Was doing a oil change and put back the engine drain bolt back in, and it kept spinning. I took it back out and on the threads I saw metal. So do I need a new oil pan?
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Stripped engine oi pan
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I had the rod bearings replaced in my 2002 M3 two years ago by a reputable shop in the E46 M3 world. Last year, when I went to change the oil myself, I noticed that I could not torque the drain bolt down. It would hold the oil just fine, but the bolt itself would just spin. I figured the threads may be shot and need to be2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal
2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal
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Anyone have a good recommendation for a time sert kit?
This is drain bolt I used.
Last edited by M3powerzz; 03-05-2023, 01:37 PM.
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Make sure you get the 9.2 mm length inserts if you're going the timesert route. The longer ones will stick too far into the pan and not allow all the oil to drain out.2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal
2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal
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If you just want to chase the existing threads, then get a M12 x 1.5 tap. However, a M12 x 1.5 timesert kit will include a drill bit and tap specifically for the timsert "sleeve" that is bigger than M12. To use the timesert, you'll need to drill out the original threads, tap the whole, and insert the "sleeve", which has M12 x 1.5 threads inside it.
In either case, flush a bunch of oil through the engine to clean up the filings on the inside of the pan. Since the filings will be aluminum, a magnetic plug won't pick them up.
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Keep hearing about this issue, just ordered one of these as a result, should come in handy for various things.
2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA
OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan
2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
Instagram
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Aside from the obvious, make sure you drill and tap into your oil pan as perpendicularly as possible. If your new threads are at an angle from that, the crush washer won’t seal properly.
Though if that does happen look into getting either larger crush washers or a “metal bonded sealing washer”.
Good luck!
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^ Yep!
Timesert also sells a cutter that you can use to cut the surface flat after the repair. I used the included guides when I did mine and still ended up with an insert that was slightly crooked. Was easy to clean it up with the tool though.
This tool reconditions the seat where the drain plug seals. If the hole was tapped in a slight angle this tool will square it up for a good seal to stop any leaks. You need kit 1215C M12x1.5 ,1212C M12x1.25 ,1217C M12x1.75 or the 1/2-20 TS-0122A driver tool for your appropriate repair to use this
2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal
2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal
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