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Dr Vanos Cryo hub or Beisan?

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  • sharadn
    replied
    Any idea on labor time to refresh the Vanos?

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  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Fair enough, can't dispute that. Not sure why all I've seen for like 10 years are late model cars. Thought maybe they changed the loctite at some point or something.

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    Some besian solenoids are DOA. I have 181k miles on all original parts except I did do a redrilled (oe) disk just cause, but original was ok, tabs were ok (at 140k).

    If no vanos codes, I wouldn't replace the solenoid.

    My 2002 with 130k had the most pristine vanos you've even seen, not even one marring of the hub disk. Incredible.

    Most e46s dont have issues. Our perspective on the forums is well skewed.

    The shearing intake bolts seem to be an 05/06 issue as far as I have seen. Never seen an earlier car have issues, but maybe there has been. I've been paying attention for years now.
    I don’t think the cam bolt issue is limited to 05/06 MY. I had a 2001 model. When I did VANOS two of the intake bolts were completely loose. This youtube dude has 2002 and was much worse than mine:

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  • Tbonem3
    replied
    If tabs are hammering the disc (and leaving evidence/heavy marring), I would expect fatigue at some point, but if there's ZERO evidence that the tabs are making contact with the edge of the disc's holes, then no, I wouldn't expect fatigue.

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  • digger
    replied
    The tabs fail by fatigue, even if there are no cracks yet it’s fatigue life is being consumed basically every time engine is used. An Uncracked part that’s done 100k is not the same as a new part when it comes to fatigue.
    Eventually the internal material damage will accumulate to a point and cause a fracture. Nobody can definitively say when but due to the consequence of failure it makes sense to err on the very cautious side

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Some besian solenoids are DOA. I have 181k miles on all original parts except I did do a redrilled (oe) disk just cause, but original was ok, tabs were ok (at 140k).

    If no vanos codes, I wouldn't replace the solenoid.

    My 2002 with 130k had the most pristine vanos you've even seen, not even one marring of the hub disk. Incredible.

    Most e46s dont have issues. Our perspective on the forums is well skewed.

    The shearing intake bolts seem to be an 05/06 issue as far as I have seen. Never seen an earlier car have issues, but maybe there has been. I've been paying attention for years now.
    Last edited by Tbonem3; 07-18-2022, 01:30 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jet_dogg
    replied

    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    Based one what? I've never seen an example of anyone having a failure with them (which is certainly not the case with the stock unit).
    Based on testimonials here, on your very forum. Perhaps you were asleep during those posts but several people complained of inexplicable vanos issues not being resolved after having everything overhauled with Beisan parts and predominantly repaired solenoids.

    You're comparing apples to oranges. These cars are twenty years old and your argument is based on decades old high mileage cars with 100-150k+ miles on the factory installed solenoid versus re-soldered units with tens of thousands. They will fail, give it time.

    Originally posted by maupineda View Post

    Is actually a rather good advise. just do VANOS testing and visually inspect the tabs. if it was me, and I were paranoiac ,I would only change the hub and bolts. I have the feeling that even seals is better to stay factory as long as they are good, and VANOS testing would prove that out. I speak from experience, I did the whole thing following internet advise and went very bad.

    so, if no noise, VANOS test ok, and pressure test ok, turn back and leave it alone.
    Thank you for providing an alternative viewpoint. Change the parts if you're paranoid is the take-away here.

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    Originally posted by sharadn View Post
    My 2002 M3 vert is in the shop for a valve adjustment with 112k miles. Last one was done at 91k so I know it is a few miles early and the hub and sprocket bolts were fine. I am thinking that while he is in there for the valve adjustment I will have him at least check the Vanos hub. I have some questions:
    1. If the hub and sprocket bolts are fine, should I just leave well enough alone? I don't track or drive too hard.
    2. If I decide to upgrade the hub, should I go with the Beisan hub? It is half the cost of the Dr Vanos cryo hub. I have heard nothing but good things about the Beisan product and support but my mechanic is recommending Dr Vanos.
    3. Do I need to replace both the hub and pump disc? If the hub is not cracked should I send the pump disc to Beisan to have it redrilled? There seem to be conflicting opinions kicking around on the web
    Replace the hub and bolts with Beisan hub, OEM bolts, and redrilled pump disc. The way fatigue failures occur, you will never see it a crack until it is too late.


    Originally posted by sharadn View Post
    how about the solenoid pack? 112k currently on car, no codes, replace or not?
    The solenoid pack won't cause catastrophic engine failure and is easier to replace, so it's optional. Due to the labor it's probably better peace of mind to replace everything while you're in there.

    Originally posted by jet_dogg View Post
    Beisan re-soldered solenoids are garbage.

    ...
    Wtf you talking about.

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    Its not a matter of if your tab is broken its a matter of when.

    Same with the chain guide.

    Same with the cam bolts.

    Back in the day when Beisan was drilling OE discs that were returned I’d say go Beisan. Since they started making their own disc I would be cautious. Some have reported issues. Should be easy work for any half-decent machine shop to measure and drill smaller holes in your existing disc.

    I opt’d for the cryo treated hub as I didn’t want to do it again.

    At this point at the age these engines are right now, this is basically becoming required preventative maintenance.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by maupineda View Post

    Is actually a rather good advise. just do VANOS testing and visually inspect the tabs. if it was me, and I were paranoiac ,I would only change the hub and bolts. I have the feeling that even seals is better to stay factory as long as they are good, and VANOS testing would prove that out. I speak from experience, I did the whole thing following internet advise and went very bad.

    so, if no noise, VANOS test ok, and pressure test ok, turn back and leave it alone.
    Checking the tabs tells you nothing other than that the tabs have not yet failed. I've only ever seen one example posted of a partially failed tab, so overall failure must be happening VERY quickly-- which makes the odds of you catching the failure mid way through (by "checking" them) very unlikely.

    Once the tab fails, if you're lucky you just have to replace the pump disk (with no core) and exhaust hub ($)... and if you're unlucky you need a new engine ($$$).

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by jet_dogg View Post
    Beisan re-soldered solenoids are garbage.
    Based one what? I've never seen an example of anyone having a failure with them (which is certainly not the case with the stock unit).

    Leave a comment:


  • maupineda
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    This is all terrible advice and should be ignored— absolutely, 100% you should replace the pump disk BEFORE tab failure.

    Solenoid failure can’t nuke your engine when it fails (like a vanos tab can), so less critical, but I’d do it while in there so you never have to worry about it. The stock solenoid will fail at some point, and throw the car into limp mode. If you're 500 miles from home at the time, that's a PITA. The Beisan unit likely never will.
    Is actually a rather good advise. just do VANOS testing and visually inspect the tabs. if it was me, and I were paranoiac ,I would only change the hub and bolts. I have the feeling that even seals is better to stay factory as long as they are good, and VANOS testing would prove that out. I speak from experience, I did the whole thing following internet advise and went very bad.

    so, if no noise, VANOS test ok, and pressure test ok, turn back and leave it alone.

    Leave a comment:


  • jet_dogg
    replied
    RACP is a design flaw no doubt.

    Once my car is in the shop I'll have the tabs checked on mine for more data and decide which route to take.

    I replaced my solenoid with new not many miles ago.

    Leave a comment:


  • oceansize
    replied
    I don't think anyone can have that data at scale, anecdotal at best. Maybe some of the busier e46 m3 shops can contribute their thoughts? However, we do know tabs break which was enough for me to pre-emptively correct. Same with RACP issues albeit there are many more documented cases of cracks and partial to full failure so much better than anecdotal.

    George Hill

    kaiv

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  • jet_dogg
    replied
    Beisan re-soldered solenoids are garbage.

    Out of curiosity, I'd really like to get the number of how many engines have been destroyed by the broken tab. Does anybody have a concrete or vague idea regarding this?

    Leave a comment:

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