enough to pop the light. I would absolutely get those rod bearings changed as a safety measure because no one knows the damage, not even a pointless oil analysis lab, without actually looking. I've never seen vacuum hold oil in. The vacuum is only at idle anyways.
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