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PSA: Think twice before lowering your car
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Actually now Iโm second guessing myself. When I go on the website, it shows the same picture for m and non m for race plates ๐ค2 Photos
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Below is a picture of the camber plates that I installed on my car. Comparing it to what they have on the website, my assumption is that they are for m ?
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Originally posted by Slideways View PostWhich ground control camber plates did you install? For the E46, there are M and non-M camber plates and non-M plates on an M3 allow much more negative camber, which is why you might have the negative camber problem.
I said the same thing in that other thread -- he said they are "def for the M3" because he bought them (used) from a member of this forum. Whether or not that person had the right setup in the first place....Last edited by elbert; 07-24-2024, 05:21 PM.
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Originally posted by oceansize View Post
I was looking at another post from him and he has the GC race plates, I'm guessing that is contributing to his problem.
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Originally posted by Slideways View PostWhich ground control camber plates did you install? For the E46, there are M and non-M camber plates and non-M plates on an M3 allow much more negative camber, which is why you might have the negative camber problem.
Last edited by oceansize; 07-24-2024, 03:25 PM.
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Originally posted by Leafsrule531 View Post
I wish I read this thread before hand. I have kw v2 coilovers with swift 560 lb linear springs in the front. When I was in the process of installing the coilovers the mechanic had asked me how much drop I want. I told him not much but definitely a little bit more than oem so itโll look more sporty. Well that โsportyโ look resulted in me being about 13.5 inches from the center of the wheel.
now because the kw coilovers are so much shorter than normal dampers, the best camber I am able to get even with ground control camber plates is -3 which is really not good for street use. The car drives amazing and had a great smooth yet firm ride but I am being told that only way to get more positive camber is by raising the car which means I need get a $180 alignment for the 3rd time if I do raise it ๐ญ๐ญ๐ญ.
in hindsight, I wish I never played around with the height. I really just wanted a slightly dropped car with better handling after the coilovers that drove straight.
after reading the whole thread I do agree with OP. Dropping definitely looks cooler but made it a nightmare to align even with camber plates.
There are a handful of options out there for strut mounts/camber plates, but not a whole lot of information on the details and differences. I’m mostly concerned with streetable, quiet options with some sort of isolation. I wanted to see the differences up close and figured I would share the info. Hopefully this makes sense.
You can run non-M plates and get a significant increase in negative camber. Perfect for track, probably too much for street driving.โ
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Originally posted by Leafsrule531 View Post
I wish I read this thread before hand. I have kw v2 coilovers with swift 560 lb linear springs in the front. When I was in the process of installing the coilovers the mechanic had asked me how much drop I want. I told him not much but definitely a little bit more than oem so itโll look more sporty. Well that โsportyโ look resulted in me being about 13.5 inches from the center of the wheel.
now because the kw coilovers are so much shorter than normal dampers, the best camber I am able to get even with ground control camber plates is -3 which is really not good for street use. The car drives amazing and had a great smooth yet firm ride but I am being told that only way to get more positive camber is by raising the car which means I need get a $180 alignment for the 3rd time if I do raise it ๐ญ๐ญ๐ญ.
in hindsight, I wish I never played around with the height. I really just wanted a slightly dropped car with better handling after the coilovers that drove straight.
after reading the whole thread I do agree with OP. Dropping definitely looks cooler but made it a nightmare to align even with camber plates.
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Originally posted by cobra View Post
Stock Height + Stock Suspension = Decent all-around balance of performance/comfort/practicality, but looks dorky
Stock Height + Aftermarket Suspension = Best all-around balance of performance/comfort/practicality, but looks dorky
Lowered + Stock Suspension = Trash performance/comfort/practicality, but looks sick
Lowered + Aftermarket Suspension = Can be good if done right (stiff springs, maybe offset suspension pivots) but often done wrong, biased towards performance while compromising comfort/practicality, and looks sick
now because the kw coilovers are so much shorter than normal dampers, the best camber I am able to get even with ground control camber plates is -3 which is really not good for street use. The car drives amazing and had a great smooth yet firm ride but I am being told that only way to get more positive camber is by raising the car which means I need get a $180 alignment for the 3rd time if I do raise it ๐ญ๐ญ๐ญ.
in hindsight, I wish I never played around with the height. I really just wanted a slightly dropped car with better handling after the coilovers that drove straight.
after reading the whole thread I do agree with OP. Dropping definitely looks cooler but made it a nightmare to align even with camber plates.
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Originally posted by freshprince2421 View PostCliff Notes besides don't lower your car? ๐ฟ
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Originally posted by freshprince2421 View PostCliff Notes besides don't lower your car? ๐ฟOriginally posted by K_M3 View Post
Wondering this too
Stock Height + Aftermarket Suspension = Best all-around balance of performance/comfort/practicality, but looks dorky
Lowered + Stock Suspension = Trash performance/comfort/practicality, but looks sick
Lowered + Aftermarket Suspension = Can be good if done right (stiff springs, maybe offset suspension pivots) but often done wrong, biased towards performance while compromising comfort/practicality, and looks sick
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Body roll has nowt to do with weight transfer unless bottles of water are rolling back and forth.
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