Can you rebuild stock brake caliper

[PSUEng]

Is there an option for upgraded seals somewhere? After a rebuild and then a couple of track days the calipers start hangup again

Out of curiosity, which brand of seal(s) were you using for rebuilds? I've got a set of ZCP calipers on the bench that I'm rebuilding, using ATE kit for fronts and likely BMW for rears (apparently there is no ATE seal kit for those and non-BMW choices are limited). I've seen some Centric scattered around here and there but apparently much of their seal production was ceased a year ago or so. I also had found some brands on RockAuto and a brand out of Europe called Bigg Red. But, I don't have experience with any of them.

[Estoril]

Is there an option for upgraded seals somewhere? After a rebuild and then a couple of track days the calipers start hangup again

You didn't reinstall the piston dry, did you?

[Wernd]

I used oem Bmw from ecs for both front and rear.

Estoril I used ate plastilube as directed for installation. Like I stated above, they're great after rebuild. It's only after a couple of events that they drag at a stoplight.

[Estoril]

I used oem Bmw from ecs for both front and rear.

Estoril I used ate plastilube as directed for installation. Like I stated above, they're great after rebuild. It's only after a couple of events that they drag at a stoplight.

I'd check the slider pins - clean, shiny and abrasion-free. Replace pins if you see rub marks. I don't use lube on pins as it hold debris/grit. If you use brass bushings - clean their insides well with WD-40.

[PSUEng]

I used oem Bmw from ecs for both front and rear.

Estoril I used ate plastilube as directed for installation. Like I stated above, they're great after rebuild. It's only after a couple of events that they drag at a stoplight.

AFAIK, Plastilube is not for pistons and internal hydraulic parts. ATE makes an assembly lube specifically for internal hydraulic parts though some argue brake fluid is acceptable if you install them soon thereafter. Boxer2Valve.com sells it in small jars. I use a Toyota lithium soap based grease on my slider pins after I installed them dry and they hung up; so far so good. It won't swell the bushings and as stated, the pins should be cleaned or replaced.

[Wernd]

I'd check the slider pins - clean, shiny and abrasion-free. Replace pins if you see rub marks. I don't use lube on pins as it hold debris/grit. If you use brass bushings - clean their insides well with WD-40.

Yeah I've got the ecs brass bushings. You're just using wd40 for lube on those?

[Estoril]

Yeah I've got the ecs brass bushings. You're just using wd40 for lube on those?

I just clean them well, but don't intentionally leave much on the brass.

[Wernd]

So I cleaned the brass up and all is well, thanks Estoril for the info. I can't tell you how long I've been doing this wrong

[E46m3zcp]

I did it this year. I used a scotch brite pad to remove the dirt and some surface rust of the pistons but I would not recommend it. It left some scuffs and I'm afraid it will rust quickly as the coating might be gone. Use metal polish and a microfiber cloth.

[eacmen]

I'd check the slider pins - clean, shiny and abrasion-free. Replace pins if you see rub marks. I don't use lube on pins as it hold debris/grit. If you use brass bushings - clean their insides well with WD-40.

I would not be advising folks to not use grease on brass slide pins is dangerous. They can seize.


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[Estoril]

I would not be advising folks to not use grease on brass slide pins is dangerous. They can seize.


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I've been using this approach for more than 10 years on my street and my track E46 M3s with zero issues. I inspect the brass at least 4-5 times each year on the track set with zero signs of abrasion (I use a borescope). Those get ~24 track days annually and have no experience with pad modulation or release issues - both of which I am very sensitive to.

If folks would like to add various lubricants to their brass bushings, that is up to them. But my experience is that those lubricants will hold all of the road grit, brake dust and all other debris that are naturally stirred and circulated in that area.

[eacmen]

I've been using this approach for more than 10 years on my street and my track E46 M3s with zero issues. I inspect the brass at least 4-5 times each year on the track set with zero signs of abrasion (I use a borescope). Those get ~24 track days annually and have no experience with pad modulation or release issues - both of which I am very sensitive to.

If folks would like to add various lubricants to their brass bushings, that is up to them. But my experience is that those lubricants will hold all of the road grit, brake dust and all other debris that are naturally stirred and circulated in that area.

Grease is commonly used on all parts of exposed brake components and is still perfectly functional after collecting debris for 20k miles. As with any brass bushings you want to inspect, clean and re-grease routinely.

Only reason for not greasing is because you don’t want to clean the grease off? I don’t understand the motivation for not applying grease here.


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[dog2bert]

My rebuilt caliper with the stainless piston ceased, but it did clean up nicely with metal polish.
I bought a re-manufactured caliper from ECSTuning, and might rebuild it one day with the stainless piston.