Installing CMP bushes w/o tool

[Cubieman]

I have read that a few people have simply put the aluminum CMP subframe bushings into the freezer overnight and used a MAP/Propane torch on the subframe and simply tapped them in, is this a viable option?

I don't want to run the risk of ruining the bushes and/or subframe of course but if it's easy as that OK, if not I'll need to get a proper tool comming as I'm ready to but my car back together finally.

[jet_dogg]

I would definitely pop the bushings in the freezer but I'm not sure what the best method would be to heat the receptacles and I don't know if you will be able to tap them in.

I do know thermal expansion is a real thing and it doesn't take a lot depending on how tight the tolerances are. Aluminum contracts and expands more than steel if I'm not mistaken which makes sense.

Some of the occasional repair work I do (non-car related) involves heating certain components in order for other parts to slide into position. Without this temperature delta they will not interface.

[heinzboehmer]

I put mine in the freezer and there was no way they could have just slipped in. Definitely needed to be pressed in

[Cubieman]

I put mine in the freezer and there was no way they could have just slipped in. Definitely needed to be pressed in

I was thinking of gently hammering them in but worry they won't go in straight. Did you use a press or a dedicated subframe bushing installation tool?

[FBloggs]

Press them in.
Impacts will chip/burr the aluminum.
Rent the tool from your local parts store, or if the subframe/carrier is naked, run it and the bushings to your local machine shop and have 'em pressed in.

[Cubieman]

Press them in.
Impacts will chip/burr the aluminum.
Rent the tool from your local parts store, or if the subframe/carrier is naked, run it and the bushings to your local machine shop and have 'em pressed in.

If a proper tool was available for rent I would most definitely go that direction. I'll check out what's around to see if there are any viable options from the chain stores.
The subframe is stripped so maybe a machine shop is the best way to go, I have been needing a reason to purschase a 20ton press though. I would just need to configure it correctly with the right cup/holding method etc.

[oceansize]

Liquid soap such as Dawn eases the install quite a bit.

[D-O]

I put mine in the freezer and there was no way they could have just slipped in. Definitely needed to be pressed in

Same here.

I installed them with the RTAB tool along with some pieces from a bearing and hub press kit. The soap is a good idea. Wish I had thought of it when I did this job.

[heinzboehmer]

Same, wish I would have thought to use soap.

I used one of those big, shitty c clamp things you can rent at any auto parts store. Definitely a pain to setup, but worked fine in the end.

[Cubieman]

Well I've got an RTAB tool, so maybe that along with a chain store rental/random bits I can do this w/o buying a press.

[oceansize]

Well I've got an RTAB tool, so maybe that along with a chain store rental/random bits I can do this w/o buying a press.

You totally can. I had all four corners done pretty quickly. One bushing was trying to go in lopsided and I seem to remember taking a rectangular piece of metal I had laying around an sticking it between the bushing lip and frame on the half that was sinking in too quick so that the other side could catch up. Liberal use of the dish soap and you will be fine. I didn't even freeze mine but that certainly will help further. Grease up the rtab tool bolt liberally as well.

[mrgizmo04]

Don't tap in aluminum. I used rtab tool on these. You can start with some flat piece of metal to pull against, but the final few mm you need some sort of cup to pull the end of the bushing through as it sticks out past the edge of the subframe. I also used a tonne of grease (needed grease to coat the threads on the rod to reduce friction and heat it has to go through when cranking, which is A LOT).

Just as side note, when I did cmp rtabs, those were a TIGHT fit. I even stripped the rod/nut doing the final few mm, it was so tight.

Use fine sand paper to clean out and smooth out the ears of the subframe and then coat in grease.

Also, if using a rod to get the bushings on, even if they start going on crooked, which they most likely will, as long as you have soap/grease etc there, just keep cranking, it will start pulling through and straighten out on it's own. The rod beds ever so slightly if you are just a mm off center axis, but it will work out.

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[Jersey_M3]

Post above me is correct. Of all the bushings these are the easiest to do. What worked best for me was a freezer, a bit of heat with a blow torch and a DIY press with a hardened threaded rod with some thick washers. I think it was like 18 bucks for all the parts. Don’t forget to grease them!

[Arith2]

Grease and after old ones are out, make sure when they welded the subframe, no MIG welding splashing got inside the hole. I spent hours pressing mine in with stupid amounts of effort. The welding on these subframes was so poorly done.