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Nightmare dealer situation (Updated)

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    If the engine does shut down, from what I'm seeing, it would be after 30 seconds of being on. The DME ties oil level and the amount of loss every 100ms. It measures this with engine speed and pressure. It's a fact some manufacturers shut engines down with low oil pressure. I believe a certain set of parameters have to be met and the actual fault codes must be present for oil loss, low oil pressure and a deviation in rpms. Vanos will not activate until the measurement process has begun, so at least 30 seconds after a start. It doesn't mention a difference between cold and warm starts so maybe both. There is nothing stating specifically that the engine will shut down due to oil pressure however. I just think the engine has a hard time running without it.
    This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
    https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

    "Do it right once or do it twice"

    Comment


      Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
      If the engine does shut down, from what I'm seeing, it would be after 30 seconds of being on. The DME ties oil level and the amount of loss every 100ms. It measures this with engine speed and pressure. It's a fact some manufacturers shut engines down with low oil pressure. I believe a certain set of parameters have to be met and the actual fault codes must be present for oil loss, low oil pressure and a deviation in rpms. Vanos will not activate until the measurement process has begun, so at least 30 seconds after a start. It doesn't mention a difference between cold and warm starts so maybe both. There is nothing stating specifically that the engine will shut down due to oil pressure however. I just think the engine has a hard time running without it.
      Makes sense.

      Comment


        Originally posted by GreyM340i View Post

        Makes sense.
        In your situation, I think downshifting shut your car off which potentially saved the motor.
        This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
        https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

        "Do it right once or do it twice"

        Comment


          Originally posted by Arith2 View Post

          In your situation, I think downshifting shut your car off which potentially saved the motor.
          Very well could of happened. Have driven it a few times and so far seems ok. Need to drive it more just have garbage weather her in IL right now.

          Comment


            There’s no engine shut off feature for low oil.

            Red oil light means low oil pressure— means the level got low enough that the oil pump was sucking air.

            there was never a yellow oil light? That indicates a low oil level, which should have happened first.

            sub optimal.

            2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
            2012 LMB/Black 128i
            2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

            Comment


              Originally posted by Obioban View Post
              There’s no engine shut off feature for low oil.

              Red oil light means low oil pressure— means the level got low enough that the oil pump was sucking air.

              there was never a yellow oil light? That indicates a low oil level, which should have happened first.

              sub optimal.
              No never noticed a yellow light. Just saw the red oil light and then the car shut off.

              Comment


                Originally posted by GreyM340i View Post

                No never noticed a yellow light. Just saw the red oil light and then the car shut off.
                Maybe the drain bolt just fell off — too quick for the yellow light to be seen and the red light took over.
                Too bad we don’t know if for sure the drain bolt missing or not.

                Comment


                  Originally posted by sapote View Post

                  Maybe the drain bolt just fell off — too quick for the yellow light to be seen and the red light took over.
                  Too bad we don’t know if for sure the drain bolt missing or not.
                  They said it was there when they got it back however not tightened correctly. Who knows if they’re telling the truth.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by GreyM340i View Post

                    They said it was there when they got it back however not tightened correctly. Who knows if they’re telling the truth.
                    It looked like a loose drain plug in the pictures.
                    This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                    https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                    "Do it right once or do it twice"

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by Arith2 View Post

                      It looked like a loose drain plug in the pictures.
                      What picture?
                      A loose bolt could not empty the oil this fast with a negative pressure in the pan.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by sapote View Post
                        What picture?
                        A loose bolt could not empty the oil this fast with a negative pressure in the pan.
                        I think he’s talking about the pictures I posted on the first page of this thread. Oil was dripping out after I stopped.

                        Comment


                          We’re you sure it’s drain bolt in that dark pic?
                          Total miles from dealer to red oil light?

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by sapote View Post
                            We’re you sure it’s drain bolt in that dark pic?
                            Total miles from dealer to red oil light?
                            Didn’t see a drain bolt. The dealer is 12 miles from my house.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by GreyM340i View Post

                              Didn’t see a drain bolt. The dealer is 12 miles from my house.
                              A loose drain WILL drip that much especially when it starts backing out I doubt you ran dry, just low enough to pop the light. I would absolutely get those rod bearings changed as a safety measure because no one knows the damage, not even a pointless oil analysis lab, without actually looking. I've never seen vacuum hold oil in. The vacuum is only at idle anyways.
                              This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                              https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                              "Do it right once or do it twice"

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Arith2 View Post

                                A loose drain WILL drip that much especially when it starts backing out I doubt you ran dry, just low enough to pop the light. I would absolutely get those rod bearings changed as a safety measure because no one knows the damage, not even a pointless oil analysis lab, without actually looking. I've never seen vacuum hold oil in. The vacuum is only at idle anyways.
                                I’m still going to do the Blackstone test and see what they say just incase the dealer will be at fault for excessive metal in the oil. If its normal then in the spring/summer I will be getting the rod bearings done along with the subframe.

                                Comment

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