Inconsistent SMG Clutch Operation

[eacmen]

Not a pro, but I think this will help: fill the SC with fluid and bleed the air out (air acts like a spring and you don't like a spring pushing in the rod during the installation), then compress the rod to half way (you don't want to install the sc with a full extended rod -- too unstable), then plug the pipe hole with a bolt (use a bolt instead of the pipe) so fluid cannot spit out during stall. After the 2 nuts tighten down, slowly back out the plugging bolt to release the pressurized fluid, then isntall the fluid pipe and do the bleeding.
This will create the load on the rod so it will not compress too easy into the SC and lost contact with the TOB fork, the root cause of flying rod during bleeding.

This worked albeit with some struggles leading up to the final solution. I didn't have a tiny funnel to fill the slave port. But what I did have was a cheap dorman brake master bleeder kit. So I hooked up the M10x1 to plastic barb fitting, put the end of the hose into some CH11S and used that to fill/bleed the slave. When all the air was out I tigtened down the fitting and put a vacuum cap over the plastic barb. First go around went horrible, fluid everywhere, the plunger would not stay compressed as air was leaking past the threads. Tried forcing it on and after tasting what CH11S tastes like I went back to the drawing board. Scoured my parts bin for an O-ring that would seal that plastic M10 barb adapter to the slave. I ended up using one from a spare lower coolant hose temp sensor, fit perfectly. This time the plunger stayed compressed and did not leak air back into the cyl. I think even if you had an M10x1 bolt it would need to be really short and you would also need an O-ring.

Got everything bolted up (doing smg pump relocation at the same time). Did the bleed procedures and both passed in INPA. However I did notice some significant creaking when doing the slave bleed. I think it was the pressure plate fingers being compressed. Need to bolt the engine back up to do the other adaptation since that requires starting the car.

[flgman1966]

WOW! So, I had an air bag recall that I needed to have completed and took the M3 to the dealer for replacement. Also decided to have transmission evaluated. So as I understand it the Clutch Fork was damaged from the clutch. Seems like a hole was worn through. So when Plunger from Slave Cylinder depresses it goes through the fork and makes contract with the clutch. Thus the oddly worn end of original plunger. I replaced with rebuilt Slave cylinder and now same result, plastic end of plunger is damaged. So I received this quote for repairs.

1. Replace the clutch assembly, slave cylinder, release fork, and all hardware, bushings etc, needed = $6824.60 installed + tax + shop supplies = $7387.87 grand total.

or

2. Same as above but adding the cost of the flywheel $2330.76 + tax = $9881.78 grand total including tax/shop supplies.

Again, WOW!!

So, it looks like I can buy all parts described above for about $1300 from ECS Tuning. Nothing special. Not going racing. But all components including Rear Seal. Guibo was already done.

Am I dilutional for believing and Indy so can do the labor for less than $2000.00?

[flgman1966]

Plunger end of Slave Cylinder.

[flgman1966]

https://api.mykaarma.com/video-walkaround/details?inspection_uuid=62b0d5a5f3f15f117d81f112&fileType=image_and_video

[lemoose]

WOW! So, I had an air bag recall that I needed to have completed and took the M3 to the dealer for replacement. Also decided to have transmission evaluated. So asI understand it the Clutch Fork was damaged from the clutch. Seems like a hole was worn through. So when Plunger from Slave Cylinder depresses it goes through the fork and makes contract with the clutch. This the oddly worn end of original plunger. I replaced with rebuilt Slave cylinder and now same result, plastic end of plunger is damaged. So I received this quote for repairs.

1. Replace the clutch assembly, slave cylinder, release fork, and all hardware, bushings etc, needed = $6824.60 installed + tax + shop supplies = $7387.87 grand total.

or

2. Same as above but adding the cost of the flywheel $2330.76 + tax = $9881.78 grand total including tax/shop supplies.

Again, WOW!!

So, it looks like I can buy all parts described above for about $1300 from ECS Tuning. Nothing special. Not going racing. But all components including Rear Seal. Guibo was already done.

Am I dilutional for believing and Indy so can do the labor for less than $2000.00?

I got my clutch replaced for about $1000 so not delusional although maybe optimistic.

[oceansize]

Find a good Independent and forget the dealership for this type of work. Even if only a grand less you still come out ahead.

[eacmen]

That is crazy. I got a tilton twin disc installed on the old 6MT car for $400 in labor. Get the OE clutch (Luk?) and run adaptation. Just be sure the shop is careful aligning the plunger with the new fork.

[flgman1966]

Local BMW shop quoted 11 hours to replace clutch etc @ $179.00 /Hr. Almost $2000 for labor. A little cheaper than dealer, but has risen a lot since the $80/Hr that I recall. Really considering taking this on myself. But will have to wait until 2023.

[eacmen]

Local BMW shop quoted 11 hours to replace clutch etc @ $179.00 /Hr. Almost $2000 for labor. A little cheaper than dealer, but has risen a lot since the $80/Hr that I recall. Really considering taking this on myself. But will have to wait until 2023.

11hrs! Either they are really slow or they don’t want to do it.

Where u located?

[sapote]

So as I understand it the Clutch Fork was damaged from the clutch. Seems like a hole was worn through. So when Plunger from Slave Cylinder depresses it goes through the fork and makes contract with the clutch. Thus the oddly worn end of original plunger.

If the plunger went trough the fork then it couldn’t push on the TOB to release the clutch, then I don’t understand how you drove the car to the dealer.

[flgman1966]

Seems as though the hole was only large enough for the metal rod to pass through. (See photo above) The surrounding plastic/rubber tip was heated by the friction, melted and maintained a little resistance from passing through the hole. The tip mushroomed. But, now the travel distance is much longer, since clutch fork width was reduced from touching clutch, plus the top of the rod melted away and finally because rod partially poked through. Also seems like was all a result of a nylon pivot pin that compresses and eventually allows fork to contact the clutch. Poor engineering, but even if it wasn't pivot pin, at 100k miles it would be something. All presumptions from the video, the photo and the operation.