Side Finisher Rubber Replacement and Rear Side Window Trim Replacement

[PSUEng]

Good result. I’d advise against trying to slide the seal past the riveted bracket. The bracket has sharp edges and could cut into the rubber

That looks good and similar to my result EXCEPT on mine, I ended with too much gap between the aluminum trim and the body. My passenger side is much tighter to the body and I'm sure the driver side (side I've done) originally fit much better. I repositioned the trim twice upon install--I can't for the life of me determine why I have this excessive gap. I may tear this all back apart and try again. Did you drill out the rivet, install the rubber, then re-attach the bracket? That is what I did, in that order. The rubber piece fits perfectly into the aluminum trim--add in this bracket drama, and I"m wondering if the rubber is not quite in the proper position in this area and it's pushing against the body causing this gap. Ugh...

These little details kill me. Here is what I'm referring to on my car:

[Maxima SE]

Got one side in. I'm not happy with the seal of the window. It seems to still have a couple small gaps where i can see light through. Any advice on getting the window to pull in tighter?

readjust the window where it screws in.

[jdamore44]

Got one side in. I'm not happy with the seal of the window. It seems to still have a couple small gaps where i can see light through. Any advice on getting the window to pull in tighter?

[T.J.]

Good result. I’d advise against trying to slide the seal past the riveted bracket. The bracket has sharp edges and could cut into the rubber

[Will]

Since there was some possible confusion about the foam gasket (51-71-7-037-260), here's some more info.

Dimensions: 2.5-3mm thick, 0.5" wide, 15.5-16" long (one measured 15.5" and the other measured 16").

Attached are some photos showing the foam (keeps the metal trim from touching your paint). This foam seems to be very similar to the rubber foam weather stripping used to seal windows and doors they sell at Home Depot, just different dimensions (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Ki...047977#overlay)

And if you don't stretch the rubber trim, not only will your screw holes not line up, but you'll be about 1" short.

[PSUEng]

It's optional. Goes between the metal trim and the body of the car. It should be fine to reuse. I'm replacing it because mine's a bit torn and bc of my OCD.

Edit: number 16 in realoem diagram shows you location.

The foam protects the paint on the car from the metal bracket and rivet. My foam was shot after I removed the bracket so I replaced it.

[d33p]

It's optional. Goes between the metal trim and the body of the car. It should be fine to reuse. I'm replacing it because mine's a bit torn and bc of my OCD.

Edit: number 16 in realoem diagram shows you location.

Thanks man, appreciate it

[Will]

Where does is foam piece go? I havent torn into mine yet so Im just wondering if it IS needed by all or an optional piece.

It's optional. Goes between the metal trim and the body of the car. It should be fine to reuse. I'm replacing it because mine's a bit torn and bc of my OCD.

Edit: number 16 in realoem diagram shows you location.
Edit 2: optional as in if your original foam gasket material is okay to reuse then you can reuse it.

[d33p]

Sure, I'll post some photos when I finally complete it. I just ordered those foam pieces (51717037260) and the dealer said it's coming from Germany, so 10 days to 4 weeks. Parts guy said it's coming VOR (vehicle off road) so that might speed it up a bit.

Maybe others who's completed this can update with some photos of their results, too.

Where does is foam piece go? I havent torn into mine yet so Im just wondering if it IS needed by all or an optional piece.

[PSUEng]

Sure, I'll post some photos when I finally complete it. I just ordered those foam pieces (51717037260) and the dealer said it's coming from Germany, so 10 days to 4 weeks. Parts guy said it's coming VOR (vehicle off road) so that might speed it up a bit.

Maybe others who's completed this can update with some photos of their results, too.

I ask because I want to compare to my results, posted previously. I may need to tear back into this--ugh.

[Will]

Excellent!! I'll try the lube method when I do the other side! Sometimes I just don't think of everything and doing the rivet thing really was a lot of extra time and jacking around, apparently unnecessarily.

And yes, need to tape up/protect the finisher; I used some rags, but the cardboard I had down still scuffed up the trim requiring a polish afterward. I have half a sense to tear the side apart I already did and re-do it this way and see if my fitment can be better; of course, I have put all new adhesive on the rubber.

Can you post a photo after you have this installed, of the new rubber piece at the Kink where it meets the glass and body?

Sure, I'll post some photos when I finally complete it. I just ordered those foam pieces (51717037260) and the dealer said it's coming from Germany, so 10 days to 4 weeks. Parts guy said it's coming VOR (vehicle off road) so that might speed it up a bit.

Maybe others who's completed this can update with some photos of their results, too.

[PSUEng]

Thanks for the tip on the lube. I was about to drill out the rivet and re-rivet the bracket - already got the Harbor Freight rivet gun as mentioned by others in this thread.

Lubing it up is essential. It's futile to try without it (that's why I got the rivet gun and was about to go down that route). I used some 303 and it took some tugging and pulling, but after a minute or two it was in.

For those who haven't tried it, it's fairly simple.

To remove the old rubber: pull from the B-pillar end and it'll release through the riveted bracket like you're unsheathing a sword.

To install: spray down the channel and the rubber trim, then feed it from the Hoffmeister kink towards the bracket. It took some forceful tugging and pushing, and some re-spraying with 303 (soapy water prob works better). I used a dry towel to help with getting a grip on the rubber trim. You'll see the part of the trim that is molded for the riveted bracket, ensure the corner of the bracket is fit into the corner of the trim, that the holes line up with the bracket, and also the end terminal of the trim is fit to the corner of the metal trim.

Wipe down the inside surface of the metal trim so the adhesive strip can do it's job properly.

Then starting from the kink-end of the trim, you'll want to pull / stretch toward the B-pillar to align the holes on the rubber with the screw holes in the trim... then remove the adhesive backing and press and hold. Work one section at a time to align the screw holes.

Done in a few minutes. Now I need to get the foam piece mentioned by PSUeng ( 51717037260) to replace my old and torn ones.


Edit: you might want to protect the finish of the metal trim piece with some painters tape.
Edit 2: plastic razor / scraper is helpful to remove the left over old adhesive from the metal trim.

Excellent!! I'll try the lube method when I do the other side! Sometimes I just don't think of everything and doing the rivet thing really was a lot of extra time and jacking around, apparently unnecessarily.

And yes, need to tape up/protect the finisher; I used some rags, but the cardboard I had down still scuffed up the trim requiring a polish afterward. I have half a sense to tear the side apart I already did and re-do it this way and see if my fitment can be better; of course, I have put all new adhesive on the rubber.

Can you post a photo after you have this installed, of the new rubber piece at the Kink where it meets the glass and body?

[Will]

okay I had no issues with the bracket/rivet? I used a little dish soap to lube it and it slipped right in? Took 10 seconds tops?

Thanks for the tip on the lube. I was about to drill out the rivet and re-rivet the bracket - already got the Harbor Freight rivet gun as mentioned by others in this thread.

Lubing it up is essential. It's futile to try without it (that's why I got the rivet gun and was about to go down that route). I used some 303 and it took some tugging and pulling, but after a minute or two it was in.

For those who haven't tried it, it's fairly simple.

To remove the old rubber: pull from the B-pillar end and it'll release through the riveted bracket like you're unsheathing a sword.

To install: spray down the channel and the rubber trim, then feed it from the Hoffmeister kink towards the bracket. It took some forceful tugging and pushing, and some re-spraying with 303 (soapy water prob works better). I used a dry towel to help with getting a grip on the rubber trim. You'll see the part of the trim that is molded for the riveted bracket, ensure the corner of the bracket is fit into the corner of the trim, that the holes line up with the bracket, and also the end terminal of the trim is fit to the corner of the metal trim.

Wipe down the inside surface of the metal trim so the adhesive strip can do it's job properly.

Then starting from the kink-end of the trim, you'll want to pull / stretch toward the B-pillar to align the holes on the rubber with the screw holes in the trim... then remove the adhesive backing and press and hold. Work one section at a time to align the screw holes.

Done in a few minutes. Now I need to get the foam piece mentioned by PSUeng ( 51717037260) to replace my old and torn ones.


Edit: you might want to protect the finish of the metal trim piece with some painters tape.
Edit 2: plastic razor / scraper is helpful to remove the left over old adhesive from the metal trim.

[E46 M3]

okay I had no issues with the bracket/rivet? I used a little dish soap to lube it and it slipped right in? Took 10 seconds tops?

[E46 M3]

Alright so got the left side off, what's the easiest way to pull off the old rubber?

EDIT* nvm, I used my big boy strength and pulled it off.