Need Help Being Lazy When Replacing Passenger Side Timing Chain Crush Washer

[heinzboehmer]

I think I have an oil leak coming from the crush washer on the bolt that holds the passenger side timing chain guide (the one that usually breaks). It's a cheap part, so I plan on replacing it before devoting more energy to finding the leak.

Has anyone replaced this without removing the valve cover? I'm trying to be as lazy as possible, but I also don't want to have to fish the chain guide out of my oil pan. I think the tension chain should hold everything in place, but I'm not completely sure it will.

Looks like the worst that could happen is that the tensioner pushes the guide slightly out of alignment until it hits the exhaust side sprocket. Shouldn't be crazy hard to wiggle back into place with a combination of less thread engagement on the chain tensioner and the bolt that holds it on.



So yeah, has anyone done it this way before?

[Slideways]

TIS says to remove the plastic duct, remove tensioner, replace sealing ring, compress tensioner (twice) until oil is drained out and install tensioner with new sealing ring. The chain shouldn't go anywhere with the cam sprockets in place.

[heinzboehmer]

Actually, I forgot that the bolt that holds it on tapers down. I'm pretty sure I can pull it out partially and then stick something in to make sure the guide doesn't fall down. Looks like there will be enough room to do that:




Think I'll try this before taking the valve cover off. If I do need to take it off, I'll just thread a bolt in to hold the tensioner. Pretty sure that I won't be dropping it into the oil pan with this plan. Will report back

[heinzboehmer]

TIS says to remove the plastic duct, remove tensioner, replace sealing ring, compress tensioner (twice) until oil is drained out and install tensioner with new sealing ring. The chain shouldn't go anywhere with the cam sprockets in place.

Ah but that's for the tensioner no? I want to replace the crush washer on the bolt that holds the guide. P/n 07119963342

[Slideways]

Ah but that's for the tensioner no? I want to replace the crush washer on the bolt that holds the guide. P/n 07119963342

You're right, misread that. Yeah, usually you hold the chain guide while installing the bolt. It might be possible to guide the chain guide back with the bolt since there isn't much space for the guide to move.

[heinzboehmer]

Okay cool. I'm decently convinced that I can spend more time being lazy than doing it the right way, so I'm gonna give it a shot. Worst case I'll just open the thing up.

[eacmen]

I think you should be able to do it. You might need to remove the tensioner and get your finger in there if the guide shifts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[heinzboehmer]

Great, I'm going to give it a shot. Plan is the following:

1. Loosen tensioner (so that I don't have to do this while barely holding on to a guide that's falling into the oil pan) 2. Loosen guide bolt and remove partly
3. Stick something in there (screwdriver etc.) to hold the guide in place
4. Replace crush washer
5. Reinstall guide bolt
6. Replace tensioner crush washer
7. Torque things

Need to wait for parts and go to Monterey car week events before attempting this, so it'll be a couple weeks before I do it. But I'll report back when I do

[heinzboehmer]

Ah, well turns out the leak is actually coming from the VANOS gasket (lower passenger side bolt). Guess I won't be attempting this after all and have to actually pull everything off. Fun

[tlow98]

Ah, well turns out the leak is actually coming from the VANOS gasket (lower passenger side bolt). Guess I won't be attempting this after all and have to actually pull everything off. Fun

I get the feeling a fully refreshed motor would have less leaks, wink wink.

but srsly, sry to hear this!

[eacmen]

Ah, well turns out the leak is actually coming from the VANOS gasket (lower passenger side bolt). Guess I won't be attempting this after all and have to actually pull everything off. Fun

Had the same exact leak even with fresh vanos gasket. A thin shmear of toyota fipg around that bolt hole solved it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[heinzboehmer]

I get the feeling a fully refreshed motor would have less leaks, wink wink.

but srsly, sry to hear this!

I like your thinking. Buut I just started my MK60 swap, so I really have to hold off on touching that other engine, otherwise nothing will ever get done lol

Had the same exact leak even with fresh vanos gasket. A thin shmear of toyota fipg around that bolt hole solved it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is actually my exact plan for solving this. Even have the tube of fipg in the garage and everything

Funny thing is that I did this last time I pulled the VANOS off (~10k mi ago), but I can't remember where I put the fipg. Must have only been on the top bolt hole since the bottom one is leaking now. Guess I'll see when I take things apart. Did you add the sealant on both the VANOS and head sides of the gasket?

[eacmen]

I like your thinking. Buut I just started my MK60 swap, so I really have to hold off on touching that other engine, otherwise nothing will ever get done lol




This is actually my exact plan for solving this. Even have the tube of fipg in the garage and everything

Funny thing is that I did this last time I pulled the VANOS off (~10k mi ago), but I can't remember where I put the fipg. Must have only been on the top bolt hole since the bottom one is leaking now. Guess I'll see when I take things apart. Did you add the sealant on both the VANOS and head sides of the gasket?

Just the head side. Since the ridge of the gasket faces the head.

Whatever you do don’t try and cinch it down tighter. That’s a recipe for doing a thread repair. Ask me how I know!

To be fair Its a tough application for gasket to seal. You have 1000ish psi of oil pressure and a helical gear pushing against the vanos away from the head. Im surprised it doesnt leak more often to be honest.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[heinzboehmer]

Just the head side. Since the ridge of the gasket faces the head.

Whatever you do don’t try and cinch it down tighter. That’s a recipe for doing a thread repair. Ask me how I know!

To be fair Its a tough application for gasket to seal. You have 1000ish psi of oil pressure and a helical gear pushing against the vanos away from the head. Im surprised it doesnt leak more often to be honest.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah thanks for the reminder. The upper passenger bolt felt weird last time I torqued it so I'm pretty sure I'm going to pull out the threads along with it when I remove it. Will order a timesert kit along with the gaskets.

[eacmen]

Ah thanks for the reminder. The upper passenger bolt felt weird last time I torqued it so I'm pretty sure I'm going to pull out the threads along with it when I remove it. Will order a timesert kit along with the gaskets.

I have the kit if you want to borrow it. Just DM me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk