Turner street camber plates & 14mm shafts

[r4dr]

It looks like the Turner plates have a bushing that is sleeved for a 16mm shaft (stock-sized shaft, maybe?). My MCS are 14mm, which seems to be pretty common in the aftermarket. There's 2mm of play there, which doesn't seem great to me.

Has anyone run into this before? Do I need to sleeve the shaft to match the 16mm ID of the bushing? I called Turner (aka ECS) and they had no idea.

[Tbonem3]

I run turner plates on both M14 bilsteins and M14 MCS, no problemas

Though I should say mine are street plates, not sure if their hybrid or race plates are larger. The hardcore vorshalgs I had for a minute were also M14 out of the box.

[r4dr]

I run turner plates on both M14 bilsteins and M14 MCS, no problemas

Though I should say mine are street plates, not sure if their hybrid or race plates are larger. The hardcore vorshalgs I had for a minute were also M14 out of the box.

Does it matter that the camber plate bushing has 2mm of play? How does it stay centered on the shaft?

My understanding is that the bushing is intended for a shaft with a 16mm unthreaded portion that tapers down to the M14 threads, whereas the MCS (as you know) are just 14mm with M14 threads.

[K-Dawg]

I ran into the same thing with my 14mm TCK coilovers and Turner Hybrid plates.

Yes, they defintely need some sort of sleeve or bushing to take up the slop. So far, I haven't found anything off the shelf that will work. I was going to have something custom made, but got sidetracked. IMO, a bushing to get the shaft as high as possible would be best.

Do MCS have a flat or tapered shoulder?

M14 bilsteins

Pretty sure Bilsteins are 16mm shafts like stock struts.

[Tbonem3]

My understanding is that the bushing is intended for a shaft with a 16mm unthreaded portion that tapers down to the M14 threads, whereas the MCS (as you know) are just 14mm with M14 threads.

Yes, I said M14 cause that's what the nut is, but you're right, b6 tapers out.

MCS is square shoulder, B6 is not.

When I switched from vorshlag plates to TMS, I did it with the struts in the car still, so I didn't pay attention to any slop in the neck I guess. I don't remember any play. It's tightened down, doesn't make any noise while driving (even hard cornering or bumps).

I'll have to take it apart then. My dad is a machinist, maybe I can get him to make us some sleeves. I see Turner has sleeves for their race plates, but knowing their business practices, they probably won't sell them to us.

[Tbonem3]

What about something like this?
prob need taller, I think the TMS poly bushing its more like double the height of these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352650308924

or

https://www.ebay.com/itm/331990223767

here's 20mm tall
https://www.ebay.com/itm/35265030895...3ABFBM9tKl-81g

here it is on amazon for quick delivery

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Bearing-Bearings-Wrapped-Bushings/dp/B07JLBM4T6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1UJRU931229PY&keywords=sleeve+bushing+14mm+16mm&qid=1659731538&sprefix=sleeve+bushing+14mm+16mm%2Caps%2C239&sr=8-2

[r4dr]

I think the ideal solution would be a washer bottom (can make it thick, to double as the spacer) integrated with a sleeve up through the bushing. That way, the bushing is located radially and the washer base anchors the sleeve.

I'll see what I can figure out at work this week.

[Tbonem3]

That adds stack height tho. If the slack is taken up by the sleeve, why would you be concerned about it's position?

The mcs shaft is square

[r4dr]

I get nervous about parts bouncing around in the suspension. Maybe it's overkill, maybe not...

[DoubleSidedTape]

My ground control race plates came with sleeves to go from the 14mm Koni shaft to 16mm on their bearings. Maybe contact them and see if you can buy a set of the sleeves.

[Tbonem3]

I get nervous about parts bouncing around in the suspension. Maybe it's overkill, maybe not...

Well, it's not moving around because it's fastened with hardware up top that's perpendicular to the top of the bushing sleeve and the bottom is the same, the square shoulder of the MCS shaft is perpendicular to the bottom of the TMS bushing. The washer and nut is also quite massive.

That's why I suffer no noise or ill effects. The concern would be, are there enough forces to loosen the lock nut enough which will allow movement/noise? I don't disagree that filling out the cavity/tolerance is best.

[r4dr]

My ground control race plates came with sleeves to go from the 14mm Koni shaft to 16mm on their bearings. Maybe contact them and see if you can buy a set of the sleeves.

I just sent them a request via the form on their site, hope I hear back. I'm sick of machining custom parts to run some camber plates...

[r4dr]

For sleeving the bushing: you want part number 6679K18 from McMaster. 3 of them stack up *perfectly* per bushing to fill out the entire length, for a total of 6x. Keep in mind these are press-fit so you will be going on a one-way journey to 14mm.

My last piece of the puzzle is a washer for the bottom and top of the bushing. A 1/2" washer seems to spec out to 0.562" ID, which is ~14.27mm. I put an M14 washer on (15mm ID) and there was more play than I like.

[Tbonem3]

Nice find. Thanks for incidentally bringing my attention to this.

[cobra]

For sleeving the bushing: you want part number 6679K18 from McMaster. 3 of them stack up *perfectly* per bushing to fill out the entire length, for a total of 6x. Keep in mind these are press-fit so you will be going on a one-way journey to 14mm.

My last piece of the puzzle is a washer for the bottom and top of the bushing. A 1/2" washer seems to spec out to 0.562" ID, which is ~14.27mm. I put an M14 washer on (15mm ID) and there was more play than I like.

You can use 2 of them per side (one top and one bottom) to save $7. Pro tip!!


As a related side note - I am interested by the whole square shoulder vs tapered shoulder thing. Stock is tapered. Koni is tapered. KW is square. To me tapered seems stronger?