Loud thud when going into reverse SMG, strange clutch egements

[Nico]

First symptoms were when coming to a stop in second gear, about 5mph, the car would shake while I was lightly applying the brake while coasting. This was only at a really low speed, usually right before the car automatically switches to first. When idle, the car would take super long to shift into R (from N) and 1 (from N), about 3-4 flashes of gear before it finally engages. When the car was operating normally, usually there was always a little clunk sound when switching to 1 or R, and the gear indicator would only flash once or twice. This time, the clunk was much louder and more pronounced.

A couple days later, SMG COG. The car wouldn't engage 1st gear, instead, started in second gear. The car was drivable, and would not throw me into neutral or out of gear. When switching into reverse, the car feels like it is literally slamming into gear. It's loud, it's almost like an S6 shift but you're idle and you're just going into reverse.

I brought it to a shop and got the codes read, I was told it was low pressure. I was recommended the Burkhart SMG motor repair kit. Went ahead and did that, got everything bled, etc...

After the Burkhart replacement, the SMG pump now primes for 6 seconds instead of 9-10. The car now engages first gear, and doesn't make a loud clunk, it sounds pretty much normal. However, when the car is cold, occasionally, it will still slam in reverse. No hesitations when switching to first. When the car is warm, it doesn't hesitate or slam into reverse, it only happens sometimes. I haven't tried too many times, I'm just worried I could do more damage. Also, when almost completely stopped in first gear, it feels like the car wants to move forward at times. It literally feels as if I'm touching the gas pedal very lightly, you can feel the clutch engage but I'm not even touching any pedal. I was out for a drive and while sitting at a stoplight, I had my foot off the brake. When I tried to accelerate, the car literally revved up and didn't move at all. This does not happen when I have my foot on the brake before I accelerate.


I'm just curious if anybody else has had these issues before. I haven't driven the car much since I got it back, I cringe at the thought of the thing slamming into gear like that. At this point, I might just bring it to the dealer. Any ideas would be appreciated, I'm just reallllly hoping it's not the pump.

[oceansize]

A few of things come to mind:

1. Replacing the motor doesn't require a bleed (but if they did it as a just in case then fine)
2. More importantly did the shop run the SMG adaptation routines? If so did they complete successfully?
3. Don't go to a dealer, ever. They have long forgotten about these cars and don't have a clue about SMG.
4. Post your location so people can recommend specialists shops in your area.
5. Have you checked your diff bushings, the two in the diff cover and the front one?
6. Have you checked your center support for the driveshaft and flex disc (guibo, I don't think this could really cause the slamming but worth a shot).
7. This could be transmission related and not your hydraulics.
8. Have you checked your transmission mounts?
9. Check front diff bolt (also rear as well).

[Nico]

A few of things come to mind:

1. Replacing the motor doesn't require a bleed (but if they did it as a just in case then fine)
2. More importantly did the shop run the SMG adaptation routines? If so did they complete successfully?
3. Don't go to a dealer, ever. They have long forgotten about these cars and don't have a clue about SMG.
4. Post your location so people can recommend specialists shops in your area.
5. Have you checked your diff bushings, the two in the diff cover and the front one?
6. Have you checked your center support for the driveshaft and flex disc (guibo, I don't think this could really cause the slamming but worth a shot).
7. This could be transmission related and not your hydraulics.
8. Have you checked your transmission mounts?

I'm located in Chicago. I trust that they ran adaptation routines. I have to find another shop ASAP to check those things out - I'm not mechanically inclined to do any of that.

[oceansize]

I'm located in Chicago. I trust that they ran adaptation routines. I have to find another shop ASAP to check those things out - I'm not mechanically inclined to do any of that.

Post a new thread stating you are looking for a specialist shop in Chicago, you will get good advice on where to go and where not to go.

[oceansize]

Also:

9. Check front diff bolt.

[Nico]

Also:

9. Check front diff bolt.

Thanks man

[cudzich09]

Post a new thread stating you are looking for a specialist shop in Chicago, you will get good advice on where to go and where not to go.

Performance Eurowerks
(224) 676-0756

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Performance+Eurowerks/@42.1810877,-87.9385323,17z/data=!4m12!1m6!3m5!1s0x880fbdd5b9f59535:0xa5bb9f0ca90cce07!2sPerformance+Eurowerks!8m2!3d42.1810877!4d-87.9363436!3m4!1s0x880fbdd5b9f59535:0xa5bb9f0ca90cce07!8m2!3d42.1810877!4d-87.9363436

[antknee]

Also:

9. Check front diff bolt.

2nd. i bet this is it.

[Nico]

2nd. i bet this is it.

You think it would cause weird clutch engagements when almost idle as well?

[eacmen]

Also:

9. Check front diff bolt.

If it was the front diff bolt you would hear a clunking sound during load change. Many front diff bolts have been misdiagnosed as "M clunk".

If you have a go pro mount it under the car looking at the diff and watch what it does when you shift gears. Or get a buddy to look under the car while you're shifting in a parking lot. If the bolt backed out or bushing gone bad you should see some significant movement when engaging/disengaging the clutch.

My bet would be the adaptation procedure was not run or there may be a physical issue with the clutch (slave cyl, clutch wear, etc). I would start by bleeding the clutch slave (just because its an easy thing to do) and then doing an adaptation.

[Nico]

If it was the front diff bolt you would hear a clunking sound during load change. Many front diff bolts have been misdiagnosed as "M clunk".

If you have a go pro mount it under the car looking at the diff and watch what it does when you shift gears. Or get a buddy to look under the car while you're shifting in a parking lot. If the bolt backed out or bushing gone bad you should see some significant movement when engaging/disengaging the clutch.

My bet would be the adaptation procedure was not run or there may be a physical issue with the clutch (slave cyl, clutch wear, etc). I would start by bleeding the clutch slave (just because its an easy thing to do) and then doing an adaptation.

Drives fine under power. Have tested out redlining in second and 3rd a couple times in s6 and it’s fine. It’s only when driving really slow and when switching to R from N when cold

[oceansize]

Drives fine under power. Have tested out redlining in second and 3rd a couple times in s6 and it’s fine. It’s only when driving really slow and when switching to R from N when cold

How many miles on the car?

[Nico]

How many miles on the car?

170k on the chassis, engine has around 100k. Had to replace the whole engine at 155k, took a shit on me

[oceansize]

I'd take it the shop cudzich09 mentioned as I've seen them mentioned a bunch over the years but couldn't think of the name. Much better place to start than a dealer.

[Johnvu]

I had a similar loud clunking issue when downshifting at higher RPM and what felt like weird shuttering and chatter at low speed. It turned out the front poly diff bushing extruded itself onto the diff and out of the housing. I just replaced it with the upgraded design from revshift. The car no longer has these issues and drives very solid.

I would suggest two things:
1. Run the smg bleed and adaptation procedures again. I ran mine like 5 times after my relocation lol.
2. Check the front diff bolts and all diff bushings.

Good luck and hopefully this helps!