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Side Finisher Rubber Replacement and Rear Side Window Trim Replacement

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  • throwinshapes
    replied
    I found a number of things out doing this replacement using the new OE style parts from Matas Navik (found in post #157)
    • Don't try to slide the whole piece in through the aluminum bracket area. It's too tight, even with lubricant, there's an easier way. Instead, take pliers and bend the corner up slightly on the rear end of the bracket. This will allow you to slide the new rubber in basically right where it needs to be. Definitely still use some sort of rubber safe lubricant. I've indicated below where to bend the aluminum, and where to align the rubber to that bent area prior to pushing it in to make it the easiest. You'll only need to slide it about an inch into its final place.
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    • I also found that my windows were very tight on this new rubber when closing. You'll want to slide the black finisher as far backwards as it will go while tightening the screws. Start with the screws in the most rearward section first. I was able to alleviate more compression on the rubber by removing the inner B-Pillar and loosening the two nuts that hold the rear window bracket on. The B-Pillar can be removed without removing the rear "door" cards. The "door" cards bend enough that you can access the plastic clips that hold the B-Pillar. There's play in the window mount, and I was able to slide the windows forward before re-tightening. The new rubber is still tight, but I'm hoping time closed will compress them into shape. I add a bit of grease too to help with friction as they closed.
    • If you are replacing the lower seal piece, mark the original height of the old seal with painters tape prior to removal. There's nothing to register the location of the seal since its simply adhered to the paint (esp. with a good cleaning of the old adhesive)
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    • 3M 03618 Adhesive remover worked great on the adhesive left over on the paint from the lower seal piece.
    • Protect your black finisher piece by laying a blanket on your work surface, or painters tape it. It's pretty easy to marr as you're fighting with the rubber.
    • Quite a bit of stretch is needed to get the bolt hole lined up through the new rubber. Remove a bit of adhesive protective tape at a time, adhere the rubber to the finisher, and keep repeating.​
    • Be careful removing the front door seal near the front of the car, there's a wire that is attached to the body, on both sides. I assume this is the antenna for the key fob?
    • The inner rear window seals are not L/R sided, they can be installed on either side. Just make sure the rubber faces outside, felt faces inside.
    • I've always had issues when the front windows down, where water on the roof would drip into the car. While the black finishers were off, I ran a bead of RTV black gasket maker down the existing ribbed seal along the back side of the finishers. The existing seals looked mashed down, so that was probably the root cause. Would be interesting if we could find a source for these too...
    Last edited by throwinshapes; 11-27-2023, 05:10 PM.

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  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Found the eBay listing and looks like they're available but now double the price. Also bmw jacked the price on the lower window rubber moulding underneath and they're $65 a side now! Bastards lol




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  • Maxima SE
    replied
    I would email Matt and see if he is still honoring the price

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  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Still available?

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  • Mush
    replied
    Originally posted by WOLFN8TR View Post

    See Post #157

    Group buy info

    Price: $130 USD for one set. $260 USD for two sets. shipped to USA
    Send paypal payment to: [email protected]
    Under the payment amount it will ask you what this is for and type:
    Group buy E46 Rear quarter weather stripping and include your name, full address including USA and phone number.
    I am late to this party. I need a set. Is the deal still going? šŸ™

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  • PSUEng
    replied
    Originally posted by gpoints View Post
    Cool, thanks. Out of curiosity, which method did you use?
    I drilled out the bracket rivet, installed the seal, re-riveted the bracket. Apparently the more difficult method.

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  • gpoints
    replied
    Cool, thanks. Out of curiosity, which method did you use?

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  • PSUEng
    replied
    Originally posted by gpoints View Post
    Stupid question: ok, so I’m about to install mine using the soapy water method. How/when do you pull off the adhesive tape covering once you get the seal shoved into the channel?
    I did it differently, but on the inner surface of the aluminum trim there is a hash mark that you use to align the B-pillar "end" of the seal to the trim in order to ensure proper fit at that location. That said, pull off the adhesive how you see fit while maintaining alignment to that mark.

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  • gpoints
    replied
    Stupid question: ok, so I’m about to install mine using the soapy water method. How/when do you pull off the adhesive tape covering once you get the seal shoved into the channel?

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  • freshprince2421
    replied
    Originally posted by Will View Post

    No prob. Hope to see you and your m3 around Irvine. It's a sea of Teslas, rare to see another e46.
    How times change... Irvine had to have been the E46 M3 capital when they came out!

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  • Edge10101
    replied
    Originally posted by lemoose View Post
    I somehow got two pairs of these so if anyone wants to buy a set that is already stateside- lmk.

    as for installation, that bracket is a real PITA. I had to not only use lube but pry the bracket up a bit to allow the rubber to slide through more easily- but i still had to bring out some plier to pull it through and marred it a bit. still happy with the result though
    If you still have the extra pair I'd love to grab them from you. I'm in Austin too.

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  • lemoose
    replied
    I somehow got two pairs of these so if anyone wants to buy a set that is already stateside- lmk.

    as for installation, that bracket is a real PITA. I had to not only use lube but pry the bracket up a bit to allow the rubber to slide through more easily- but i still had to bring out some plier to pull it through and marred it a bit. still happy with the result though

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  • PSUEng
    replied
    Originally posted by throwinshapes View Post
    Is there anything other than the small foam piece (51717037260​) under the "finisher" to replace? I have been annoyed by morning dew on the roof dripping down into my open window. I always assumed the finisher should be diverting this water?
    Not that I found when I took mine apart. There is, however, a very thin rubber gasket that is part of the aluminum trim that provides a sealing effect to the body; maybe yours is broken, or something in that particular area?

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  • throwinshapes
    replied
    Is there anything other than the small foam piece (51717037260​) under the "finisher" to replace? I have been annoyed by morning dew on the roof dripping down into my open window. I always assumed the finisher should be diverting this water?

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  • Z3 Coupe
    replied
    Just placed an order. Thanks for the info guys.


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