Preferred exhaust manifold studs?

[JeremyJames]

I can’t believe I’m gonna spend $72 on the studs. Oof

Where are you ordering from? Don’t forget to order the air valve control gasket. I’d also order the exhaust seal rings and the corresponding torx bolts and copper nuts. I ended up dropping my entire system as one piece once disconnecting from my headers so I only had to replace one set of seals+bolts/nuts. My exhaust seals upon removal were absolute trash.

[SQ13]

Where are you ordering from? Don’t forget to order the air valve control gasket. I’d also order the exhaust seal rings and the corresponding torx bolts and copper nuts. I ended up dropping my entire system as one piece once disconnecting from my headers so I only had to replace one set of seals+bolts/nuts. My exhaust seals upon removal were absolute trash.

FCP. Deleted the SAP so I’m good there. This’ll be my fourth header install so it shouldn’t be difficult. I replace the seals and hardware every time.

[mtpktz]

Where are you ordering from? Don’t forget to order the air valve control gasket. I’d also order the exhaust seal rings and the corresponding torx bolts and copper nuts. I ended up dropping my entire system as one piece once disconnecting from my headers so I only had to replace one set of seals+bolts/nuts. My exhaust seals upon removal were absolute trash.

Just as a heads up, the EGR gasket you have on order is 11727514860, however, RealOEM shows the part number as 11727505259 for the M3 - not sure if there's truly a difference.

[PSUEng]

I put a block off plate/new gasket on for the SAP and then coded it out. Most definitely makes it look like something is missing in the engine bay but you get the race car weight savings!

In prep for my SS system install I’m looking at how to delete the SAP; would you be able to direct me to some good info on how to code this out? It seems one needs to disable the SAP DTCs but also the “cold start”? I’ve no experience coding on this car.

[Cubieman]

In prep for my SS system install I’m looking at how to delete the SAP; would you be able to direct me to some good info on how to code this out? It seems one needs to disable the SAP DTCs but also the “cold start”? I’ve no experience coding on this car.

You can use NCS, but I would recommend a much easier method using the MSS54 Binary Modification Tool:

https://www.ecuworx.co.uk/downloads/

You also need the program "BMW Flash"

http://bimmersoftware.com/bmwflash

You will also need a KDCAN cable/laptop, instructions for the program are on the site as well.

https://www.ecuworx.co.uk/how-to/using-the-mss5x-binary-modification-tool/

[Slideways]

Just saw this trick for installing the stock exhaust manifold studs using one of the valve cover cap nuts -

[Arith2]

I recently put my SS headers on and it was definitely better having stock studs. I previously had N54 studs and I had to move them around just to get sockets on the nuts. That upper 6th stud wasn't too bad. I use my electric ratchet on all but 5 bottom nuts so it took about 10 minutes versus the hours last time. I've also learned to move the reservoir and unbolt the metal coolant hose. Start to finish from lifting to driving out was about 5 hours. Everyone should invest in an electric ratchet. It's seriously worth it.

[PSUEng]

I recently put my SS headers on and it was definitely better having stock studs. I previously had N54 studs and I had to move them around just to get sockets on the nuts. That upper 6th stud wasn't too bad. I use my electric ratchet on all but 5 bottom nuts so it took about 10 minutes versus the hours last time. I've also learned to move the reservoir and unbolt the metal coolant hose. Start to finish from lifting to driving out was about 5 hours. Everyone should invest in an electric ratchet. It's seriously worth it.

That's the next Milwaukee M12 tool on my list. So, you removed the nuts with that? When you say you had to move the N54 studs around, what do you mean--change position and mix/match with the original studs? I need to order some studs, and on the fence with the N54 or stock studs. As you may know from my other thread, I'm doing the SS headers as well.

[Arith2]

That's the next Milwaukee M12 tool on my list. So, you removed the nuts with that? When you say you had to move the N54 studs around, what do you mean--change position and mix/match with the original studs? I need to order some studs, and on the fence with the N54 or stock studs. As you may know from my other thread, I'm doing the SS headers as well.

For SS headers, just do all S54 studs. Sometimes they will stick out too far and you can't tighten one down under a pipe. It's super annoying. I upgraded from Megan headers and while they noce headers, getting them on was not that easy. The SS headers took 10 minues to get in and torque.