Different Strut Clearance Between Driver Side and Passenger Side

[bigjae46]

No accidents in my ownership, or in the vehicle's history. That's the reason I ended up with using the 12 is because of the hubcentric factor. When I used the 5mm, I also installed turner hub extenders. My plan was to run the 5 with the extender if both sides cleared, but unfortunately only one did.

I would recommend either a 3mm or 12mm spacer. Depending on the wheel and spacer, a 5mm spacer may result in minimal engagement between the lip and wheel. It might be OK but I don’t see the point in taking a risk of having wheel bolts break and worst case the wheel coming off.

I can think of 7 incidents of a car losing a wheel on track. ALL of them…BMW. I’ve also witnessed dozens of broken studs. My spare stash will prove it…I have none left from giving them to other people.

[George Hill]

I think the play is going to take out both struts and see if I can find any damage or evidence of them being bent/out of spec.

I was able to connect with someone local to be with hubs that I can pickup for a good deal so I may change the actual knuckles. Any idea if I can re use the bearings I just pressed in? They have like 1,000km since I installed them but if I have to replace them then so be it.

If you are putting in some sweat equity. Swap the struts side to side and see what happens with your wheel to strut gap... stays the same, knuckle... follows the strut... strut.

[Heirforce1]

If you are putting in some sweat equity. Swap the struts side to side and see what happens with your wheel to strut gap... stays the same, knuckle... follows the strut... strut.

Great idea! I'm going to hopefully start wrenching next week and report back. Appreciate the insight guys.

[mrgizmo04]

There is a concept in s2k world of subframe rigid collars.

The idea is that if there is (and there is) some spacing between the bolt and the wall of the bolt hole, without the collars, the subframe is friction fit onto the chassis (basically pinched on and sandwiched with the head of the bolt to the chassis) and can move about. People report tire poke issues on one side and having to redo alignments. The collars "allegedly fix" the issue.

The collars fit in between the chassis and the subframe and take up some slack between the wall of the bolt hole and the bolt itself. (Similar-ish concept to vanos oil pump holes/hub slack).

Our subframe is sandwiched between the bolt head and chassis. Same could be at play here, although I've never dug into it or measured anything, not sure if anyone else has.

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[George Hill]

The idea is that if there is (and there is) some spacing between the bolt and the wall of the bolt hole, without the collars, the subframe is friction fit onto the chassis (basically pinched on and sandwiched with the head of the bolt to the chassis) and can move about. People report tire poke issues on one side and having to redo alignments. The collars "allegedly fix" the issue.

Our front subframes are doweled already. Even then that wouldn't change the issue here as there is a mechanical difference in the distance between the wheel and strut that is unaffected by the subframe location.

[mrgizmo04]

Our front subframes are doweled already. Even then that wouldn't change the issue here as there is a mechanical difference in the distance between the wheel and strut that is unaffected by the subframe location.

Yes not this specific case, but this is the latest thread with different side poke topic that I remembered.

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[Heirforce1]

Wanted to give everyone an update as I have finally traced the cause of my issues.

After taking apart everything, I laid the shock on the floor and noticed that the shock body had been damaged and was bent. While the bend was minor on the bottom, since it happened so low the angle of of the bend was significant by the time you lined up the wheel and shock.

I ordered a new strut and it should be here in a couple of weeks and I will button everything up once again and will do a final confirmation of the solution.

Thank you for everyone's insight!

[Heirforce1]

I would recommend either a 3mm or 12mm spacer. Depending on the wheel and spacer, a 5mm spacer may result in minimal engagement between the lip and wheel. It might be OK but I don’t see the point in taking a risk of having wheel bolts break and worst case the wheel coming off.

I can think of 7 incidents of a car losing a wheel on track. ALL of them…BMW. I’ve also witnessed dozens of broken studs. My spare stash will prove it…I have none left from giving them to other people.

Also a fear of mine. I am running a 5mm spacer, but I bought the turner hub extenders to eliminate this issue. I wouldn't dream of running the 5mm without using the hub extender.

[Tbonem3]

Depends on the wheel's inner bore's chamfer. Stock has a fairly large chamfer, and putting a stock wheel on only 5-6mm of hub lip is iffy indeed. However, many aftermarket wheels like apex, for example, have a much smaller chamfer so more bore is able to sit on the hub lip so that 5-6mm of available hub lip is plenty.