Header DIY tips

[Slideways]

The good ol' 1/4in drive with a short wobble extension made it easy to get to all of the nuts from the top. Soaked in PB blaster to not remove the studs with the nuts and copper anti-seize, per TIS, to make disassembly simple later on, if needed.

[Halftim3]

I've done 2 header installs about 8 years ago on mine and a buddies s54 and from what I remember as others have mentioned,
1. The coolant pipe will leak so plug it, a rubber band and a glove would probably work.
2. Bring a permanent marker under the car with you to mark/label the O2 sensors, put the sensors back exactly where they came from, your next post should be a good review instead of, why is it not running properly?

[HDdave]

The good ol' 1/4in drive with a short wobble extension made it easy to get to all of the nuts from the top. Soaked in PB blaster to not remove the studs with the nuts and copper anti-seize, per TIS, to make disassembly simple later on, if needed.

Yep... 1/4" drive, a wobble extension, and a few J's (medicinal of course) for the patience.. Did the trick for me.

[Dafoe]

My favorite job! It's so rewarding when you first drive the car.

Some things I use for these jogs...

• PB Blaster! Soak all fasteners first!
• Wine cork for the hard coolant line
• Rubber Glove to tie off the coolant tank
• 1/4 snapon cordless ratchet (or similar small ratchet)
• 1/4 11mm swivel socket
• VERY good set of wrenches for the rear part of section one... those fasteners will be RUSTED LIKE HELL! When they round off, I use this tool which holds them without rounding. Usually it's forward fasteners that will round off https://shop.snapon.com/product/Plie...er-Wrench/PWZ1
• Use colored tape, or something to mark the O2 sensor wires up top before you unplug them from each other.
• O2 sensor socket and 1/2 breaker bar, just in case they're seized.

[Bostonbruck]

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. I bought almost all of the tools you guys have recommended, and I have been making good progress during these past few days. I have only 3 bolts left on the OEM headers until I can remove them, and I’ve got them all out from up top.

No broken studs yet, however some did come out. Debating on replacing all the studs or just the ones that came out?

Looking forward to getting this completed.

[SandeepM3]

Get a small self ratcheting wrench. Cant really be used on the oem header because of the lip,but on the aftermarkets it makes it 100 times easier to do the nuts.

[Bostonbruck]

I am halfway through the install. My section 1 flange ended up breaking (it was already cracked) so I ordered another one. (oem for now)

The bolts from the section 2 to section 1 are so rusted and rounded off I cannot remove them. Does anyone have tips for getting the rusted/rounded bolts off in this tight area? Thanks

[Bostonbruck]

My favorite job! It's so rewarding when you first drive the car.[*]VERY good set of wrenches for the rear part of section one... those fasteners will be RUSTED LIKE HELL! When they round off, I use this tool which holds them without rounding. Usually it's forward fasteners that will round off https://shop.snapon.com/product/Plie...er-Wrench/PWZ1[/LIST]

Ordering that tool to hopefully help me get the bolts off....

[Drlph25]

Vice grips work in a pinch too, usually what I use. Although I will be ordering that tool listed above, it looks like it'd be great to have around for issues like this. Probably easier to finagle than vice grips

[F1Dryvr]

Immensely easier to get to the nuts with the motor mount removed. Not just the rubber mount but the whole silver part that mounts to the engine. Also easier to pull the headers out this way. Use high temp nickel anti sieze on the o2 sensor threads when u reinstall.

[LukesM]

Bumping this thread since I’m wondering if I need to remove section 1 in order to get the headers out?

I have headers completely unbolted but can’t seem to get them out with section 1 in place.

I didn’t buy gaskets for section 1 to 2 so trying to avoid unbolting if possible. Worst case I’ll unbolt and replace hardware and gaskets.

[Bostonbruck]

Bumping this thread since I’m wondering if I need to remove section 1 in order to get the headers out?

I have headers completely unbolted but can’t seem to get them out with section 1 in place.

I didn’t buy gaskets for section 1 to 2 so trying to avoid unbolting if possible. Worst case I’ll unbolt and replace hardware and gaskets.

What I did was remove the section 1-2 together, by removing the bolts from the section 2 and 3. You’ll want to remove the driver rear wheel. Also take off several bolts from the 2 small reinforcement plates under the car. The section 3 gasket and hardware is borderline reusable, depending on the condition. I did this because my section 1-2 bolts were so rusted and stripped, and I couldn’t reach a grinder up there.

[LukesM]

What I did was remove the section 1-2 together, by removing the bolts from the section 2 and 3. You’ll want to remove the driver rear wheel. Also take off several bolts from the 2 small reinforcement plates under the car. The section 3 gasket and hardware is borderline reusable, depending on the condition. I did this because my section 1-2 bolts were so rusted and stripped, and I couldn’t reach a grinder up there.

Good call. Thanks for the info. I bet I would have spent 30 mins trying to get the section 1 to 2 bolts off.

I’ll just pull 1 and 2 together and replace hardware. My car is rust free. No rust anywhere except the bolts that hold 1 to 2. They must be made of junk steel.

[nogoodname]

Got all from the top except for one with a 1/4” snap-on swivel socket. 11mm or 7/16”

[Bostonbruck]

Good call. Thanks for the info. I bet I would have spent 30 mins trying to get the section 1 to 2 bolts off.

I’ll just pull 1 and 2 together and replace hardware. My car is rust free. No rust anywhere except the bolts that hold 1 to 2. They must be made of junk steel.

No problem. My 1-2 bolts were so rusted they didn’t even look like bolts. I had to use an angle grinder, once the exhaust was off, to cut the bolts. I only did this cause I had to replace the section 1 (the flange cracked off)