I know, I should swap it. That was always the plan. But for a few reasons, I'd prefer not to on this car, even though I have all the swap parts sitting here.
Timeline:
1) COVID lockdowns. Car was driven very rarely, battery died a few times. Due to where it was parked, I often just used my little jumper to start it up rather than trickle charging it.
2) I noticed that I wasn't hearing the pump priming anymore when I unlocked it. I thought "hm, that'll lead to some problems eventually" but because I'm a jackass, didn't think beyond that. Hey, I was planning to swap it out anyway... so screw it.
3) on the highway it dropped me out of gear and into neutral a few times on a trip to hockey. Great... but nobody to blame but myself. I knew I was playing with fire.
4) at the rink, I backed into a spot for the first time in forever and it wouldn't come out of reverse.
5) Car stuck in R, won't start or go into neutral (at this point, using the Schwaben tool, I did not know I could go in and tell it to engage the clutch)
6) towed the car home. This was an adventure.
a long time passes because I'm lazy. Also, while I have a laptop with INPA and all the coding software on it, it apparently hates all three of my cables, because it won't recognize that the ignition is on, and this made me discouraged. Mostly I'm just lazy and unmotivated these days.
7) new salmon relay. No change
8) replaced the entire pump and motor assembly
9) I could hear it prime (very quietly; much quieter than I remembered)
10) really no change, P0760 solenoid error in the Schwaben tool.
11) Schwaben tool lets it put me into neutral, which would've been great to know I could have done before I had it towed. Car will roll forward and back. Yay.
12) Once in neutral, it does allow me to engage the clutch and start the car. Whee!
13) still only wants to engage in reverse... it does allow me to back up. This is with the shifter in the drive position, btw.
14) pump pressure showing 60-65 bar... but the tool still tells me "hydraulic pump inactive" and "relay inactive" in every status area, including when I try to tell it to engage the pump.
15) I discover the part where I can engage each gear one at a time in the tool. The dash changes along with me, I can hear it clicking to engage.
16) Car starts and drives. To the gas station and back, up to third gear, including being off while filling and then re-starting it and driving home. Parking involved a reverse too, everything seems normal. ĀÆ\_(ć)_/ĀÆ
17) Went to bed
18) this morning I figured I'd try to ease it back in to regular duty, and now it doesn't want to come out of neutral. At one point it engaged in first gear and crept forward, but still displayed N in the dash. Would not go into reverse or display an actual gear.
19) 0760 error persists, and I'm not sure I heard the pump prime either (but it was noisy out; can't say this for sure)
20) The procedure detailed here: https://blog.ecstuning.com/schwaben-...mg-adaptation/ - fails in the first step at "mid-gate could not be selected" - but then after putting the relay back in it obviously does prime the pump and then does let me go in and out of gear with the car off/ignition in... but the gear it chooses is totally at random (2,5,etc) when I bump the knob to the center. But unlike before, it's still putting me into neutral when I bump it left, and I can roll the car or start it.
I know that this would be a lot easier to troubleshoot with INPA, but it's not connecting. I do have the Schwaben tool of course, and for now at least the battery is new and fresh so I assume by now that any random "voltage is still low and inconsistent but it'll right itself with a bit of time running" issues are already cleared out. But I'm not sure what my process here should be...
I can't imagine that the new pump is bad, and to be honest, this new behavior makes me suspect that the original one wasn't actually the issue either. Pressure seems fine and it's engaging the clutch and briefly had me running the car and shifting nicely... to me that "relay inactive" part seems likely to be a big clue; those things are known to cause all kinds of weird issues, and I'm having weird issues - some of which, like the dash showing N while the car is in gear, or it ignoring inputs from the shifter at times, seem completely unrelated to pump/hydraulics... so that kind of makes sense to me.
But... why would a brand new relay and a new pump (that shows good pressure and does engage the slave cylinder correctly) show as inactive? What could possibly be upstream of that and cause that issue?
Could the SMG DME itself be at fault here? Possibly from the voltage/battery fluctuations? I'd have to dig for it, but I have at least one if not two other SMG DMEs laying around (plus I could always just yank the one out of my convertible too, although surely at its age the adaptations are way off)
Anyone have any thoughts on what might be at issue here or what to look at next? I'll just yank the whole thing out if I have to, but I'd prefer not to, at least yet.
The fact that all the individual mechanical parts and hydraulics seem capable of working normally definitely makes me think it's in the electrical portion of it all. The inactive relay part is what really throws me.
Timeline:
1) COVID lockdowns. Car was driven very rarely, battery died a few times. Due to where it was parked, I often just used my little jumper to start it up rather than trickle charging it.
2) I noticed that I wasn't hearing the pump priming anymore when I unlocked it. I thought "hm, that'll lead to some problems eventually" but because I'm a jackass, didn't think beyond that. Hey, I was planning to swap it out anyway... so screw it.
3) on the highway it dropped me out of gear and into neutral a few times on a trip to hockey. Great... but nobody to blame but myself. I knew I was playing with fire.
4) at the rink, I backed into a spot for the first time in forever and it wouldn't come out of reverse.
5) Car stuck in R, won't start or go into neutral (at this point, using the Schwaben tool, I did not know I could go in and tell it to engage the clutch)
6) towed the car home. This was an adventure.
a long time passes because I'm lazy. Also, while I have a laptop with INPA and all the coding software on it, it apparently hates all three of my cables, because it won't recognize that the ignition is on, and this made me discouraged. Mostly I'm just lazy and unmotivated these days.
7) new salmon relay. No change
8) replaced the entire pump and motor assembly
9) I could hear it prime (very quietly; much quieter than I remembered)
10) really no change, P0760 solenoid error in the Schwaben tool.
11) Schwaben tool lets it put me into neutral, which would've been great to know I could have done before I had it towed. Car will roll forward and back. Yay.
12) Once in neutral, it does allow me to engage the clutch and start the car. Whee!
13) still only wants to engage in reverse... it does allow me to back up. This is with the shifter in the drive position, btw.
14) pump pressure showing 60-65 bar... but the tool still tells me "hydraulic pump inactive" and "relay inactive" in every status area, including when I try to tell it to engage the pump.
15) I discover the part where I can engage each gear one at a time in the tool. The dash changes along with me, I can hear it clicking to engage.
16) Car starts and drives. To the gas station and back, up to third gear, including being off while filling and then re-starting it and driving home. Parking involved a reverse too, everything seems normal. ĀÆ\_(ć)_/ĀÆ
17) Went to bed
18) this morning I figured I'd try to ease it back in to regular duty, and now it doesn't want to come out of neutral. At one point it engaged in first gear and crept forward, but still displayed N in the dash. Would not go into reverse or display an actual gear.
19) 0760 error persists, and I'm not sure I heard the pump prime either (but it was noisy out; can't say this for sure)
20) The procedure detailed here: https://blog.ecstuning.com/schwaben-...mg-adaptation/ - fails in the first step at "mid-gate could not be selected" - but then after putting the relay back in it obviously does prime the pump and then does let me go in and out of gear with the car off/ignition in... but the gear it chooses is totally at random (2,5,etc) when I bump the knob to the center. But unlike before, it's still putting me into neutral when I bump it left, and I can roll the car or start it.
I know that this would be a lot easier to troubleshoot with INPA, but it's not connecting. I do have the Schwaben tool of course, and for now at least the battery is new and fresh so I assume by now that any random "voltage is still low and inconsistent but it'll right itself with a bit of time running" issues are already cleared out. But I'm not sure what my process here should be...
I can't imagine that the new pump is bad, and to be honest, this new behavior makes me suspect that the original one wasn't actually the issue either. Pressure seems fine and it's engaging the clutch and briefly had me running the car and shifting nicely... to me that "relay inactive" part seems likely to be a big clue; those things are known to cause all kinds of weird issues, and I'm having weird issues - some of which, like the dash showing N while the car is in gear, or it ignoring inputs from the shifter at times, seem completely unrelated to pump/hydraulics... so that kind of makes sense to me.
But... why would a brand new relay and a new pump (that shows good pressure and does engage the slave cylinder correctly) show as inactive? What could possibly be upstream of that and cause that issue?
Could the SMG DME itself be at fault here? Possibly from the voltage/battery fluctuations? I'd have to dig for it, but I have at least one if not two other SMG DMEs laying around (plus I could always just yank the one out of my convertible too, although surely at its age the adaptations are way off)
Anyone have any thoughts on what might be at issue here or what to look at next? I'll just yank the whole thing out if I have to, but I'd prefer not to, at least yet.
The fact that all the individual mechanical parts and hydraulics seem capable of working normally definitely makes me think it's in the electrical portion of it all. The inactive relay part is what really throws me.
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