Can A “Bad” Solenoid Pack Trigger EML?

[Advorsor]

Looked around but really didn’t find anything definitive..

If a solenoid has gone bad/going bad, is EML/Limp mode a possible symptom? I know EML usually refers to throttle/TBs/I etc but wondering if can be caused in this situation too.

Some observations on my car.

- My idle, while mostly stable typically sits 800-900RPM but every minute or so, the idle will quickly climb or drop +/-200 RPM in either direction then return to the 800-900 area
- Limp with EML (sometimes) comes on going from cruise speeds on highway to WOT. I have to pull over and turn engine off/then back on after 2-5 seconds
- Limp without EML (sometimes) comes on after decelerating from highway speeds towards slowing down when going off exit ramps. I do the same procedure above
- Finally, on COLD mornings, EML sometimes on right away when I turn the engine on. There will be weak acceleration if I apply gas. Solution here is typically wait to the engine warms up for a few minutes then turn car off/back on. Full power-band is usually restored.

Just trying to rule Solenoid out.

[Arinb12]

Looked around but really didn’t find anything definitive..

If a solenoid has gone bad/going bad, is EML/Limp mode a possible symptom? I know EML usually refers to throttle/TBs/I etc but wondering if can be caused in this situation too.

Some observations on my car.

- My idle, while mostly stable typically sits 800-900RPM but every minute or so, the idle will quickly climb or drop +/-200 RPM in either direction then return to the 800-900 area
- Limp with EML (sometimes) comes on going from cruise speeds on highway to WOT. I have to pull over and turn engine off/then back on after 2-5 seconds
- Limp without EML (sometimes) comes on after decelerating from highway speeds towards slowing down when going off exit ramps. I do the same procedure above
- Finally, on COLD mornings, EML sometimes on right away when I turn the engine on. There will be weak acceleration if I apply gas. Solution here is typically wait to the engine warms up for a few minutes then turn car off/back on. Full power-band is usually restored.

Just trying to rule Solenoid out.

Easier to remove solenoid pack and body then test continuity from the plug pins. Make sure both centre pins have continuity with the outer pins.

If yes, then usually the solenoid pack isn't the issue. But the solenoid valve body might be gummed up, remove that too, open each valve with magnets and blast brake cleaner through the holes.

That'll rule it out properly

[Shonky]

Reading fault codes is surely easier as a first step?