E46 M3 Best Subframe Reinforcement Kit?

[Bry5on]

VinceSE2 I’ve been digging to find the best solution for a touring, as there appear to be studs for the trunk floor that interfere with the simplified version. Do you recommend the stealth version for touring owners?

thanks

[VinceSE2]

VinceSE2 I’ve been digging to find the best solution for a touring, as there appear to be studs for the trunk floor that interfere with the simplified version. Do you recommend the stealth version for touring owners?

thanks

The simplified design actually works great with the Touring. Please see these installation videos. The installation was performed on a Touring, a 2000 Alina B3

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLg2TArrteKd5f9bHfkogf2PDXswy7qyl6

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bry5on]

The simplified design actually works great with the Touring. Please see these installation videos. The installation was performed on a Touring, a 2000 Alina B3

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL...gf2PDXswy7qyl6


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those were the videos that had me concerned, as there doesn’t look like enough room around the stud to allow the trunk trim to sit back down in its usual place. Have you reinstalled trunk trim after a simplified car install? Thanks again

[Cephyr13]

I don’t have a website yet. For now the Facebook page www.Facebook.com/pprndnews is what I can offer. Certain not ideal, but it’s a time and priority issue as I need to focus on building kits.

Anyway, the cracks would need to be covered by the VinceSkinz, any larger cracks would need to be welded.
You are welcome to send me pictures at Vincent@practicalperformance.se and I’ll take a look at them.

Vince


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, I didn't see that I had more replies to my thread until just now.

I have no cracks and no problems with my subframe. I thought I did, but it turned out to be a different issue entirely.

However, I still want to do a topside reinforcement bar.

[Cephyr13]

Do all topside reinforcement bars require the subframe to be dropped? I really don't want to drop it unless absolutely necessary.

[nahvkolaj]

Do all topside reinforcement bars require the subframe to be dropped? I really don't want to drop it unless absolutely necessary.

Unless you’ve had the subframe recently dropped and the RACP inspected, you cannot be sure there is no cracking. On my car, the forward right mount had cracking that was completely concealed by the subframe and bushing.

[VinceSE2]

Sorry, I didn't see that I had more replies to my thread until just now.

I have no cracks and no problems with my subframe. I thought I did, but it turned out to be a different issue entirely.

However, I still want to do a topside reinforcement bar.

As many others have also said, it is very difficult (and in some cases impossible) to find and identify cracks, popped spot welds and some panel separations without removing the subframe/rear axle assembly (and ideally the gas tank) and thoroughly cleaning the underside of the RACP.

And even then you need to know where to llok for damage. It’s NOT necessarily in the direct vicinity of the subframe bolt/stud.

These videos will help you understand the underlying issue/design flaw and how to properly address it:

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLg2TArrteKd4ttsu_Nr1SznnEw9N81cN7

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[VinceSE2]

Do all topside reinforcement bars require the subframe to be dropped? I really don't want to drop it unless absolutely necessary.

Well, if you are to address the top of the front mounts with a through bolt solution (which I strongly argue you should), the factory front studs need to come out. And to do so the subframe needs to come down at least approximately 3 inches.

I explain why and how to do that in this video (please note that I recommend to completely remove the subframe and clean and inspect/repair as mentioned in the response above):

https://youtu.be/9LZZCsGlC5E

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[VinceSE2]

Well, if you are to address the top of the front mounts with a through bolt solution (which I strongly argue you should), the factory front studs need to come out. And to do so the subframe needs to come down at least approximately 3 inches.

I explain why and how to do that in this video (please note that I recommend to completely remove the subframe and clean and inspect/repair as mentioned in the response above):

https://youtu.be/9LZZCsGlC5E

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh, and here’s why you need to address the top side of the front mounts:

https://youtu.be/ODdpiH5w4FU

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ace280]

I installed the original weld-in Vince bar and Readish plates and agree that both the top and the bottom need to be addressed. I also had cracks in the front mounts I did not know it until I started the repair. I really like the Vince Bar design.

[Obioban]

Because of products existing over time, I'm running a hodge podge :P

New floor, because my original was beyond recovery.
TMS plates
BMW foam
Vince bar and front gusset cups