Side Finisher Rubber Replacement and Rear Side Window Trim Replacement

[PSUEng]

Thanks for the tip on the lube. I was about to drill out the rivet and re-rivet the bracket - already got the Harbor Freight rivet gun as mentioned by others in this thread.

Lubing it up is essential. It's futile to try without it (that's why I got the rivet gun and was about to go down that route). I used some 303 and it took some tugging and pulling, but after a minute or two it was in.

For those who haven't tried it, it's fairly simple.

To remove the old rubber: pull from the B-pillar end and it'll release through the riveted bracket like you're unsheathing a sword.

To install: spray down the channel and the rubber trim, then feed it from the Hoffmeister kink towards the bracket. It took some forceful tugging and pushing, and some re-spraying with 303 (soapy water prob works better). I used a dry towel to help with getting a grip on the rubber trim. You'll see the part of the trim that is molded for the riveted bracket, ensure the corner of the bracket is fit into the corner of the trim, that the holes line up with the bracket, and also the end terminal of the trim is fit to the corner of the metal trim.

Wipe down the inside surface of the metal trim so the adhesive strip can do it's job properly.

Then starting from the kink-end of the trim, you'll want to pull / stretch toward the B-pillar to align the holes on the rubber with the screw holes in the trim... then remove the adhesive backing and press and hold. Work one section at a time to align the screw holes.

Done in a few minutes. Now I need to get the foam piece mentioned by PSUeng ( 51717037260) to replace my old and torn ones.


Edit: you might want to protect the finish of the metal trim piece with some painters tape.
Edit 2: plastic razor / scraper is helpful to remove the left over old adhesive from the metal trim.

Excellent!! I'll try the lube method when I do the other side! Sometimes I just don't think of everything and doing the rivet thing really was a lot of extra time and jacking around, apparently unnecessarily.

And yes, need to tape up/protect the finisher; I used some rags, but the cardboard I had down still scuffed up the trim requiring a polish afterward. I have half a sense to tear the side apart I already did and re-do it this way and see if my fitment can be better; of course, I have put all new adhesive on the rubber.

Can you post a photo after you have this installed, of the new rubber piece at the Kink where it meets the glass and body?

[Will]

okay I had no issues with the bracket/rivet? I used a little dish soap to lube it and it slipped right in? Took 10 seconds tops?

Thanks for the tip on the lube. I was about to drill out the rivet and re-rivet the bracket - already got the Harbor Freight rivet gun as mentioned by others in this thread.

Lubing it up is essential. It's futile to try without it (that's why I got the rivet gun and was about to go down that route). I used some 303 and it took some tugging and pulling, but after a minute or two it was in.

For those who haven't tried it, it's fairly simple.

To remove the old rubber: pull from the B-pillar end and it'll release through the riveted bracket like you're unsheathing a sword.

To install: spray down the channel and the rubber trim, then feed it from the Hoffmeister kink towards the bracket. It took some forceful tugging and pushing, and some re-spraying with 303 (soapy water prob works better). I used a dry towel to help with getting a grip on the rubber trim. You'll see the part of the trim that is molded for the riveted bracket, ensure the corner of the bracket is fit into the corner of the trim, that the holes line up with the bracket, and also the end terminal of the trim is fit to the corner of the metal trim.

Wipe down the inside surface of the metal trim so the adhesive strip can do it's job properly.

Then starting from the kink-end of the trim, you'll want to pull / stretch toward the B-pillar to align the holes on the rubber with the screw holes in the trim... then remove the adhesive backing and press and hold. Work one section at a time to align the screw holes.

Done in a few minutes. Now I need to get the foam piece mentioned by PSUeng ( 51717037260) to replace my old and torn ones.


Edit: you might want to protect the finish of the metal trim piece with some painters tape.
Edit 2: plastic razor / scraper is helpful to remove the left over old adhesive from the metal trim.

[E46 M3]

okay I had no issues with the bracket/rivet? I used a little dish soap to lube it and it slipped right in? Took 10 seconds tops?

[E46 M3]

Alright so got the left side off, what's the easiest way to pull off the old rubber?

EDIT* nvm, I used my big boy strength and pulled it off.

[Maxima SE]

someone should post a link to this on E46fanatics I guess? forgot my login info

[anemteanu]

This one post made me join this forum, got a 330ci last year and have been watching the price of of the trim piece clime over the years. Going to order a set of these and just paint my trim black. Luckily the lower trim pieces are not so expensive.

[SQ13]

I’ll have to suck it up and get it done in this heat within a week or so. Will try to make a DIY if successful.

[Tbonem3]

I'l be waiting till after summer. Plenty of time for some of you to gift us with a pictoral guide.

[9kracing]

It would be amazing if someone that installed these took pics and posted a writeup of how they did it for the rest of us slobs

[PSUEng]

NO NEED TO REMOVE RIVET AND THE BRACKET ! JUST PULL OLD RUBBER OUT, SPRAY WD-40 AND SLIDE NEW STRIP IN.

I'll try that method when I do the other side. The side I did do, there was no way the new rubber was going in there as far as I could see; but, I'll give your method a try.

[E46 M3]

Mine "arrived" today but post office has lost it lmao just my luck, hopefully it turns up tomorrow.

[mthird]

NO NEED TO REMOVE RIVET AND THE BRACKET ! JUST PULL OLD RUBBER OUT, SPRAY WD-40 AND SLIDE NEW STRIP IN.

[PSUEng]

This is exactly how I feel.

Well you just drill out the rivet. I bought a Quinn rivet gun and rivet pack from harbor freight--1/8" Aluminum rivet back in, no problem. The issue is, seating the bracket. That bracket allows the finisher to attach to the body. Anyway, it's not THAT bad, it's just finicky. Make sure you line up your new seal to the tick mark in the trim finisher and stretch it to fit; hotter is better. And put a new foam seal over the riveted area to keep your paint from getting scraped by the bracket upon reassembly.

[Mayan-Viking]

Still scared to install mine bc of this rivet issue. And it’s like 105° here 😭

This is exactly how I feel.

[nachizl8]

Got it thanks