Different Strut Clearance Between Driver Side and Passenger Side

[Heirforce1]

Hey guys,

I ran into this issue in the middle of the season and didn't have enough time to take everything apart to diagnose and before I start the winter tear down I wanted to see if anyone could shed some light on an issue I am having.

I currently have different clearance between the strut and the inner lip of the rim/tire on the inside. Currently running KW CS and was recommended by APEX to run a 5mm spacer to clear the KW strut. When I put the 5mm on, my driver side cleared but the passenger side still rubbed the strut. I ended up running a 12mm so both sides clear, but now the driver side has about 1/8" more clearance than the passenger side.

My mechanic spent some time and measured some of the suspension geometry points and everything checks out. I even changed both my front bearings in the event that different ones were used but I have the same results. I also don't know which side has the correct geometry. My guess is that the driver side is correct because it was the side that cleared with the smaller spacer.

I'm thinking it could be a LCA, or even the carrier being bent for some reason, but I have no concrete signs or clues to point to one part or another. I bought the KW CS used from a low mileage car where the owner tracked the car a handful of times, and were in good condition at the time of installation.

If anyone has any insight before I tear it apart and it would be greatly appreciated.

[bigjae46]

Are the caster and camber specs the same left to right? Could be a bent kingpin/front steering knuckle.

[Heirforce1]

Are the caster and camber specs the same left to right? Could be a bent kingpin/front steering knuckle.

Going to check my most recent print out and report back. If you suspect that is the culprit, better I change both?

[bigjae46]

Going to check my most recent print out and report back. If you suspect that is the culprit, better I change both?

Just the side that is off.

[George Hill]

Distance from the rim to the strut housing should be constant no matter the LCA or alignment specs.

The only variable I can think of would be the bearing/hub but you've ruled that out. I would suspect a bent strut and at worse a bent knuckle.

[eacmen]

history of accidents? Any signs of strut tower repair?

Personally 12mm is the min spacer depth I would ever use. Any less than 12mm and they aren’t hub centric. 5mm spacer will still use the car’s hub lip.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cobra]

Distance from the rim to the strut housing should be constant no matter the LCA or alignment specs.

The only variable I can think of would be the bearing/hub but you've ruled that out. I would suspect a bent strut and at worse a bent knuckle.

This.

A bent strut would be easy to see. A bent knuckle would be hard to do but also possible.

Honestly if your alignment is good and there is only 1/8" difference at the tire then is it worth tracking down?

[Tbonem3]

history of accidents? Any signs of strut tower repair?

Personally 12mm is the min spacer depth I would ever use. Any less than 12mm and they aren’t hub centric. 5mm spacer will still use the car’s hub lip.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

5mm is absolutely fine, and plenty of hub is left if you have aftermarket wheels with smaller, (or no) hub camfer.

Keep in mind, the lugs are doing the heavy lifting. The lip is for concentricity believe.

[Tbonem3]

This.

A bent strut would be easy to see. A bent knuckle would be hard to do but also possible.

Honestly if your alignment is good and there is only 1/8" difference at the tire then is it worth tracking down?

I doubt he'll be able to find anything wrong. Plenty of threads of others asking about wheel/tire fitment being slightly off side to side.

[eacmen]

5mm is absolutely fine, and plenty of hub is left if you have aftermarket wheels with smaller, (or no) hub camfer.

Keep in mind, the lugs are doing the heavy lifting. The lip is for concentricity believe.

Agree if you’re careful with all your tire changes they can be safe. But IMO its easier to improperly install a 5mm spacer, especially at places like tire shops etc.

Harder to do the paper test with smaller spacers. Has to be done on the car. Thicker spacers can be done with the wheel on the ground.

Paper test: https://youtu.be/lK0bzjInqWU


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Heirforce1]

history of accidents? Any signs of strut tower repair?

Personally 12mm is the min spacer depth I would ever use. Any less than 12mm and they aren’t hub centric. 5mm spacer will still use the car’s hub lip.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No accidents in my ownership, or in the vehicle's history. That's the reason I ended up with using the 12 is because of the hubcentric factor. When I used the 5mm, I also installed turner hub extenders. My plan was to run the 5 with the extender if both sides cleared, but unfortunately only one did.

[Heirforce1]

This.

A bent strut would be easy to see. A bent knuckle would be hard to do but also possible.

Honestly if your alignment is good and there is only 1/8" difference at the tire then is it worth tracking down?

On the passenger side the fitment with the 12mm is good, but the driver side pokes a bit too far and touches the fender when I'm tracking, and I wouldn't mind decreasing the front track.

[Heirforce1]

I think the play is going to take out both struts and see if I can find any damage or evidence of them being bent/out of spec.

I was able to connect with someone local to be with hubs that I can pickup for a good deal so I may change the actual knuckles. Any idea if I can re use the bearings I just pressed in? They have like 1,000km since I installed them but if I have to replace them then so be it.

[eacmen]

I think the play is going to take out both struts and see if I can find any damage or evidence of them being bent/out of spec.

I was able to connect with someone local to be with hubs that I can pickup for a good deal so I may change the actual knuckles. Any idea if I can re use the bearings I just pressed in? They have like 1,000km since I installed them but if I have to replace them then so be it.

What I would recommend is using those knuckles to take known good measurements and compare them to your car before swapping the knuckles.

No need to fire the parts cannon unnecessarily.

Unless someone here has some measurements to share?

I find it hard to believe the knuckles would bend before the strut and control arms.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Heirforce1]

What I would recommend is using those knuckles to take known good measurements and compare them to your car before swapping the knuckles.

No need to fire the parts cannon unnecessarily.

Unless someone here has some measurements to share?

I find it hard to believe the knuckles would bend before the strut and control arms.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great idea! I will reach out to a few friend's who may be able to provide measurements, but if anyone has them available that would be greatly appreciated as well!

Hope KW doesn't give me too hard of a time replacing a single strut or two.