Header DIY tips

[Bostonbruck]

I am attempting my first removal and install of euro headers and would like to know if you have any tips or tricks. I remember reading on the m3forum that there were a few special tools that make the job a lot easier. I will be watching the videos and doing more research but any links or any information will help me a lot. Thanks

[see.m3.go]

A swivel socket and nice tilting head ratchet could come in handy for getting all the original header bolts off. Some are a bit tucked under the pipes.
A drag link socket to remove/replace the CPV o-rings, if you are doing that while the headers are off.
Not really any other tools I can think of besides that

[COVID-19]

I found it easier to get all the nuts/bolts in before tighten everything.

[mrgizmo04]

The coolant pipe will keep leaking, so plug it.

You will need to mark the o2 sensors, a lot of guys come to the forum saying the car doesnt run right after header job, everyone tells them to make sure the o2 sensors are in the right spot.

You might pull out a few studs, dont worry.

I found it easier to get a lot of the header nuts from the bottom with an 11mm open/box end wrench. Fishing blind due to how you have to position your hands between the headers.

Remember to replace the CPV oring since you will have access to it.

Here is a good diy link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/19Fp...w?usp=drivesdk

[Bostonbruck]

Thanks for suggestions so far. I do have a Cpv o ring waitin for install.

[Slideways]

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nifold/APSG0HH

[Obioban]

Swivel socket is really the key to making this easy, imo.

[jbfrancis3]

Swivel socket is a good suggestion and few different lengths of extensions. The nut size is 11mm as @mrgizmo04 alluded to so ensure you've got those size sockets

[Tbonem3]

I like having an offset box end wrench in addition to 3/8" drive socket/swivel stuff. The exact tools I use varies depending on the headers as certain access is available or not depending on pipe style and cats or no cats. So it's good to have lots of 11mm tools and extensions. You can hit certain areas with penetrant depending on locale or if you see lots of orange. Especially the sect 1 connection bolts/nuts and O2s. I just mark pre1 and pre2 on some tape and stick it around the 02 wires before removal. You can't mess up the O2s at the harnesses as they're shape/color specific, but you can plug into wrong bung(s) in the headers.

SAP and one little bolt for top heatshield are 10mm and there are a few 13mm bolts in heatshield as well iirc. Bottom heatshield has 3 10mm "witch's hats." Sect 1 iconal bolts are 12mmEtorx with 15mm nuts. 3/8" drive "crow's foot" (22mm or 7/8th) is great for O2s or 22mm 7/8" open end wrench once off the car or if there's room.

For coolant pipes, local hardware store should have neoprene or cork plugs. Can't remember exact diameters sorry, but I'd guess 1/2" or 5/8" tapering up to an inch should be good (buy 2).

[mrgizmo04]

For O2 sensors at harness - precat2 is same shape as postcat1, so still mark all 8 ends where they come from (assuming your car was running properly before ).

[Tbonem3]

But the harness is longer which is a clue you can use 😋

_


Pre cat connections at the back of the head. Post cat ones run along the head on exh side.

[mrgizmo04]

But the harness is longer which is a clue you can use 😋

_


Pre cat connections at the back of the head. Post cat ones run along the head on exh side.

Yep, more pointers for op and others.

[DJAM3]

1/4 inch drive flex head ratchet, wobble socket extensions, and swivel socket. I was able to get all the header bolts from the top.

[Phoenix///M3]

Picket these sets up prior to my header install. Very useful


Astro Pneumatic Tool 7412 12-Piece 1/4" Drive Flex Socket Set - 6 Point - Metric

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


TEKTON 1/4-Inch and 3/8-Inch Drive Star Socket Set, Cr-V, E4-E18, 10-Sockets | 1355

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Also, Amazon was the cheapest source for Bosch O2 sensors when I did mine.

[stash1]

It's not necessary, and it's just a little bit more work, but removing the motor mount sure does make getting to things from below much easier.