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Help re: intermittent overheating

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    #16
    I, personally, would replace everything at that mileage, esp an lsb of a pcar owner
    DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
    /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
    More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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      #17
      And there you have it folks. The use of logic and shame in equal measure by our friend T-Bone has landed me at full overhaul.

      Good to know that a radiator would have likely solved my problem(s). Half measures be damned, as they say.

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        #18
        Originally posted by LSB4Me View Post
        Mileage = 138k
        Yeah if things are original, I would replace everything too at that mileage
        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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          #19
          Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

          Yeah if things are original, I would replace everything too at that mileage
          Me too. I just assume any E46 M3 that has 100-200k miles on it needs almost everything replaced that's a wear item unless noted otherwise.
          Instagram: @logicalconclusion

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            #20
            Originally posted by LSB4Me View Post
            After a decent testing period, I can say that the coolant temp starts to climb: (1) on hot days; (2) with the AC on; and (3) when the motor is being run harder—meaning, shifts at 5k+ or while under load (uphill). Another clue is that the coolant temp returns to the midpoint when turning the AC off. And yes, I can hear the aux fan doing its thing
            A few thoughts.
            1) If Elec fan was running which means the lower hose was hot. But this is possible only for a normal car, so double check by reach in and feel the lower hose to make sure it is indeed hot.
            2) If the lower hose is hot, this means the Tstat opened properly and the WP works fine. Then the issue is the radiator doesn't exchange enough heat.


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              #21
              I had this problem and hunted it down for ages
              Go into the secret menu and press 19/7 to get the temps up for the coolant engine temp sensor and let me know what they are with and without AC on (+ ambiemt temps)

              I changed
              2 water pumps
              1 radiator
              Engine coolant temp sensor
              radiator temp sensor
              Clutch fan

              Its a little better but still gets up to 93C with the AC on. and 88C without. When I pull the lower radiator hose sensor, it gets to 86-87C. This leads me to think its the aux fan or the aux fan module playing up

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