Preferred exhaust manifold studs?

[JeremyJames]

Every single stud came out of the head even with PB blaster during header removal. My car is a Florida car with zero rust.

Is the Genuine BMW stud part # 07129900298 the best stud to reinstall or is there a better alternative? I know that the stock length stud is okay for my headers but the OEM stud will require the 2nut technique to reinstall. Not sure if there is a torx alternative that exists that may be better?

Thank you for your input!

[Slideways]

It is easier to install the headers with shorter studs, especially aftermarket headers that take up more space than stock euros.

[Sharocks]

I used N54 studs. They work.

[JeremyJames]

I used N54 studs. They work.

Absolutely perfect! That’s what I was wondering. They at least have the torx but looks like they’re 9mm longer.

I just purchased 18 of them NDA 11127593376.

Appreciate your feedback on this brother.

[Cubieman]

The (N54) torx studs are easier to install into the head but as noted can make aftermarket header install harder more difficult.

Be very careful to not crossthread the studs, I would use compressed air to blow out the holes and start them all by hand.

A local mechanic recommend that I use a small amount of anti-seize on the studs to prevent galling but others on here have said to NOT put anti-seize on the stud but the on the nut.

[JeremyJames]

The (N54) torx studs are easier to install into the head but as noted can make aftermarket header install harder more difficult.

Be very careful to not crossthread the studs, I would use compressed air to blow out the holes and start them all by hand.

A local mechanic recommend that I use a small amount of anti-seize on the studs to prevent galling but others on here have said to NOT put anti-seize on the stud but the on the nut.

Great advice on the compressed air. I’ve learned my lesson with this car, I have 2 back up vehicles for my daily so I can take my time with what SHOULD be a rather easy job. It never fails, I always need more parts than anticipated. I ended up ordering every single bolt, nut, and gasket OEM from head to section 2.

When you did your header install did you end up deleting your secondary air valve or did you just replace the gasket and call it a day?

Next is my Karbonius install. I finally got the 1x1 beauty from Spain just awaiting some CSL parts. Excited for that project.

[Cubieman]

Great advice on the compressed air. I’ve learned my lesson with this car, I have 2 back up vehicles for my daily so I can take my time with what SHOULD be a rather easy job. It never fails, I always need more parts than anticipated. I ended up ordering every single bolt, nut, and gasket OEM from head to section 2.

When you did your header install did you end up deleting your secondary air valve or did you just replace the gasket and call it a day?

Next is my Karbonius install. I finally got the 1x1 beauty from Spain just awaiting some CSL parts. Excited for that project.

I put a block off plate/new gasket on for the SAP and then coded it out. Most definitely makes it look like something is missing in the engine bay but you get the race car weight savings!

[JeremyJames]

I put a block off plate/new gasket on for the SAP and then coded it out. Most definitely makes it look like something is missing in the engine bay but you get the race car weight savings!

Rgr that.

I know you have OCD when it comes to your M like I do Cubie. Tell me how you torqued all these nuts to spec with the engine in the car man Haha

[Cubieman]

Rgr that.

I know you have OCD when it comes to your M like I do Cubie. Tell me how you torqued all these nuts to spec with the engine in the car man Haha

Ha, that didn't happen for sure, one thing I wished I had was a ratcheting/articulating wrench for those nuts.

I've done headers twice now and found that with the Euro and SS's that the tool I used the most was a simple wrench, had it had a ratchet action that would have been helpful. The Euro headers did allow for more usage of a traditional socket wrench.

One thing I found is the nuts need to be tightened up again maybe after a couple hundred miles. None were loose by any means but there were a few that needed to be snugged back up. Probably not 100% necessary but it was the OCD thing.

If you want to snug them up maybe either re-use your brace plate bolts and install new bolts after snugging or don't angle torque your new brace plate bolts 1st time around as they aren't cheap.
You could always send them back via FCP as well, but I might feel bad sending them back so soon

[Arith2]

How do the N54 studs versus stock studs fit with SS headers?

[HennyM3]

How do the N54 studs versus stock studs fit with SS headers?

Recently installed ssv1 headers on a friend's car. When removing his previous headers, I saw that some studs were n54 studs and some were kept stock. Since the mounting flanges are decently thin, it didn't matter much to have the n54 studs since the stock-sized studs had enough threads to catch the nuts.

There is one stud location where you'd have to be aware of is the top-most stud on cylinder 6. The length that the n54 stud protrudes has very little clearance between the piping to put on a nut if the rest are already mounted. So that would be one place where i would keep the stock stud

[JeremyJames]

I am happy I put in the extra efforts to install the N54 studs. I probably would’ve lost my entire mind if I had to double nut those studs back into the head with the engine in the car. I was able to torque all the nuts other than 2. That CYL 6 top nut was an absolute pain in the ass in every aspect due to the coolant pipe but slow and steady got her done. A little trick I did to keep the coolant clean was I siphoned the coolant reservoir before removal. I had 0 coolant loss or mess. I corked the coolant pipe and of course removed the air pump assembly. I ended up disconnecting the headers from the exhaust and then dropped the entire exhaust system as a whole it’s a lot easier to remove the exhaust than fight potentially corroded bolts and nuts and also I didn’t have to replace any gaskets other than the headers to exhaust and on the cylinder head, obviously.

The trick for this job is definitely having every single possible combination of short, long, medium extensions, swivels, flex heads, and wobble sockets. Having the right tools will make or break this job for sure. I did this job solo but a helping hand would save the up and down.

I appreciate your guys input / advice. For the people viewing this thread in the same predicament, the part # for the N54 torx stud is #11127593376 x18.

Cheers!

[SWRT_M3]

I am happy I put in the extra efforts to install the N54 studs. I probably would’ve lost my entire mind if I had to double nut those studs back into the head with the engine in the car. I was able to torque all the nuts other than 2. That CYL 6 top nut was an absolute pain in the ass in every aspect due to the coolant pipe but slow and steady got her done. A little trick I did to keep the coolant clean was I siphoned the coolant reservoir before removal. I had 0 coolant loss or mess. I corked the coolant pipe and of course removed the air pump assembly. I ended up disconnecting the headers from the exhaust and then dropped the entire exhaust system as a whole it’s a lot easier to remove the exhaust than fight potentially corroded bolts and nuts and also I didn’t have to replace any gaskets other than the headers to exhaust and on the cylinder head, obviously.

The trick for this job is definitely having every single possible combination of short, long, medium extensions, swivels, flex heads, and wobble sockets. Having the right tools will make or break this job for sure. I did this job solo but a helping hand would save the up and down.

I appreciate your guys input / advice. For the people viewing this thread in the same predicament, the part # for the N54 torx stud is #11621318568 x18.

Cheers!

I think you meant to say 11127593376. I started ordering the complementary parts while I wait for the SSV1 to arrive from the recent GB, your question and member's feedback is much appreciated.

a bit more info on the studs for those wondering.

07129900298 (S54 Studs) M7x30
11127593376 (N54 Studs) M7x39 with torx head (can also be found on the S55)

[SQ13]

I can’t believe I’m gonna spend $72 on the studs. Oof

[JeremyJames]

I think you meant to say 11127593376. I started ordering the complementary parts while I wait for the SSV1 to arrive from the recent GB, your question and member's feedback is much appreciated.

a bit more info on the studs for those wondering.

07129900298 (S54 Studs) M7x30
11127593376 (N54 Studs) M7x39 with torx head (can also be found on the S55)

Great catch dude! I scanned my FCP receipt too quickly as I ordered both sets of studs and copied the wrong #. I placed an order for both the standard S54 studs and also the N54 studs so I could make a better decision after having both in my hand. I was afraid I wasn’t going to use the N54 studs. Thank you for this call out. I edited my previous comment with the correct part number to prevent any confusion. BMW-11127593376 was in fact the studs that I ordered and installed.