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Karbonius at 140k?

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  • ///M3_MD
    replied
    Originally posted by Sprp85 View Post

    Noticed the MD tag thus my question:

    Any emission readiness issue in Maryland with the airbox?
    And since you have mentioned Kassel, I presume you went MAP route?

    Thanks!
    Sorry for the late reply, I've got the car registered in one of the few counties that doesn't require emissions testing after the initial inspection. That being said, I've also got catless headers and no codes whatsoever. I went the MAP route for the airbox. I'm assuming I could pass an OBD2 test, would have to have a tech/mechanic with no sense of smell or common sense given the lack of cats.

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  • Nate047
    replied
    Originally posted by COVID-19 View Post
    I have the tool and I still have trouble with it lol
    Same... Maybe you guys can share the actual tool you have that is really easy to use, because mine is fine for cyl 1-4, 5 is a bit tough to catch and 6 took me forEVER because of the position.

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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    The bottom line clicked in with no issues and the length was fine, I saw on a DIY where one guy had to modify it and lengthen it.
    The shutoff line doesn't seem to want to positively "click in" as much I think I should. That could be from the connection on the shutoff valve line itself and not the box. I may dig my old shutoff back out of the basement and see if that clicks in better. Regardless the connection seems solid to me.
    Interesting. Neither of mine clicked in when I first installed it. I reused my shut off line so I know the issue is the airbox and not the line. I guess I do have to remove it and figure out the issue with the bottom line.

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    Do the connectors for the line that goes to the oil pan and the brake shut off line not clip in all the way on your airbox? I fixed my brake shut off valve by grinding it down a little and think I need to pull the airbox again to fix the bottom one.
    The bottom line clicked in with no issues and the length was fine, I saw on a DIY where one guy had to modify it and lengthen it.
    The shutoff line doesn't seem to want to positively "click in" as much I think I should. That could be from the connection on the shutoff valve line itself and not the box. I may dig my old shutoff back out of the basement and see if that clicks in better. Regardless the connection seems solid to me.

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    My Karb. box required some minor (about 2mm) removal of the metal "ring" at the end of the box that attaches to the snorkel.
    There is a notched out half circle that indexes over of the OE Snorkel actuator motor or position sensor, don't remember which.
    In any event I had to grind material away for the bolt holes to line up properly. That was a bit unnerving I must say! Taking a Dremel to a $2000 air box wasn't fun!
    Do the connectors for the line that goes to the oil pan and the brake shut off line not clip in all the way on your airbox? I fixed my brake shut off valve by grinding it down a little and think I need to pull the airbox again to fix the bottom one.

    Leave a comment:


  • x Spades x
    replied
    I have 193k... runs great

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  • COVID-19
    replied
    Not bad then. I always spect some kind of adjustment when dealing with any aftermarket parts.

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    I wasn't that bad really, especially when you consider everything else hooked up/lined up like I think a factory unit would. Just get ready to Dremel, I started hand filing but had to move up to the power tools or I'd still be there.

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  • COVID-19
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

    My Karb. box required some minor (about 2mm) removal of the metal "ring" at the end of the box that attaches to the snorkel.
    There is a notched out half circle that indexes over of the OE Snorkel actuator motor or position sensor, don't remember which.
    In any event I had to grind material away for the bolt holes to line up properly. That was a bit unnerving I must say! Taking a Dremel to a $2000 air box wasn't fun!
    Heard about another similar issue with their snorkel but thought it was on the older version. (Something about two holes not lining up even with the airbox off) Someone complaint to Karbonious and the only response was “sorry” lol. But hoping to not have issues once I get my snorkel.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    Originally posted by COVID-19 View Post

    Yup can’t go wrong with Karb. I haven’t received my snorkel so I can’t comment on fitment issues.
    My Karb. box required some minor (about 2mm) removal of the metal "ring" at the end of the box that attaches to the snorkel.
    There is a notched out half circle that indexes over of the OE Snorkel actuator motor or position sensor, don't remember which.
    In any event I had to grind material away for the bolt holes to line up properly. That was a bit unnerving I must say! Taking a Dremel to a $2000 air box wasn't fun!

    Leave a comment:


  • COVID-19
    replied
    I have the tool and I still have trouble with it lol

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  • Cubieman
    replied
    ^this

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  • terra
    replied
    I'm amazed at how many people have trouble with the clamps. Just get the right tool. I can have my airbox off in 20 minutes.

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  • bassel_sy
    replied
    Is it general consensus as well here to swap out the radiator hoses?

    Leave a comment:


  • COVID-19
    replied

    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

    HAHA dude.. I feel this. I had to replace the intake cam position sensor not too long ago. So the IM has to come off, and those fucking clamps ruined my life for like... Way longer than I'd like to admit.

    What's the hot ticket for aftermarket replacements?
    I got mine on amazon. I was going to get the ones from the e9x intake since some say they fit perfect. But a few of my friends had problems bc they barely catch (clamp had to be all the way open). I would just get a set for the tb side and oem on the manifold side since those usually don’t come off.


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